Castaway

I’ve had good success with Ebay classified Ads, £25 but no further fees and it runs for 28 days

Last week I’ve had a push to get it sorted out...Fresh MoT, 2 new Michelins on the back. New rear rain tray and roof wires and clips. Fresh engine oil, filter, filter holder. First time I had it on 4 axle stands. Wash and polish...all ready for summer! 😀

Yes saw those, they wouldn't fall very far was my first thought! Are fixed big tall ramps available I wonder

For me spec is second to condition.Bells and whistles are just more things to go wrong on an old car. I was relieved they have a powerful heater.

4 hours ago, letsmile said:

The only thing I didn't like about the quick jack was the hydraulic operation, after I watched a youtube vid last night where this guy was lifting his Audi Q5 and one side basically started to collapse - it did send shivers! And that's why I was leaning towards the Holden option as no air or hydraulics, unless there was another option.

 

I looked at a few of this type of thing but like you had reservations about hydraulic systems with no manual locks. My hydraulic motorcycle lift (which is pretty basic)  has a steel bar that physically stops it lowering once at height and I’d want a similar failsafe on a car system

These bits have a lot of lateral movement is that normal or are they worn?

Thanks

Not very watertight 😆

The operating arm wasn’t connected so had been flailing around making holes. soggy mess underneath, sound deadening foam under drivers seat and under the rain tray full of water...drivers side fortunately so ECU OK. Been putting the roof up and down with one arm and never noticed!

Took the mechanism apart in the end rather than cut the new rain tray and lifted the roof off. Once it’s all back together need to make sure it’s all adjusted OK. Have reinforced bits of the new tray just in case though! Old inner tube and contact adhesive

holes in the old tray below, no surprise it leaked

Ah thanks that video is spot on, I get it now. Thanks for that mate

Thanks Nobbie, will take a look. Did you need to remove this? Or did the new one slip over it?

thanks

16 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

Suspect that patched area was caused by a broken ball joint allowing the arm to penetrate the tray. That’s where it did it on mine. Changed mine out about a month ago. Didn’t even need to remove roof, just unbolted it and moved it backwards to allow me to slip the tray into place.

Thanks, yes that sounds likely. Is it simple enough to undo and remove the roof mechanism (big circular thing, not sure what its called)? And put it back in the same alignment? Thanks

Hi,

My RHS rear rain tray has several holes that are causing water ingress. I’ve got a s/h tray to fit from Douglas Valley but don’t want to fit it only to have holes develop again quickly.

one of the holes looks to be caused by the adjustable roof arm, unsure about the cause of the others. Is the roof arm likely to be badly adjusted or is it just wear and tear?

car is a late 99 2.7

ta!

First image damage more or less in the centre. Second image shows rear of tray with damage under tge patch and above patch to the righT

Roof down and disconnect battery. The battery takes 2 mins, 10mm spanner take off the negative terminal. Theres electrickery under dem der seats!

Could be a simple wiring fault causing an intermittent short and blowing the fuse? Think I’d be checking out connections at the pump first, looking for damaged insulation, then maybe the relay then the pump. But I’m not an expert!

49 minutes ago, edc said:

If you think it's from the top then get the top cover off. You'll often see some oil residue around the plenums, throttle body where the AOS connects.

I’m away on holiday or I would! Thought I might start with a list of possibles, thanks for the suggestions.

Thanks, yeah I wondered the same but think it’s too high, seems to originate from the top of the engine?

I changed the auxiliary drive belt recently and with the panel behind the seats removed oil is visible on the RHS as you look at it. Not a lot and nothing beneath the car. Suggestions for where it’s coming from would be cool. Links to not very good pics below.

thanks

https://ibb.co/QFsGp8K
https://ibb.co/hcdwqnq

To add to this excellent post what I learned when I did it

10mm spanner for the bolt that holds the steering lock on

T20 torx for other fixings

Connect all wiring to the new unit before installing; I forgot to connect the immobiliser plug and it’s difficult to fit in situ

I didn’t remove the steering wheel and it didn’t make life too difficult to work around it

The torx screws are different lengths, take photos of them next to where they came out

The Torx screw under the microphone is deeply recessed and could be tricky to retrieve; I taped it to my torx drive to get it started in the thread

to fit the key barrel in the new steering lock I moved the lock with a screwdriver to position 1, (ignition on) then inserted the barrel. Took a bit of trial and error but worked

Cheers

8 hours ago, ½cwt said:

There are only 2 original IMS bearings, dual row in earlier cars, single row in later cars.  If changing/upgrading, it is a case of just changing the original like for like, or which after market kit, whether roller bearing, oil fed bearing or ceramic bearing.  All are at different price points.  Really do your research before committing to a £1000 to £1700 project.  Also bear in mind that unless done recently you could well be looking at fresh suspension arms, drop links, top mounts, engine mount, ARB pushes, shocks, discs and pads, clutch, rear main seal, battery, tyres.  All of which if not done DIY with careful buying of parts where possible would pretty much double or more your purchase budget even if you spread it over a couple of years... I've chosen to do a lot of things on mine like 18" rims (£1k with tyres), new head unit & speakers and retro fit cruise control (£250) but if I'm honest with myself I've spent over £4k on DIY work and repairs in about 3 years on a car that cost just under £5k and might now be worth just over £5k. £1600 of that was a full suspension refresh. Don't go looking for work to do, the car will give you plenty at 17 years old unless it has a 100% copper bottomed fully documented service record with all the key things above done recently!

What he said. Save your money and replace the IMS only if it begins to go, which it probably won’t. You’ll need the money for suspension and brakes, 4-wheel alignment and other surprises the car throws at you (£200 yesterday for a new steering lock)! I spent £1600 on a suspension refresh just to get the car to handle like it should and without creaking.

Cheers

Looks great!

Hi Brian,

in August 2019 it cost $143 dollars, total inc shipping $231 and I will have paid customs too I expect. Ebay seller was redlineautosports if that's any help.

cheers

Dave

Thanks Gutley, that's a great post, helped me understand the 3 parts and that the release pin is underneath on a RHD car! So i cancelled my order for a switch and have ordered a replacement steering lock.

I got it out without too much problem. Seems the mechanical bit inside is not actuating the steering lock pin, I can turn it using a screwdriver but cannot get the pin to pop out. I am assuming this is purely a mechanical link with no electrical input? 

https://imgur.com/rxbFan8

Eventually got it in, started the car, can cut the engine but ignition stays on. Ordered electrical switch will take it from there.

Just got the car back on the road after a big old cabin flood and now I have the key/ignition issue.🤣

When I've turned the car off recently the steering lock has been slow to engage, the very last few degrees of the 'off' rotation have been slow and then 'click' as the steering lock activates.

Today, got home turned ignition off, key came out, no click and the key won't go back in.

I've had no electrical gremlins and everything else works, central locking key fob alarm activation etc.

So far I tried Plus Gas down the barrel and lots of wiggling but no joy, also disabled the battery and reconnected but no change and tried putting the steering wheel on full lock in both directions.

Loads on the web about this but I don't know if my symptoms are likely to be cured by a new switch or if this is an ignition barrel problem. What is stopping the steering lock engaging. is it the barrel mechanism sticking or an electrical signal not getting through (or something else?)

Any help appreciated, otherwise I'll start with a replacement switch and move on from there...

Cheers

I got a silencer from a US dry state (Ebay) and it is in excellent condition compared to the UK ones I saw for sale on Ebay, they just get an easier life over there! Might be worth the customs charge if you're going for OE.