Nick_McUK

2 minutes ago, red rocket said:

I used ebay as a guide when i sold mine. As with everything prices on there fluctuate with supply and demand. They were relatively low when i moved mine on because there were several available but i've seen much higher prices at other times.  If you're not desperate try offering it for what you feel it's worth and see what happens. Take into account what after market exhausts cost for comparison.

Yeah I was thinking £350 with the new clamps. 
 

I don’t want to be greedy but equally I don’t want to do my self short

Yeah that’s what I though. It would be an ideal candidate to send off to Gertz to have converted to one of his GT exhausts. 
 

There don’t seem to be many for sale on eBay either. 
 

Might email Gertz at Carnewal and see if he wants to buy it!

Just recently put a brand new shiny Miltek Cat back system on my MY06 987.1 3.2S....its bedding in nicely and sounds absolutely lush!

This leads me to my question I have the old stock exhaust system now sat doing nothing...its the original one its done 92k miles but in cracking condition, no holes or big rust. the clamps are a bit skanky but I have all new genuine Porka ones.

What is it worth....ebay search really didnt turn up anything that helped....so asking here to you lot!

Not got any photos as of yet but its solid and in great condition just grubby!

2 hours ago, Davey P said:

Yes, I found that out, but a bit too late.... The paintwork has gone dull around the area where the badge was.  If I can't get a decent finish on it, I guess that will give me an excuse to have the whole car professionally machine polished, which I wanted to have done soon anyway 

The caramel wheel is still by far the quickest way though!

3 hours ago, entdgc said:

plus 1!

Not the best idea...from a safety perspective plus also it can damage the paint.

1 hour ago, Davey P said:

I finally made a start de-badging the boot lid this afternoon, and quickly realised what a pain it is to get the horrible glue off... I've not finished yet, the badge is off (and definitely staying off) and most of the glue residue has been removed, but the last bits are proving to be annoyingly stubborn!  I will go back to it tomorrow...

Caramel wheel in a drill...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Power-TEC-91488-Stripe-Disc-Shank/dp/B00ATPOH3C/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LNJVWMOEOKUT&dchild=1&keywords=caramel+wheel&qid=1588624984&sprefix=caramel+whee%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-1

51 minutes ago, Patrick1964 said:

Slightly less impressive than the diy paint above, but I thought some of you may be interested in the results of my Autoglym roof clean and re proof. It’s the first time it’s rained since I did the job and so far I’m quite impressed 

Looks great I want to do mine again with the Fabsil Gold again. 

5 minutes ago, EVO Chris said:

uh oh, you made a clean spot, you know what that means...…..

Well its not going anywhere so the whole car is getting detailed soon anyhow

So the wings have obviously been repainted on the front of my Boxster for the removal of stone chips etc, and i noticed the other day when I pulled it out of the garage for aquick wash that there was a cloudy patch coming through on the top of the N/S front wing, immediately i recognised this as the start of the lacquer failing. Chatted with my great longtime friend John at AE Coachworks and he confirmed it was the start of the lacquer failing and put it down to a crappy job being done in the first place. He talked me through the process on how to sand it back and spot repair it. He kindly mixed me some paint so I could get the job done.

Think the photos speak for themselves....

Really happy with the result, I have done a bit of proper spray painting before but only on wheels, so this was my very first time painting a car panel. Is it perfect well its got a few bits of crud in the paint and a bit of a run to sand out on the lower part of the wing at the bit where it meets the sill but other wise I am over the moon and it will be perfect once I have wet sanded and polished it up. Its also a bit of a personal goal to have now done paintwork on a car!

1 minute ago, phazed said:

 

Hi Graham. Ferry company says leave it till nearer the time and I think I will get a full refund from them.

Regarding the villa which is fully paid they are offering 85% back and I should be able to get the outstanding 15% as I booked it intentionally through my credit card rather than debit.

Watch this space!

Push them for 100% refund this is not like you are choosing to cancel its a global pandemic.

Seriously these companies need to get wise....dont take and cr*p and push for a full refund.

5 hours ago, Pinewood said:

Ha ha ha same as me.... But I was hacking away the thicket obscuring our view of the land behind our place. 

