Delaneycatz
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Posts posted by Delaneycatz
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Centre done as well. You can do this in the car if you prefer by pulling the vent out about an inch and then removing the front vent cover but I choose to remove the head unit and work on them out of the car. The electrical connection is easy to disconnect when the head unit is removed which is what stops you removing the vent from the car once it’s released from the dash
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Sorted….so to easily remove the vents from the car I used a old metal coat hanger. I cut this to create two long metal prongs (images to follow) these you need to side into the vent at the bottom where if you look in will see pyramid looking holes at around 5 and 7 a-clock. Slide the prongs in and lift very gently to prise them upwards. I found by removing the plastic silver trim below the vent by using a plastic removal tool working at the top these pop off. You can then get some purchase and pull the vents out. It needs a little force but proved you lift the prongs up at the same time it isn’t too bad. On the vents by the doors you can remove the side panels to access where the vent is connected to the electrical connection. I haven’t done the centres yet but suspect the head unit needs to be removed. Will confirm when I tackle these as all my vent controls need attention. To remove the outer vent face to replace the tab behind gentle work around the three tabs using a driver to push in the locking tab and gentle lift the tab which will allow the face to separate slightly until all three are released and then there is one on the bottom that needs to be pushed in
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Thanks.. where is the central gearbox? Would I be right to assume in the back centre when the clam lifts?
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I have attached some images of my sorry looking vent after it’s removal hence the replacement on order. From what I can see there are three fixing points and a wiring connection that has to be disconnected. I assumed read up that they were plastic lugs however the two next to each other have these metal clips. Now it’s removed I can see that by inserting a small enough screwdriver x2 into each of the small openings internally should release the vent at the bottom and the top one is a plastic clip. Once the vent is removed I clipping the surround is a lot easier to enable the repair required. Once the new vent arrives I can compare the two to hopefully enable me to remove the other effected vents
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Thanks all. Tried that and treated all the moving parts to a good dose of lube but hasn’t fixed the issue. Is there a catch holding the clam down. It’s almost like it’s holding and then decides to let go
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It’s a complete pita. So much so that I damage my vent.(replacement on order) I intend to have a good look at the old and new and provide some info on removal. I suspect some form of custom tool will be required but happy to be proved wrong
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Any one else had an issue with the clam shell sticking before it pops open? Seems ok once it’s been operated once but if left over night it seems to hold or catch on something before letting go. I have had a good look around but can’t see anything obvious. I am wondering if the clam catch needs some lube but not not sure where to start. Any help appreciated.
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If by chance or fate I have found a seller on eBay seeking these clips😀just in case anyone else needs any below is the item number.
115180328063
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Apologies but I suspect this has already been covered but any idea where I can obtain the clip to repair the air vent vane that don’t move. I have found info on how to remove the vent but can’t locate the clips to repair. Thanks in advance all
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I see menoporsche has added the link to my old running report, thank you. Lots done since this was last updated😀
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Unfortunately I will shortly need to list my 2000S for sale. Apart from the for sale section on this great forum any opinion on where else I should consider. I could well do without the endless ims questions and hopeful tyre kickers so I suspect eBay should be given a miss despite it’s nation wide coverage. Was wondering if ad in classic and specialist magazines would be a more appropriate approach. Any experience from the faithful followers
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Fit is really good. I suspect they copied the pattern off an original part.
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I also need one to replace mine. Searched everywhere and couldn’t find anyone who sold the silver trim without a gaiter or knob. In the end I purchased a complete replacement similar to the image posted by tynesider off eBay and replaced the gaiter on mine at the same time and resold the new knob. From memory cost me around £100 and sold the knob for 50.
could be a market for these if you have a 3d printer -
Hi
i seem to have developed the same issue. Did you find a solution? Or is a new regulator in order
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I did wonder that myself but can’t see how that would effect the cable length due to how it clips on to the gearbox selector and into the gear shift housing
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Yep that’s what came off and that’s the same part number as what I ordered. I took the new one of the car and measured and checked against the old one, it’s the same!
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I hope so. The part supplier quoted the same part number that is in line with the parts catalog and what came off. There is no part number on the cables so I have to hope they are right. I have message them and asked them to confirm
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How did you adjust that cable to be longer?
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Yep tried that. That’s what I thought first of all.
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Hi Trooper
thats not the issue. The cable isn’t long enough to slip into the connection. If you notice the photo due to the design the thread wont locate into the coupling
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Can’t seem to locate the right hand cable into its housing coming off the gear shifter. Anyone else had this issue?
Disconnecting the wiring loom on front bumper
in 987
Posted
Hi
i have removed the front bumper to replace the condensers but bugger me if I can’t get the loom to unplug under the front wheel arch. I had to resort to unclipping some of the loom feeding the fogs to move it aside enough to complete the job but do want to get the bumper sprayed off the car. Any tips?