joeluth

Hi BoXa's

I took the 986 out and it promptly noticed a cracking knocking sound on any rough bit of road!    had a look in the drivers side wheel arch where it seemed to be coming from and sure enough.. completely broken spring! 

I believe it's good practice if not essential to change them both sides, or can I just replace the broken one without issues?  wondering if it might affect alignment.

Any recommendations for sourcing replacements,   it's for my 2001 986 2.7  

Second problem is my heater, it's either cold  (low) but set to  17° upwards It seems to just go full blast hot.    I have the electric control unit with the LCD. 

Many thanks for any suggestions!

cheers

4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I took the option of fitting a second had genuine unit from a breaker when the cable broke on my passenger side door regulator. All the bits are there and it is set up for a Boxster, don't get a 911 one as the stops are in a different place. Still running fine after 3 years and less than a third the price of a new Porsche item.

Hi ½cwt, thanks for your response. 

I think you're right there, I was hoping to fix it but that loose pulley wheel is a bit of problem.
I saw repair kits but they don't include that part.

Design 911 sell the aftermarket part, without the motor,  it looks like very similar to the eBay ones.

Thinking that maybe the real issues lies elsewhere, perhaps the tension or some other issue broke the pulley,

I best do the same as you and get a complete used genuine part. 

Cheers!

Joel

Hi all, is this worth trying to DIY or do I need to replace the whole regulator?

2001 2.7 986

Had a situation where my passenger window wouldn't go back up and close, I heard a bit of a nasty crunchy sound, then it fully opened and got stuck there.

I've had a look inside the passenger door and found that the inner pulley (closest to the door hinges) wheel had come off.

I can pop it back on but it's quite loose, I expect it will just fall off again.

I think it's missing a cap of sorts to hold it in place, or maybe it's supposed to snap onto the stalk but has worn down and won't stay put.

There weren't any bits left in the door, the wheel itself doesn't look bad to me.

Here's the rhs pulley in the mirror, this is the one that had fallen off, I put it back on but it's just resting there really, is there a cap missing?

Here's what the other outer pulley looks like in the mirror, it has a larger cap on it  holding it in place.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Cheers all

Joel

Took the boxster out: 

Did 5 x 60 to 20mph braking sessions

drove for a few miles to let the air get to them and then repeated.

Completely got rid of the brushing noise and the brakes felt way better,  bitey and quiet.  Result! 

However: 

Something bad happened on the way home. Started to get a wobble through the steering wheel.
went to brake, foot went to the floor, nothing! 

Pumped the brakes  a few times and got some weak stopping power back, I assumed I'd burst a brake pipe.
very very carefully got the car home, parked up and had a look.

Passenger side front wheel - smoking  hot compared to the others, with a noticeable smudge on the brake disc.

Hopped back in and without starting the car I just pressed on the brake again and it went to the floor,
pumped it a few times and it felt rock solid.

Started the car up again and moved it back and forth a bit on the driveway, brakes felt great, really bitey again.

I'm not sure what to make of it,  burst pipe? seized caliper? both!? something else?  urgh.. 

I'll get it up on the stands tomorrow when it's light, I just wondered if anyone had experienced this?

Cheers all!

1 hour ago, GmanB said:

Had to do a second round of bedding on discs/pads a couple of years ago, pretty horrible sounds with a bit of juddering under braking. Worth a try?

Yeah 100% worth it, they feel dull and far too noisy at the moment, hopefully I'll find time this weekend,   thanks all for your suggestions! 

26 minutes ago, Pordave said:

Are you sure it’s not the backplates rubbing?

I got a set of Brembo rear discs and pads and had a constant sound.

I went back to the garage who fitted them and he said the groove in the Brembo disc wasn’t as deep as the OE discs. After 100 miles it stopped rubbing. It basically rubbed away the backplate by a few thou.

thanks mate, hmmm yeah  pretty sure,  I mean I'm not ruling anything out but it's not a constant sound, it's just when I brake, and these discs and pads have done about 500 miles now.

10 minutes ago, gillbe said:

This thread https://www.m5board.com/threads/loud-braking-noise-after-replacement.582034/ ends in success - suggests get them hotter and redo your bedding process  (..bedding procedure was 15 stops from 60 to 30mph)

worth a shot, thanks!

