Greybeard

I have to admit that it was the first owner who did high annual mileages, I took a punt at 173k given the history and a 6 month warranty from the specialist who had looked after it up to that point. Never regretted it!

2009 987 2.9 manual in midnight blue with sand interior which just passed 187,000 miles, no major issues in its life.

I am the second owner, for the last 3.5 years and it has been brilliant. Like the previous owner, it has been regularly serviced by independents with annual oil changes and anything needed done when required. I believe it had a new clutch at 120k. 

Sadly it looks as if it has to go soon, as I am moving and there will be no space for it. 

If buying second hand units take a good look at the silvering inside. The heat sealing of the lens to the body of the light is not very good in places, and moisture gets in to spoil the silvering. Even on new ones it is worth spending some time with clear silicone sealer around the joint - you have to do this off the car.

I've had my 987.2 for about 2.5 years and it was one of the first issues I noticed. Apart from the crazing, the joint between the cover and the body is poor. Somewhere on the internet is a video of their manufacture, where the joint is made by hf welding. Given the convoluted shape it is no surprise they split and let water in, spoiling the silvering. I got a damaged unit for £10 off eBay to experiment splitting the cover and body like many other light units can be as shown on YT, but the welding makes it impossible, even with a Dremel. 

I gave up and managed after a lot of searching to get replacements from a breakers and a cheap special deal from an on line parts supplier.

Before fitting I sealed all round the joint with clear silicone, and all OK after 18 months.

Mine reached 150k sometime around April 2018 @ 9 years old.

Now closer to 200k.............

I think you will have to remove the bumper, but wiser readers will know better. 

S models have a centre radiator here, rather than the blanking plate iirc.

I would use a heat resistant contact adhesive, as used for trim fixing in cars/van headlinings etc. 

Mostly in large tins, except for this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202147709027?hash=item2f10f14063:g:744AAOSwHB5dijGn&var=502135907717

So, has anybody on here actually tried the oven method on their rear lights? The OEM units look as if they are plastic welded rather than glued together.

I have seen at least 1 rear light unit where the join between the body of the light and the lens is not completely sealed at the bottom edge - maybe that is what contributes to the degredation of the reverse light silvering?

Worth a check.