Spuggy

Spent a few hours investigating the inoperative horns and finally bit the bullet and removed the front bumper.  I managed this with the car on the ground. Although the horns looked to be very clean and in good order, they were both defective. 

For those who are embarking on this adventure, please note the following... Having established that the fuse and relay were fine, I disconnected one of the horns and used a multi-meter to check for a voltage when the steering wheel button was pushed.... result zero. I used a cable to connect the suspect horn directly to the battery... result zero.   I then fitted a new horn and tried the steering wheel button... result zero.  I checked the new horn was working by connecting it to the battery... result good!

It took a lot of head scratching to realise that I should have disconnected BOTH original horns before starting the investigations as the second horn had a short which had blown the fuse...... 

Anyway, with a new fuse in place, both new horns were successfully fitted.

I remove the rubber air intakes and cleaned the radiators, then unclipped the grilles from the bumper and cleaned, scrubbed and repainted them before refitting them.

I only had one issue when refitting the bumper and that was the underside o/s centre self tapper, didn't appear to be engaging with any clip.  When using a small mirror, I could see a 10mm square recess in the chassis with no evidence of a clip, or even how a clip would work.  The layout of the underside fasteners is not symmetric so I couldn't check the opposite side.  I searched the floor but couldn't find anything?  I eventually gave up on this fastener but eventually found the clip stuck in the treads of my work boots.  I think that it is possible to retrospectively fit the clip but I will need to get the car on the ramps to enable this.

Anyway... all done!

Spug

5 minutes ago, Spuggy said:

 

Does your car have the two release levers at the door sill?  If so..... 

12 minutes ago, jonogt6 said:

Surely that's for the fuel filler cap release.

Yes friend.  You are correct.  Apologies  S

On my 98 car, it is just above the o/s door top hinge.  

Steve

5 hours ago, Codfanglers said:

Oil pressure from the pump on the outide of the cartridge, back pressure from the oil distribution system on the inside. The structure of the filter with concertina element and glued ends make them quite strong as you will find if you cut them open. Was the filter element really gungey? Has one of the glued ends failed? It might be worth checking the by-pass valve mounted inside the plastic housing - that valve should open to ensure oil circulates if the filter blocks. The pressure differential across the filter increases as the filter becomes blocked and increases quite quickly when it starts to clog with fine particles.

I'd suspect faulty filter but clean oil is the life blood of an engine and personally, I'd change the oil every 3000 miles or 1 year whichever comes soonest as insurance. Old engines don't usually die of natural causes, dirty oil is a common murder weapon.

Thanks friend

Thanks friend.  Old oil looks fine to me.  S

Thanks for your responses friends.

I appreciate your advice

S

Thanks friend

So, oil and filter was changed in Sept 20 when the car was laid up during lock down.  Car was put on the road in March 21 for six months covering 4900 miles.  Car put back on the road in March 22 for six months covering 5800 miles.  So although the oil has been in the engine for thirty months, it has been used for less than twelve and done less than 12,000 miles.  I understand that a failing AOS can cause negative pressure in the crankcase, and I wondered if this could have 'sucked' the cartridge inwards?  

Thanks

S

22 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Porsche original cartridge ?

How long/how many miles since it was changed ?

Oil pressure good ?

 

 

Original Porsche cartridge.  Thirty months and 11,000 miles.  Oil pressure is good.  I was concerned it might have been caused by a vacuum in the engine and related to the AOS?  

Steve

Hi friends.  When I removed the oil filter, I found the paper cartridge had collapsed inwards.  Any thoughts?

Thanks

Steve

Hi friends.  When I removed the oil filter, I found the paper cartridge had collapsed inwards.  Any thoughts?

Thanks

Steve

Thanks friends.  I will purchase from Spyder.  I am not planning to do this myself.  I have a really competent mechanic friend but I didnt want the job to be held up by any snapped bolts etc.  Your advice is as good as I expected it to be.  Steve

Hi friends.  I want to replace the front coffin arms, tunings forks and associated bolts on my 98 2.5 986.  I have priced the items on the Spyder Perfomance website and they're around £330.   Has anyone got any other suggestions?  Some eBay parts are a lot less but I don't know about their quality etc.  You advice is always welcome.

Best wishes

Steve

The order is placed.  Going for the Dunlops from National Tyres.  Downfall is the fitting centre is 25 miles from me and Mrs Spug has suggested we could combine it with a shopping trip to Edinburgh.... This could be more expensive then planned.

Thanks for all your advice

Stay safe

S

4 minutes ago, cptspaulding said:

I had the Kumho Ecsta PS91's on mine. Excellent for grip in the dry, no issues in the wet (although I'm loathe to push in wet). Wore out fairly quickly - poss my driving style?. My rears looked down to about 2-3mm after 7000 miles. Price was about 2/3 that of premium brands though.

Thats useful.  I was hoping for a lot more miles than that.  Thanks

S

27 minutes ago, charlieboy2608 said:

Dunlop have good reviews and are sometimes offered with buy now pay later from national tyres.

I guess the deciding factor will be your size requirement 🙂

Thanks friend

Dunlop is another option at £141.  I need 265/35 18's  

S

24 minutes ago, Paul P said:

Pirelli’s aren’t the most popular on here. I know some people who have dumped them for Michelins even though they had life left  

But. If you had them before and didn’t hate them then a matched set probably wins over a mixed set.  
 

are You looking at kumhos as a better tyre or a cheaper option.  ? 
 

 

Hi Paul

I havent had any issues with the Pirellis other than they havent lasted as long on the rears as I would have expected.  I have seen good reports about the Kumhos  and I am not precious about having matching front and rears.  The fronts are P Zeros and good for a couple more seasons of my limited mileage.  

S

Hi friends

Due to family issues we had to abort our West Country safari and we did the 399 miles back home in a tad over six hours (very short comfort break) and using just £64 worth of fuel!  Bad news is I picked up a rear wheel puncture.  I managed to get home and didnt notice this until the next morning.  Trying to inflate the tyre is futile as I can hear the escaping air so its obvious that this happened very close to home.  Anyway, I was due to change the rear tyres  so I am looking for replacements.  I can get Kumhos for £135 ea or Pirelli P Zeros for £149 ea.  I have Pirellis on the front and rear now.  Any thoughts?

Thanks

Spug

Thanks Paul,  Spug

On 10/8/2021 at 11:10 AM, SimonT001 said:

My indie (D&G) suggested these guys if you just want the blade https://www.keysinthepost.com/product/porsche-car-key-2002-transponder-chip/

I have also been referred to this supplier.  Having bought the cut key, what would it cost to have it programmed to the car?  I have two keys but one seems to have lost its link to the immobiliser..it does everything else upto and including lighting up all the dashboard lights.  Q  Can this be repaired/reprogrammed?  Spug

6 hours ago, Freddie said:

This weekend I found that my suspected RMS oil seepage, was in fact coming from the oil filler tube top section (the part from the header tank and filler in the boot) where it had been put back together incorrectly in a previous life. Replacement ordered for only £20, phew!

Now that is a result!  S