23 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

Not just rubbing the rust off? 

no I don't think that's it.     I don't see any rust. 

8 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

Not just rubbing the rust off? 

no I don't think that's it.     I haven't noticed any rust. but now that you mention it, these Zimmerman discs supposedly have some kind of anti corrosion coating on them.. perhaps it's had a bad reaction with the pads or got stuck onto them.  

19 minutes ago, charlieboy2608 said:

Hi.

 

Does this occur every time you brake?

For example when stopping at traffic lights or under harsh braking?

Can the noise be heard if you lightly push on the pedal?

Yeah it's all the time, regardless of how hard I hit the brakes, emergency stop or just slowing down a touch, for a speedbump for example. 

It's just weird.     Can anyone even hear their brakes usually?      I can't think of a time when I've noticed them prior to this!

Last autumn I replaced the discs and pads all round.

I used these Textar pads https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303432925623

and these Zimmerman discs https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/98635140105-brake-discs-front-pair.html

and the equivalent items for the rear.

The problem:

They are making quite a loud  brushy kinda "Shhh" sound when I brake!  seems like its coming from all 4 corners too,

it may have been like this all winter and I only just noticed recently with the top down.

Thinking perhaps the pads aren't really a good match for the discs? or maybe I didn't bed them in properly and they are messed up somehow.

Anyone experienced this, or have any suggestions / reccomendations?  

Thanks!

Fixed my drivers side seat today!   it had had given up after years of abuse, the base foam and elastic had split so it was saggy with minimal support left in it. 

Was considering changing to 987 seats but figured I'd have a go at fixing it first,  pretty easy to strip the seat down and swap the bits over, I sourced a good used foam cushion along with a replacement base support from eBay.

The foam is the same either side so went for a used passenger seat figuring it would likely have had far less use and it really worked, the seat feels spot on now,  a good firm yet comfortable seat with strong side supports,  and only cost me £35!

26 minutes ago, Chukkieegg said:

Very kind of you but I am in Stoke on trent I will get one ordered as trying to find a replacement motor likely a 987 but I can't try to trade mine when it don't lock 😂 

No worries, good luck! 👍 

22 minutes ago, Chukkieegg said:

Can I ask what aftermarket actuctor you got it appears my 986 is now doing same thing neither door is locking but drives door locks of key and i get the double beep you can hear 

Sure it was this one : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174225058811?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wJiZ5q5jTRy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=6YCR027-QBG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 I've still got the aftermarket actuator here and it def works, I tried it,   Was just gonna keep it as a spare but if you're near York I'd be happy to let you test fit it and see if it solves your problem there! 

22 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

Pretty sure the door handle is fine as it was making the window drop when I pulled it and closed it for the "last" time.  (my whole reason for messing with it in the first place)

Doesn't the alarm still sound if you disconnect the battery?

I might try that tough as someone said that the fob might work if I can disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Well yeah, it probably will for a short while, but it needs power from somewhere right?  also you can physically unplug the bugger once the hood is up! 

1 hour ago, Daboy3000 said:

@joeluth Door lock has come dethatched from the mechanism that goes to the actuator, therefore turning the key in the lock does nothing.

 

Is it worth calling the AA or auto-locksmith, if that is s thing?

bummer mate, I see..

so there's 2 connections from the door handle to the actuator, there's a long spade like arm that turns with the key, it has to fit into a rotating slot, it sounds like this is not connected. 

it also sounds like the connector rod that goes from the outside handle to the acuator is also not attached.

So no handle,   no key turn.    

As trooper said, could be you have to break the glass.. 

 but maybe you can try again with the hanger or some strong wire,   can you get to your frunk emergency boot release?

pull that and disconnect the battery, at least that way you can have a real go at using the wire without the alarm going off.

uh oh, I'm sure this happened to someone else last week. @TROOPER88 said you can get the windows to lower by turning the key and holding it there. 

I can confirm this works, at least it did for me on a 2.7 2001 car.  Did you try it?

Approach the locked car, put the key in the door and turn it to the unlock position, hold it there, and the windows will lower. 

Works the opposite too, if you want to close the windows hold the key in the lock position.

