tonyplymouth

For information, the Driver's Manual P/N WRD 986 020 97 for my '97 986 has an official addendum pasted as an in-slip in the minor repairs, battery section, page 111, which calls the procedure "ALARM SIREN SERVICE OVERRIDE" and reads:

To allow the disconnection of the vehicle's battery the siren must first be placed into service mode.  Please find listed below the procedure for a service override:

1.  Disarm the alarm.

2.  Within 30 seconds turn on the ignition.

3.   Wait 20 seconds and then you may disconnect the battery.

Upon reconnection of the battery the siren will automatically release from service mode.

This works in my car which has an early type I16 alarm module.  Unfortunately the addendum doesn't mention what position the ignition switch should be in when reconnecting the battery.  I find that in my car the siren doesn't operate when reconnecting the battery with the ignition switched off.  My practice has been to switch off the ignition and connect the battery cleanly (so that there is only a single switching operation and no "chattering") to minimise power surging to the alarm, engine DME (and in my case also the Tiptronic) modules. 

Later cars with the !32 alarm system and 9-pin door locks wake up as discussed above.

However worth mentioning that early 986 cars with the I16 alarm system (<MY1999 with 8-pin door locks) can't be woken up by simply inserting and turning the mechanical key in the door lock then using the remote; the key must also be inserted in the ignition switch (within about 30s) and the immobiliser chip read before remote locking/unlocking wakes up and can be used.

I assume I16 and I32 refer to the architecture of the respective alarm modules (16bit or 32bit).

MOTed my 1997 986 2.5 TIP 83,000 miles today.  Pass with no advisories.  Very pleased and now set for another year of fun driving.

Success.  Following 1/2cwt's excellent "how to", I have been able to get a CoC from Porsche and register my 1997 986 as ULEZ and CAZ compliant.  All quite straightforward; the process took about 4 weeks from start to finish.

Now for the last step, to get the 986 V5C updated with my car's emissions data.

Also I have been able to register my "historic vehicle" 924 and MGBGTV8 cars as ULEZ and CAZs compliant.  Even easier as a CoC isn't required; just a copy of the V5C.

So again, my thanks to 1/2cwt.

Thanks 1/2cwt.  The O-ring sizes mentioned in the PET are actually BS1808/ISO3601 "120" and "320" sizes readily available from bearing and seal suppliers in a variety of "rubber" formulations such as nitrile, viton and silicone.  Incidentally the dimensions quoted are the actual size of the ring, not the groove .  ISO 3601 specifies corresponding groove sizes to give the correct "squeeze" for good sealing.  Strangely the two rings are actually imperial sizes (1 x 3/32inch and 1 1/8 x 3/16inch) but other components of the Boxster engine have imperial dimensions too, for example the dual-row IMS bearing.

If only we knew what material Porsche specified for these O-rings (probably viton or silicone to withstand the heat) we could obtain them for a fraction of the Porsche cost.

But for the moment I agree that service kits complete with tubes and O-rings are the way to go.  There are reports on USA Porsche forums that some after market tubes have ring grooves that are not very round and have moulding joint line "flash" in the grooves which can lead to leaks after installation.

An anomaly I have come across is that the 986 workshop manual specifies use of tyre mounting paste for assembling these tubes in the cylinder head.  I think I would be nervous of using this water based stuff and would prefer to follow the note in the  PET which specifies grease 9999177880.  This grease has been superseded by various other brews over the years including 00004320635 and 00004330557 but is, I think, ordinary O-ring assembly silicone grease.

1/2cwt - thank you for all that very useful info.  Could you clarify please; presumably the O-ring sizes you quote are bore x section?  Also what material are they; nitrile or viton, or something else?

1/2cwt, thanks for clarifying that.  I will now get on and apply for a CoC and then register for ULEZ and CAZ in case I motor in such areas in the future.

I note that the CoC Application Form covering letter says "Please note Certificates of Conformity are only available for EU specification vehicles built after 1997."

Has anyone been able to get a CoC for a 1997 986 please?

All the drain holes at the front should have drain tubes attached.  But when attempting to clear these tubes it is very easy to be too enthusiastic, dislodge the top grommets and push the tubes into the fuel tank compartment below.  This not a great disaster (though undesirable) as water will simply drain over the plastic fuel tank and emerge underneath.  The drain holes do not connect with the cabin (only with the fuel tank region) but if they get blocked then the scuttle area around the battery can flood and water find its way into the cabin through the cabin filter and cable penetration seals.

