Danncus

On 4/24/2024 at 8:13 AM, DorsetWurzel said:

Yes that was me.

 

wiring is very simple, 

make sure you get the switches with the plugs and some loom and seats with the plugs to connect onto the seats and part of the wiring loom, 9 apart were brilliant and stripped the drivers side back to the fusebox, I had to make up some of the loom, but the was it.

 

as for fitting, rake out you old seats, I depinned the red/violet power wire and the 3yellows and one ground from the supplied vehicle seat plug and populated the plug already on my car, you have to remove locking tabs (blue) on the plugs to do this and slide an end cap off to remove the smaller multi plug for the 3 yellow and one brown go to go in.

once you have populated the seat plug you need to run the 3 wires to the switches, you do not have to follow the factory route! This will save you a ton of time. I went literally from under the seat up the side of the tunnel to where the switches are, less than a metre.

you will have two wires left on the switches to connect, blue grey with red dots and a brown, you can connect both your ground and blue grey to the same colour wires in the electric window switches, this will save you a ton of time also. The blue grey is a 1.5v wire, so don’t try and wire it to a 12v supply!

the thin brown that you connected with the yellows, just needs to go to ground. Earth points are under each seat. 
 

this leaves you the red violet, run this down the sill, to the fusebox, and on the top row is an unpopulated fuse space connect your wire there and fit a 25a fuse. Plug everything in and jobs jobbed..

 

 

one thing to add if connecting to the fusebox  - these crimps  will allow you to use the vacant space with no bodges https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126032837470?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=XtHNdilmSHi&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=EGSdw38zSQe&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

10 hours ago, Sanky said:

Yes you can swap out the whole cluster to the one you have linked.

But you may to upgrade to the dot matrix cluster like the one in the link below.  Gives a bit more information in the centre display.

2002 PORSCHE BOXSTER S 986 - SPEEDO / INSTRUMENT CLUSTER 98664123700 #SLG | eBay

Have you got OBC?

Can these be retrofitted to a 2001 2.7?

Should that part be greased?  On the old Bendix type starters found on cars in the 60’s / 70’s any wet lubricants would soon clog up again. Graphite was recommended. 

2 hours ago, phazed said:

92db is good. My Toyosports measures 99 DB at 5000 RPM. I must try it at four and see what it is.

what is the redline of a 3.2, 986? Tracks are supposed to measure at 2/3 RPM.

Tell the scrutineer your redline is 5000. 😂

So I decided to retrofit a kit. I fitted the pads to the passenger seat. Quite an ordeal, but happy with the result. 
 

I’m wondering where people have sourced the power from?

20 minutes ago, CAZ said:

Wanted to hill climb mine but never got the chance in the end - mine was British Racing Green as well and was called Kermit ( as in Kermit the frog ) then had a bare metal respray in cherry red - did the London to Brighton Classic Car run twice in her though - happy days 😊

The #57 midget was my first car. It’s been through allot, on speed events and racing,  especially last year when my eldest daughter had a smash on a hillclimb. 

And the Sprite 

6 hours ago, CAZ said:

Whoo hoo!  @Toddie A fellow previous frog Eye Sprite owner - mine was 9281 ME  - looking at its MOT history it's just been stored since 2007 - (sorry to go off topic - hope you get somewhere with the damage claim @Danncus)

We should start a sub group

Crazy. Looking on fixmystreet it has been reported last Friday and I hit it Tuesday. Still there today. 

10 minutes ago, Toddie said:

@Danncus  Make sure when you take the photo that you have something in an image that shows the depth of the hole, that is important. Also look on the council website, they should have a report a pothole section, see if the pothole that has caused your damage is listed, if it is then you have a problem as the council can then claim it is in hand to be fixed. I had a claim paid by Blackpool council when a raised manhole cover ripped the anti roll bar off my Frog eye Sprite, there were no warning signs.

It’s one of those holes that that a sub contractor repairs badly and the hole appears right next to their last three poor repairs  

front arb mounts on a Sprite are very exposed! I’ve got a very low competition midget and a slightly more refined Sprite mk3
 

47 minutes ago, nelmo said:

Problem is, how do you prove it was that pothole that caused the problem? You are honest but there would be lots of people who won't be and will claim for anything if they think they can get free cash (see PPI claims and 'whiplash' claims, which are out of control).

You could argue if they did their jobs it would be impossible for fraud to take place. 

4 minutes ago, Mattman42 said:

Good luck with the claim - my son's car damaged his suspension as a result of a pot hole and Hampshire County Council refuse any claims.

Make sure you get lots of photos of the pot hole

 

 

Yes I won’t hold by breath. They seem to be robustly refusing claims. Hardly fair not to maintain the road and then claim their maintenance procedures are all beyond reproach. I’m wondering if there are any companies that can make a claim without being fobbed off as easily?

17 minutes ago, phazed said:

I would never be happy with a repair. Replacement parts are the answer if they are split.

Difficult to find. Split rims?

Driving this week I hit a large pothole which I couldn’t avoid. Probably the most severe I’ve experienced. When l stopped a quick walk round and couldn’t see anything. Today during the mot it is evident that the front rim now has a slight flat edge and on the outer side. The rear which also went down the same bolt seems ok on the outer edge. I couldn’t see the inner rim. 
these are Sport Design split rims that were refurbished about two years ago. 

I went back to the hole today and it’s about 8” deep!

id like to make a claim if possible against Cheshire East, but unsure what the best method is to rectify the wheel/wheels?

repair of replacement?  I think the council would want the estimate or bill?

https://928-944parts.com/en/products/stuurschakelaar-reparatie-set-911-944-928-968-986

I did see a kit for sale from Belgium or Holland in around 2019. I can’t remember the specifics, but I can recall it was what I’d do if I had the problem again

There is a car which is being broken with all the parts (seats and switches) and anything else of use. 
 

I can’t find any information on with those parts you simply need a switched +ve supply?

On 1/10/2021 at 3:22 PM, Paul676 said:

Hi I brought some heated seats off eBay and wired them up my self it is quite easy to do.

What is involved? What parts from the donor car are needed?

thanks 

Has anyone fitted factory heated seats to a car not prepared?

whats involved? Obviously the console switches, but what else?

thanks

Geometry. 

looking again, it would be good to confirm if those shields are fitted correctly. does anyone had a good photo for reference?

I checked those. When the roof is half open, and you thump the tonneau is sort of rattles/buzzes. It’s not very easy to spot where exactly from. It could be from the side guides that glide up the sides. They are un greased. 

I’ve got an increasing rattle which I think is from the tonneau or the linkage. Only when the roof is up and on rough road surfaces. It’s got gradually worse after doing the NC500 last week. 

When the roof is down in think the tension/compression stops the vibration 

Can anyone point me in the right direction to get to the bottom of this?