16 hours ago, ½cwt said:

You might ahve guessed, been there, done that, got the tee-shirt.!  These cars will have silent suspension if it is all new and correctly fitted.  Glad it is sorted and it a strange way it will feel a little faster too!

Yeah! it feels great now!   I took it out again this morning, there's a Cars & Coffee morning every Sunday at The Motorist near me. 

I didn't know but there were a few Porsche clubs meeting there today,  the place was rammed!  all types of Porsches, was a nice surprise!

On 3/29/2022 at 2:12 PM, ½cwt said:

Axle stands would be better.  You really need the wheel off to get proper access with a torque wrench.

Drove to the station this morning , rear suspension still creaking away at every bump and turn.

Taking your advice, this afternoon I re-torqued all of the rear suspension arms, most were completely tight, but a few moved a bit before the wrench clicked, trailing arm to body bolts moved the most, I really didn't expect it to make any difference but went for a test drive this evening.

Like a new car, suspension was silent.   
 

4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Axle stands would be better.  You really need the wheel off to get proper access with a torque wrench.

Ah yes, I see what you mean. I remember reading you're supposed to tighten them with the wheels on and thinking "how!?" So I left it to the alignment tech. I'll try your way with the jack and see if I can cure it. Thanks! 🤞 

26 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

A thought just struck me, are the coffin arm inboard bolts correctly torqued up after being tracked.  It is mighty difficult to get the 100Nm torque onto them when the car is up on a ramp.  Mine needed at least 2 more flats of turn to click off when I checked them with the wheel off and the hub supported on a jack so the suspension was in the normal rest position.  I was getting an creak or knock before correcting the torque and frustratingly after doing the top mounts...

Wow really,  Hmm... that is interesting.  The last person to tighten them was at the alignment shop.   I went back there a few times because it was dragging to the left.   They started to get a bit fed up with me, but it was an expensive alignment so I kept going back until it behaved. 

  Worth checking for sure, I've got some ramps at home, maybe I can reverse up them and tighten the bolts.

1 hour ago, JonSta said:

Haven't done it but I'm told that creaking esp from the rear can be coffins. Is it both sides?

Hope it's not! They are pretty much new. Decent ones from Spyder Performance. 

I think the noise is occasionally both sides, but much more obvious from passenger side.

it really sounds like it coming from high up the suspension, where the top mounts are. 

I had experienced the usual knocking on rough roads from my old coffin arms,  it's not that.

And it's not the worn out suspension bush window cleaner type squeek either. 

This is a totally different sound, high up at the back of the car,  like old wooden pirate ship style creaking! 

I blame the roads around me, 20 zones with speed bumps as far as the eye can see. They even speedbump the 30 zones. 

16 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Try that , if it works points to the problem, and if so rather than going at those bolts like a bull at a gate ! Try tightening first just a tad and then work back… old school engineering but often works , and spend a week spraying plus gas around them before you attempt ( my credentials are x Millwright)

Thanks mate, drove to the station this morning after spraying those arb bushes with some grease and it didn't make any difference, so I don't think it's the arb, though I must admit it doesn't look great!  I'll have another go at removing the bolts.     meanwhile I've ordered a new pair of rear top mounts, hopefully that will cure it, I expect they have had it, the front ones were a right state when I replaced them.

20 minutes ago, MTMWARWICKSHIRE said:

When you change the pulleys, bend the corner of the bulkhead panel to get the long bolt out of the top pulley to avoid moving the alternator or jacking the engine up of the mountings... then bend it back.

Next I'll change the AOS for preventative maintenance. 

Where in the UK are you?

ok thanks for the tip,  I'm up north, yorkshire 

11 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Have you done the Anti roll bar bushes?

Ah, I haven't done the rear anti roll bar bushes, and the reason for that is some of the bolts have seized!

I did buy new bushes and tried to change them a while back, but felt like I was going to snap the bolts off so I left it.

It's pretty tight back there, the backs of the roll bar bolts are almost flush with the wheel alignment bolts so there's not much room to work if they snap 
 

Good shout though, I'll try to spray some grease in and around the bushes and see if quietens down a bit. 

11 hours ago, paul111s said:

Had creaking on my 986 on rough roads, had top mounts replaced and creaking has gone 👍🏻

Hi Paul, was it the rear top mounts you had replaced?