robert997

That looks amazing ! What a fantastic community he’s built-up. That must have been a really special experience, and probably a unique collection of Spyders? Starting to look like those PTS gatherings in the USA !

Thanks for sharing!

@fizzReally sorry to hear this, our worst nightmare with the M96, fingers crossed it’s repairable at a reasonable investment. The positive is that there is such a great community, lots of potential options for independent specialists etc, such a collective knowledge around the cars to hopefully provide some palatable options for getting back on the road.🤞

Just wanted to thank you all for your help with this. My Amazon rivet gun arrived yesterday (!) so this afternoon I was able to undo the door, remove the regulator, rivet the limit stop and refit it all. And it’s working perfectly for the first time since I bought the car!!

That butyl tape is great - i found the part number and discovered the ‘genuine Porsche’ version on eBay for £42 which looks identical to the amazon one.  The regulator from the OPC was £168.30 plus vat, or just under £202 with 10% discount - they wouldn’t stretch to 15% as my ‘Porsche Classic’ membership has yet to come through !

With such great advice you’ve saved me a fortune and I’ve learnt a great deal. I’ve also fixed my wobbly headlamp with a new tray, which was literally a 5 minute job, so have been able to address two inherent faults from purchase last year. 

22 minutes ago, iborguk said:

https://amzn.eu/d/j6tvrC9

Thanks - i was already there ordering it !!!! Unfortunately it doesn’t come until Friday, i checked Argos/b&q , screwfix etc. Love an excuse to buy a new tool…😉

7 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Copy the old one Robert; it is there, I can see it in your picture.

If the stop is not there, the glass is permitted to drop too low in the door and from experience, the glass will not come up but hit the frame. 

Customers have brought their Boxsters to me in the past where they have done exactly this.

You could use a small nut and bolt if you do not own a rivet gun.

That’s exactly what was happening - it was lowering too much and the glass was hitting the frame internally. I adjusted repeatedly the parameters i could - height, rake and fore/aft - until it worked reliably.

Does it fit on the bottom right bracket - at the foot of the L on the new regulator? 

Thanks @TROOPER88 - would appreciate some help ! I’ve not seen/read this before. Where/how does it fit, and how do i rivet without a rivet gun??

Is there any guidance available pls?

Glad I’ve asked before sealing it all back in the door !!

My mystery parts - a rubber bung, a rubber top-hat that looks like it fits the bung in a t-track like a roof-rack, and a pin that looks like a football inflator??

Any ideas??

The broken regulator - it does look original to me, Brose is also stickered to the motor. And the wiring plugs were a real challenge to remove..

The two regulators are subtly different. The new Porsche part is the lower one, i removed the upper (green) one, which interesting has a large R on the motor housing - making me wonder if it was for the Right door - this being the left / passenger door ??

The new Porsche one uses 10mm bolts instead of T30 fittings to bolt to the door frame. Shape and size of clamps different too - i used a paint pen to draw an outline on the glass before removing it from the old clamps, and the new ones line up but are a different shape !

I’ve no way of knowing if the one I’ve removed is genuine or aftermarket.

The new one also had this little bag stapled, with what looks like a rivet and two rubber pieces ? Obvs no instructions as its from the OPC… and no mention in Bentley or 101 projects, or any YT videos I’ve yet seen…

Fortunately it’s in and tested now. After what feels like hours of fractional adjustment of the clamps, fore/aft, each clamp height, and then bracket rake, the window finally opens and closes and fits the door, and fortunately drops adequately to allow the door to open ! Phew !

4 hours ago, ATM said:

 

The bottom is where it leaks.  If this is tightly sealed then leave it alone and pull down the top part.  If you can leave much of the bottom sealed and still do the job the do so.  If you must remove the whole membrane then yes you may need to cut but dont cut the mebrane.  Maybe this is what you meant.  I had to check.  Only cut the stuff sealing it.

