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Posts posted by 986T8
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19 hours ago, phazed said:
I fitted the same to mine a couple of months ago. Pretty easy job as long as you have access.
Let us know how you like it, is it too rough?
just replaced my OE 987 part for the second time in 30k miles. Not sure I want to be doing it this frequently
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Had my 944S for almost 15 years so I’m going for 20 on the 986. By then I’ll be late 60s so know idea what I’d be thinking then. Cars keep getting heavier and with too much electronics. I think 2004 is really the last good year. Early Cayman was a thought until the bore scoring issue surfaced. Kind of over Porsche at this point.
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There are some posts about it on 986forums.com
I think it was standardized on the 2003 facelift models
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3 hours ago, ½cwt said:
Very small job, fitted a new retaining rivet to the fuel cap tether. Hopefully I can now hang the cap on the small hook on the fuel flap when refuelling again.
I need to do that. I’ve just been setting it on the pump and hoping I don’t forget it, like in the old days.
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On 12/24/2023 at 10:31 AM, phazed said:
Removed the front engine mount this afternoon with a view to fit the Powerflex add on Poly, "fill in" bushes to strengthen and firm up the original. Of course my original mount is shot, split in 2 places! Will return the Poly bush add ons and purchase a new Poly mount...Typical!
Let us know how you like it?
considering it when I do my water pump
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On 12/19/2023 at 12:30 PM, S14 said:
What’s the preventative PS repair?
Just add a hose clamp to the line?
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13 hours ago, phazed said:
I run the Toyo R888’s all the time. A great Tyre.
Out of interest, I have managed about six Track Days with these tires
Do you worry about the oiling system at all?
I am thinking of trying something grippier for track days.
Finished the FR wheel bearing today. Hard work. Might take a break before doing the other side.
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Nice choice Photogirl.
it’s never too late to paint your AOS bright red
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On 7/17/2023 at 12:17 PM, ½cwt said:
Finally sorted a rear end creaking. Coffin arm and toe link bolts not correctly torqued after tracking.... I usually check immediately after the tracking is done, but I was sure he took out a torque wrench after I'd told him 100Nm. Moral, always check you nuts!
I’ve been chasing a front squeak for a really long time. Replaced coffin arms with no improvement, was about to do diagonals when I read this. Sure enough, front diagonal mounts were scary loose. I think what happened was I used the torque spec for the bolt going into aluminum for the one going into steel as well- when I fitted the Eibach ARB.
Drove last night and the squeak is gone. Thanks for the reminder!- 1
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7 hours ago, ½cwt said:
It's worse for a 4 seat car you often have to buy all 4... Although IIRC it was possible to buy EOS mats as front and rear pairs from VW for The Better ½'s.
It is wasteful to have to buy the pair. Why don’t you find someone with an LH drive car and work something out?
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Dude, that’s what those eccentrics inboard on the rear control arms are for. Tell him to look at both sides.
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2 hours ago, Ottobay said:
What buffles me now is this: let's say something with the variocam went wrong.. Why did the engine shut down?
should it not just give a code and continue to run a little rough?
I would think if it loses signal long enough, maybe a few rotations, it would shut down to prevent piston to valve contact.
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Mine is SPG and mid back of the seat hits the firewall, but the top of the seat is at least 3” below the roll hoop.
Overall tallness of the seat is only 34”.
I think Betim made those brackets too big and the logo and the hole in the middle aren’t helping.
the Brey-Krause roll bar extension won’t help you.
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I think you have the seat and sliders backwards on the bracket? All the clearance for the lap belt looks to be opposite the logo.
Then if you go to a much lower screw hole you might need to cut off the top of the horn.
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Can you lower it with more holes in the side brackets?
Mine is maybe an inch off the floor and will go all the way until the seat back hits the firewall first. Your seat looks pretty tall if the head rest is hitting the roll hoop.
I’m 6’1” with a 32” inseam so for me it’s all about headroom.
I think they could have made the rollbar an inch taller and an inch wider on each side and the top would still clear it. Would be neat to make one but would cost a little
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Replaced the hydraulic cylinder responsible for raising and lowering my passenger seat (manual). Not too bad of a job.
Wife won’t be towering over me in my race seat anymore
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Leave them off and drive it. If it makes noise, try reusing them (but I think the adhesive is necessary). If you still don’t like it, buy the shims.
Brake squeal has nothing to do with the quality of the brakes.
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19 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said:
Worse brake pads?
Whats the story with the 997 oil cooler?
I got a great deal on used Porterfields last year but used them up. Back to the cheap stuff.
The 997 part is 48mm taller and fits. Unfortunately I don’t have oil temp data with the stock cooler but guessing this will be much better.
Part number 997 107 025 00
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On 7/11/2022 at 12:19 PM, AlphaGaz said:
possibly, I'll probably just settle for re polishing them every couple of years. I have to sell a kydney next for the clutch though which I had budgeted for when buying the car but I never considered the flywheel which most people are recommending too
You can test the flywheel, if you torque it on a bench and it returns to 5-10 mm of its original position then it is still good. I had to search a long time to find the spec, but was able to reuse mine. I suspect a lot of DMFs are replaced that are still good.
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Or 944 throttle cam
Is the secondary air injection system really necessary?
in 986
Posted
Yes, the Yanks delete it then flash to the Euro tune I think. If you already have the tune it could be easy.