You do love trimming bushes haha

3 hours ago, detail1 said:

You need 24 hrs for the glue to fully cure, so thought it a good time to do whilst the doors can be left open in the garage overnight.

Yeah mine lives in the garage all year round so as you say ideal time!

2 hours ago, detail1 said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264163164957

It's quite a messy job so best to sheet up the door opening, it's not a perfect solution but far cheaper than new seals.

Any hints and tips to share?

1 hour ago, detail1 said:

Had a go at re-flocking the rubber window seals where they had worn back to the rubber over the years. Was worth a go at £20 or so. Would have probably turned out a lot smoother if I had flattened the whole lot- instead patch repairing. Once the window closes it looks more uniform.

 

I still need to do this....bought all the kit never did it though

40 minutes ago, detail1 said:

Generally the blue 3m tape is fine, most online detailing stores sell this or equivalent from other brands.

To be honest any masking tape will be fine I know of a couple of top detailers that just use the cream coloured tape like the body shops use.

21 minutes ago, entdgc said:

I fear you aren't sadly!

From what my wife is saying (and she works in healthcare - Hospital) everything is pointing towards this getting a lot worse and certainly not being over in 6 weeks.

We are in for an Italy/Spain type ride.....which is why its absolutely imperative that we all stay home and dont go out!

6 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Different thread please folks

He started it though sir  

I will agree to disagree on this one. In my experience the finish you get with a rotary is far superior, in terms of finish and clarity.

A RUPES or FLEX DA/Forced Rotation will get you a good finish but no where near the clarity.

When I say clarity I mean the naked cleansed finish once all polishing sets are completed and the panels have had wipe downs with panel wipe to remove every trace of polishing oils and fillers that might be present.

Also there is no way you can burnish and jewel a finish with a DA....

If you are doing serious paint correction then rotary is the only tool to use...if its a quick enhancement then 100% you cant beat the speed of a RUPES for that.

As I say I do have both so I am not anti DA but they deffo finish down to the same finish  

Just now, Mattman42 said:

I'm in the Rotary Club - oh, hang on, that sounds wrong

Hahahh what are you 82?  

Good to hear too many "pros" using RUPES....no way on earth do you get the finish you can with a rotary with a DA.

I mean I have both but I did our 528i with the Rotary and the finish is head and shoulders better over the RUPES.

True Pro's "mop it till is hot..."!!  

8 minutes ago, detail1 said:

The machine polishing part is down to experience and practice, been doing it 18 years now and comes as 2nd nature, but it makes up 95% of the finish. Let me have a think and see if I can put together some guides etc..

Ahhh but do you use a DA or Rotary.....thats the million dollar question?

Gave the Boxster a wash today as it passed its MOT yesterday. 
 

Then gave the BMW a wash too...

Stuttgart meets Munich....

1 hour ago, Jonners said:

31mpg is impressive! 

Real world calculated that will be about 25-26mpg  :P :D 

7 hours ago, Chrisbin said:

Was just wondering if anyone has some flocking experiences to share....

Not yet got the kit just not had time to do it😢

I the middle of laying a new floor in the kitchen. 😂

4 minutes ago, JHamshaw said:

Thanks - and having diodes to hand I can now save you some time....

Boxster 987.2 2009 Non-Xenon :

- Switched off "DRL" (which is actually just dipped beams and tail lights in non-xenon cars) in the on board computer

- Using a wiring diagram (from a Cayman, but hoping and subsequently proving it's largely the same) , tried the hack, but between the yellow/red and grey wires. The grey wire is the sidelight/position light circuit.

- LED sidelight bars and tail lights illuminate with the switch in the "Home" position, BUT the "lights on" warning sounds when the key is removed - correct behaviour for the sidelights but not the desired effect. I guess the foglights aren't connected to the warning beeper as they go off when the headlights are turned off in any case (normally), which is  probably one reason why the hack works......

- Reverted to the "standard" hack as described earlier in this thread which works fine 

Ho hum, now off to buy some LED fog bulbs of the lowest output/least focussed beam pattern I can find.....! 😉

These are similar to the ones I run in mine...look really good.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ralbay-Vision-Upgrade-Bright-1200LM/dp/B07G3TP92K/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=2pcs+H7+Projection+Fog+Light+LED+Bulb&qid=1564072732&s=gateway&sr=8-6