One of the tubes on my 1997 986 had been pushed through by a PO, but I found that by inserting a piece of wire into the lower end of the tube (which emerges in the front wheel arch area) I was able to manoeuvre the upper end of the tube to just beneath the drain hole, then grip the upper end of the tube with long-nosed pliers inserted through the hole from the top, and finally pull the grommet upwards into its proper position.  Fiddly but do-able.  The message is: only use something like a trombone cleaner to clear the drains, and then use it very gently, bearing in mind that there is a 90 degree bend in the tube a few centimetres below the drain hole.

Hope this helps.

Correction to my post earlier today re spec A40.  The February 2013 list of approved A40 oils included one 50 viscosity oil; Mobil 1 Peak Life 5W-50.  The March 2021 lists two 50 viscosity oils; Mobil 1 FSX1 5W-50 and Mobil 1 FSX2 5W-50. 

The clue is in the spec's title; A40.  It refers only to 40 viscosity oils, thus a 50 viscosity oil is outside the spec.  

I understand the logic of "classic" oil having higher "hot" viscosity for older engines but I'm not clear in my mind why a lower "cold" viscosity (5W compared to 10W) is considered better for such engines (unless 0W/40 is the standard against which classic is compared).

I suppose the real answer is that Porsche Classic 5W-50 provides a good all-round compromise oil for older engines operating in a wide selection of climates and usage patterns.

I note that of September 2022, Porsche now recommends its classic oil 5W-50 for the Boxster.  

Whereas the original Driver's Manual recommends: (under -20degrees C) 5W-30, 40 or 50, (over -20 degrees C) 10W-30, 40 or 50, and (summer) 15W-40 or 50, or 20W-40 or 50.

And Mobil recommends 0W-40, or for higher mileage cars (over 75,000 miles) 10W-40.

Think I'm going to stick with 10W-40 (middle of the viscosity range of the original Driver's Manual) until my reserve stock is used up (enough for 2 more oil changes) then switch to 5W-50.

Just wondering what proportion of us actually go to the faff and expense of fitting winter tyres/wheels?

Living in the south west where snow is a rarity but rain is common all the year round, and operating my Boxster as a fun-second-car at the budget end of the spectrum, I don't bother with winter tyres.  Instead I think it better to prioritise my limited funds for quality primary tyres and good tread depth.

May be different if the car is a daily and getting to work is essential?

For eob:  No I didn't leave the undertrays off for the MOT.  As Menoporsche says, it is quite common for the tester to include a let-out clause on the MOT certificate to the effect that undertrays prevented a full inspection of some parts of the car.  A tester has the option of refusing or failing a test if he feels  something like an undertray prevents him from accessing a critical testable item or is hiding a suspected defect.  The official DVSA MOT Inspection Manual (available online) covers this in section 14 of the document.

Well pleased.  My car is a 1997 986 2.5 Tip Boxster, now 3 years in my ownership and having covered a total of 82k miles.

During this week did the annual service (fluids and filters etc) and wheels-off/undertrays-removed inspections.   Durametric checks of radiator and engine bay fans.   Drains and radiator ducts checked clear.  Lubricated the hood mechanism.  Replaced the weakening 6 year-old battery with a Tanya Varta 110 battery. 

 Followed by an Italian tune up on our local dual carriage-way to clear cats and tubes. Then on to an MOT, which she passed with no advisories.

 During the service I cured an annoying slight air leak of about 0.2 bar per week at the rim of one rear tyre (Michelin 255/40/17).  Used the old trick of deflating the tyre, then levering the tyre away very slightly (not fully) from the wheel rim using an improvised plastic “tyre lever” to admit soap solution around the full 360 degrees, then inflated the tyre to 4 bar for an hour then finally back down to standard 2.5 bar. 

 So all set for another year of fun Boxstering.

Using the BOE inflation calculator, £42k in 1999 is equivalent to about £72k today.

Ah - fully understand your perfectionist attitude!  Hope your garage blowing away didn't do any damage to the car.  My Clarke tent garage survived last night's gales but is well lashed down with cargo straps to adjacent trees and heavy duty screw-in ground anchors.