 

Thanks - i managed exactly this after you’re advice - just peeling away the top and sides, and managed to leave the bottom edge completely sealed.

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I used this:

Westspark 13.1ft 4M 8mm Butyl Rubber Sealant Sound Deadening Rope Caulk Tape for Car RV Windshield Headlight Door Black : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

You can peel it off the roll and make it nice and thin.  It then sticks well but if necessary in future you can get under it with a plastic scraper to remove.  Make sure it is thin and pressed flat well, or you have trouble refitting the door card - ask me how I know!  You'll also have loads spare off a roll this size even after doing two membranes.

Thanks - ordered for delivery tomorrow !

Thanks v much. That’s exactly what i meant, peeling or cutting the glue not membrane.
 

After your comments on another thread i bought the Porsche regulator and have a very simian box in front of me now!

How did you reseal the membrane?

Having watched 5+ YT vids, bought 101 projects and Bentley manuals, and parts arriving at OPC, I have decided to brave my window regulator replacement !

I’m at the stage of removing the membrane inside the door. The door has been off before - the car had an ‘off’ in its history - some screws missing and trim clips broken. So far par for the course. But how best to remove and replace the membrane.

It looks and feels very well stuck down, which is needed for water proofing of course. Do i cut around the glue with a Stanley knife? And then what to buy to reseal?

I think I’ve read butyl tape mentioned, but should I be using some sort of mastic or glue??

Thanks for the tips !

I have finally polished my headlights with the 3m kit. After watching the videos on YouTube i plucked-up the courage, and am pleased with the result

However I did find it tricky to sand using a cordless drill, with little bit of damage to the paintwork where I didn’t mask enough. With hindsight, I would remove the headlights and sand on the bench.

So i dug out my dual-action polish for the final stage, which rattled this dead spider in the headlight - he was jumping all over the place with the vibration before settling back into the crease🙄

Finally I did pull out the headlight to investigate why my headlight and indicator intermittently stop working… With my new Bentley manual I could see that the rear of the bracket that houses the wiring connection is broken, half is missing, allowing the connector plug to move continuously. This is probably a legacy of the small ‘off’ the car had 10 years ago, according to the invoices… At least I now know I can order a new part and get it working properly again.

Now for the window regulator ! And as soon as the parts arrive, the cruise/obc upgrade.

I will shortly be removing the near-side rear calliper too, as the recent service at Zuffenhaus also left me with a sheared bleed nipple, so as per other threads here I’ll remove and send to BCS for repair…

Will keep me busy this bank holiday weekend !

2 hours ago, map said:

 

CAE Shifter is an option too

This is an amazing interior ! And shifter too !

13 hours ago, ½cwt said:

 

Either way on your opinions, however draining 90k mile 19 year old oil and replacing with new improved the change on my 6 speed 986 'box making 2nd much less baulky when cold.  Cable performance has nothing to do with the improvement when warming up, it is the oil in the 'box getting up to temp that improves everything, as it becomes warm it is more fluid in its correct operating temp range.  Cleaning and lubricating the cable ends and external linkages on the 'box also helps.

+1 - I just had my fluid replaced on my 2003 986S at my service 2 weeks ago and it has made a significant improvement to the shift quality. Going through the service records it had not been done before, and is a relatively cheap and easy upgrade.

Thanks all - yes window goes fully up and down perfectly, drops with the hood mechanism etc.

Appreciate the insight - i will swallow the cost of a new regulator. Have been meaning to register with Porsche Classic at the local OPC Solihull, so this will give the incentive to get over there.

Given the dreadful weather I’m fiddling with the car in the garage getting bits done, like sanding the headlights with my new 3m kit !

Something that’s bugged me since i bought the car in May is that the passenger window drops when lifting the handle, but not quite enough to clear the roof, so the door twangs open, and is difficult to shut. Drivers door is perfect.

IS there any way to adjust the drop? A way to reset the position?

Car is going to Zuffenhaus on Thursday for service/MOT so I have that as my back-up solution…

thanks