cdm

Yes... you need a triple square socket thing to open the fill plug. It's like an Allen key but not.......

Make sure you can open the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil, for obvious reasons.

IIRC there are separate warning lights for Handbrake, Low Fluid, Wear Sensors..... Only the handbrake is linked to the roof

Perhaps the bearings on the top mounts need replaced?

The sensors form a loop so the light comes on when open circuit. Check you have plugged them in correctly at the strut. Could also be the fluid level low.

If it is close enough you can just engage the latch and it will pull it in the rest of the way.

I have a 2000 986. I can definitively state that the frunk release cable is on the left (passenger UK) side. You need to pull back the liner and reach in perhaps 12 inches to find it. I attached a string to the loop and routed it just past the liner so it is more accessible - sorry no photos..

While inspecting the cv boots on my 2001 2.7 manual - and finding one split - I noticed that the driveshaft could be moved maybe 20mm in and out in the axial direction. I haven't looked at this before but is that normal/acceptable or does the shaft need replaced.

Thanks.

C

So it looks like the red and brown wires - disconnected - seems to be the drive to the motor and therefore the source of the problem. If someone has disconnected them then it seems probable that the motor is faulty and perhaps blowing fuses?

On my 986 both the base slide Forward/Backward and the base tilt are purely mechanical. Only the backrest is motor driven. If the mechanical parts don't work maybe there is something jammed in there. Have you taken the seat out?

Quote

Been there....!

Don't heat the sensor, you need to heat the pipe around it to expand the metal threads holding it.

Don't be shy about it. It a propane torch doesn't work you will need to get a garage with something beefier to do it - but it WILL come out.

Check that the oil filler pipe is well sealed by removing the cap and feeling for suction by putting your hand over the top of the pipe. I had a crack develop in the bendy pipe from the rear bulkhead to the engine giving air leak and hunting idle speed. It can be a bit of a struggle to get the hose clip off on the bulkhead end if you need to replace it....

Thanks

Can anyone confirm that I can remove the entire soft-top, mechanism and all, from a 2000 986 (plastic window) and replace it with another complete top from a 2003 986 with the glass window?

Thanks

Perhaps this has been done to death but......

I have just acquired a 2003 2.7. It has the CDR23 single CD head unit, door speakers and a frunk amplifier - with the MOST fibre optic thing.

There is some sound from all the speakers but so muffled and low level that it is unusable. I don't know if it's the head unit or the amp or both at fault but many of the buttons on the head unit are unresponsive including Sound. 

So I am asking for some assistance as to the best replacement options. I don't need anything fancy, radio and bluetooth to phone would be fine. I have previously used the continental TR7412UB-OR with good results - but since it drives the speakers directly I think I will need to jerry-rig the wiring from it to the amp in the frunk.

Anyone with experience or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

On mine it's the second one except in your picture the lever is missing. It is purely mechanical and runs on a shaft in the empty hole.

The seat will go up and down but in doing so you need to have your weight on it and push back slightly to lower it and the reverse to raise it. Unless it is really stuck of course.

01111 can be written as 0F in hexadecimal - for those of us old enough to remember when programming was real work....

I had the same problem with my 2.7. I tried replacing coilpacks, plugs, and O2 sensors without success. It was - and still is - the cam solenoid, but it can be managed.

The codes are generated on start-up after a fixed delay (maybe 30 sec) at that point the cam solenoid should be switched to 'low rev' mode and if it doesn't, the ECU begins to count the misfires until it reaches a set point and then the CEL light comes on. The engine will run great in the upper rev ranges since that is where the solenoid is stuck. It seems that the solenoid is actually fine, the problem is with the oil valve that it drives in the head to move the cam timing. Clearing the CEL will work only until the next start-up.

Three things have helped to address this for me. The first was an oil change using the mega expensive Porsche classic oil (perhaps this was important I'm not entirely sure). The second is to let the car run at idle for a little longer when parking up after a run. This seems to let the oil valve settle back into the low rev mode when the oil is hot. The third was to hold it on fast idle with the accelerator on the next start up, drive off immediately and don't let the revs drop too low until the engine has warmed through.

Worth a try before considering spending £££££ in labour charges to replace it. I think the newer generation of engines have a much more accessible solenoid but not this type.