Daboy3000 - PM me with your address and I will post you the documents I listed above on CDs.  Tony

If, like me, you are running an early 986 on a DIY maintenance/repair basis and limited budget, I think you will find the following official Porsche documents and manuals very useful, indeed almost essential.  All of them are available from OPCs but also they can be found online for download free of charge or modest cost, though due diligence is recommended to satisfy yourself that copyright isn’t infringed.

a)  Boxster Owner’s Manual.  Covers every day driving and basic technical information and servicing. Hopefully one came with the car, but a replacement can be found online (255 pages or 46Mb pdf).  The 1997 version has part number WKD 986 020 97.  

b)  Porsche Technik (sic) Information Brochure.  This 256 page official Porsche document (30Mb in pdf) was intended as background and introduction to the 986 for OPCs; it describes the design philosophy and technical details of the Boxster.  It is available under part number WKD 499 721.  Great for understanding how Porsche intended the car to work!

c)   Porsche Workshop Service and Repair Manual.  Comprising some 500 pages in 9 sections (over 500Mb as pdf), this manual covers faultfinding, repair and servicing of the vehicle in huge detail.  Particularly useful are the detailed servicing routines, faultfinding on the alarm and immobilizer systems, wiring diagrams, fault codes, and fastener torque values.  Available under part number WKD  483 521. Great for fixing the car.

d)   Parts Catalogue (also known as the “PET”).  Over 600 pages or 13Mb in pdf.  Obviously useful for ordering spares, the PET also covers factory and model year options for the car, and the “exploded views” can help in understanding how components fit together.  PETs are readily found online and usually are free for download.

e) Technical Bulletins  These supplement the Workshop Manual and are issued as necessary by Porsche.  Typically a bulletin will cover a modified part or procedure to overcome an in-service issue.  I haven’t been able to locate a definitive list of Technical Bulletins applicable to the 986 but various individual bulletins can be found by searching online.

Armed with this lot and all the excellent information on our BoXa site it should be possible to do almost any job on an early 986, or at least allow you to be an “intelligent customer” when talking to your OPC or independent garage.

Minor correction; picking the ignition lock might unlock the steering but won't allow starting the engine.  The thief may be able to crank the engine but he would have to defeat the immobiliser to get the engine to start and run, and this requires a key with the correctly coded security "pill" embedded in the key fob. 

Think I have got to the bottom of the confusion.  

When I looked at Daboy3000's ebay link, the listing quoted two equivalent part numbers for the same part  3D1283016A  and  3B2837016A.  If 3D1283016A is interrogated this comes up as a 9 pin module.    However 3B2837016A is the correct OEM part number for a '97 car RH door module and is an 8-pin module.  

Unfortunately the listing doesn't show a view of the connection socket, nor does it actually say how many pins.  So it is possible that the part Daboy3000 will receive could be either an 8 or a 9 pin module.  Hence my suggestion that he checks this detail with the supplier RTG Automotive.

I can add I fitted an RTG Automotive 8 pin module to my car 3 years ago and it continues to work very well.  As far as I could tell it was easily as well made as the original Porsche part.

Hi Daboy3000,  

The OEM number you quoted (3B2837016A) is for a 9-pin module whereas your early 986 requires an 8-pin version.  If not too late, recommend you check with supplier.

Important correction .  Just checked in my official Porsche 986 wiring diagrams.  The change from 8 pin to 9 pin door lock actuators came into effect for model year 1998.  So to recap:  1996 and 1997 use 8 pin modules, 1998 on use 9 pin.

Early (1996/7/8) 986 models use 8-pin connection door lock actuator/modules.  Later 986 models changed to 9 pin.  Afraid I don't know the exact date of changeover but believe it to be 1999.

To sort out an intermittent microswitch/window drop problem in my car, I fitted an inexpensive VW Golf/Passat/Leon door lock actuator provided new by RTG Automotive on ebay for £21.95p including postage.  Came with 5-year warranty.  Fairly easy to fit.  Has worked well for 3 years now without problems.  Can't complain about that.  Not every part for a 986 has to incur "Porsche tax"!

One needs to observe copyright but two important documents for early Boxsters can be found online for download, if you look hard enough:

a) The official Porsche Boxster Technical Manual (which includes Technical Information, Repairs and Diagnosis/Troubleshooting, and wiring diagrams) Part No WKD 483 521  (about 550mb)

b) The official Boxster Service Information Brochure (which describes in detail the technical features of the Boxster) Part No WKD 499 721 (about 29mb)

A third vital document is the Boxster Parts Manual; this is readily available from a variety of sources and seems free of copyright, presumably because it encourages purchase of Porsche spare parts rather than aftermarket etc.

I couldn't keep my venerable '97 986 going on a DIY basis without these!