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Crudeoink

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Posts posted by Crudeoink

  1. After a failed alignment visit, I replaced the corroded eccentric washers and bolts (about £85 from my local OPC) and around 2 hours labour to replace them, luckily not seized. 

    m5Ct7A1.jpeg

    Anyways, went for less toe in at the front (Not brave enough for toe out on the front on a road car lol) and more front camber, rear stayed pretty much OEM Porsche specs 

  2. I tried the Chipex.... its not great 😅 The colour match is spot on, but the 'blending solution' just doesnt work, it pulls the paint out of the chip you've just filled. Resorted to wet sanding each filled chip with 3000 grit and polishing out. Not the end of the world but was £40 for the kit. I'd probably just buy colour matched paint from Porsche next time. 

  3. On 3/23/2024 at 10:46 AM, vroomba said:

    Glad you are enoying the vids so far guys.  Will be posting more on this forum shortly. It's good to be back in a Boxster!  Neil

     

    Saw the Video last night that you're going full time. Best of luck! If you'd like to create any content with a newer 987.2 S I'd be more than happy for you to use my car for driving comparisons or buyers guides etc 🙂

    • Like 1
  4. Picked her up from the friendly Oxfordshire based specialist today. This time crossover tubes were on the agenda. Bill shows 12 pieces changed and a couple of supports / brackets and ofc coolant. Came to just over 1K all in which I'm pretty happy with. Didnt get to enjoy a drive on the way home though as most of the roads around here are flooded 😔

  5. 2 hours ago, Mattman42 said:

    don't you just love Porsche tax!  :(

    It's certainly an expensive month 😂 

    Tyres are a lot more expensive being 19's Vs the price of 18's. Had to be done though, car is being used for our wedding this year and the road trip for the stag 🤩

  6. Booked mine in for some TLC. Firstly a set of Conti SC7's being fitted, and secondly the crossover pipes being replaced. Its been using coolant slowly over that last few months and damp pipes were spotted last time it went for a service, I replaced the coolant cap with the latest part but there was no residue on the old one and its not made a difference, so pipes it is! What is surprising is the price difference I was quoted to replace them. 1 specialist quoted £1719+VAT while my local quoted £850+vat. Needless to say I've opted for the latter price! Near enough 2k for the tyres and Crossover pipes + some other small jobs, but its a great car that thoroughly deserves it 

  7. Changed the brake fluid as the pedal was starting to get a bit soft. Firmer pedal now and would have been only a 10 minute job (with a helper in the car) had I not dropped the reservoir cap down the side of the reservoir and under the myriad of plastic covers 😅

    Carefully positioned wheels meant I didn't need to jack up the car and had enough room to open and close the bleed nipple through the spokes, easy peasy!
     

  8. Just now, Paul P said:

    Sorry.  Think I lost context in the middle there.  The 13 mpg was the jag.  Not the 3.4.  That gets around 28 if I commute in it.  
     

    the jag was comical in its thirst.  But I didn’t care for the use case I had for it.  

    Ahh my bad! I can imagine the Jag was thirsty. I bought an X308 XJR when I was 21 (was cheaper to insure than my 1.4L polo at the time), but it was doing about 15mpg lol, absolutely LOVED that car! 

  9. On 2/2/2024 at 10:46 PM, Paul P said:

    For sure.  It’s good.  But it’s not remarkable like the 2.9. All the rhetoric of “right foot and the “music” of the engine” and the “buy a diesel if you care about mpg” aside that engine turns in some impressive real world numbers. 

    Oh and for reference.  V12 Jag.  5.3 litres.  3.5 miles. Up hill. Standing start. Crested the hill at 135 on the clock (“private test track”).  I gallon used.  

    So yeah. Talk to me about “fuel consumption”. 

    13 mpg on a commute to London, where the 2.9 got 36. 

    Wow that does seem low. Worst i've seen on my 3.4 is about 22mpg on the road but I dont live near / commute into London. A normal journey see's mid to high 20's generally 

  10. 7 hours ago, Paul P said:

    my 2.9 used to impress me with consumption figures on decent runs - even in commuting traffic it gave better mpg than my old toyota did.

     

    the current 3.4 - less so - have to try really hard to see more than 35mpg and thats on long motorway runs at constant speed.

    35mpg really isnt bad for a 3.4L engine. Our other car is an i30N and it does about 35mpg on a run despite being a 2L 4 pot and about 10 years newer !

  11. Whats the general consensus on tyres? The Potenza's that are on the car need to be replaced before the next MOT really so looking to get some new tyres over the coming weeks. Need 19" tyres so have been pulled towards the Conti SC7 or Eagle F1 SuperSport both about the same price really. I dont do the milage to justify the extra £300 a set for the Michelin PS4S although they are a pretty good tyre. 

  12. On 11/16/2023 at 7:11 PM, Blakey said:

    I made my own replacement for the baffle,  it's 3D printed from TPU (hard rubber like) has the 'ribbed' flange to press fit in and most importantly a radius input for better flow. It also allowed a closed cell foam strip to be fitted that stopped the snorkel from rattling..

    five.jpg

    three.jpg

    two.jpg

    Do you sell these? if you dont.. you should, i'd buy one!

    • Like 1
  13. On 11/11/2023 at 9:09 PM, nelmo said:

    Never see the point of remapping a factory car - they've spent millions getting it right, no aftermarket guy is going to make it better. If the engine is running rough, you've got some other root cause you should look at. You might do it to get 20bhp extra, I guess but I doubt you'll notice that on the road. My son has spent £450 remapping his car and I can't tell any difference (although only as a passenger) - he insists it feels 'better' but wishful thinking IMO.

    In the kit car world, we all get remaps because we're throwing engines, gearboxes, diffs etc together that were never really designed to go together,  so a remap makes a big difference.

    If only people knew what working in the engineering team at an OEM was really like. Ultimately the engineers dont really spend as much time (as they'd like) getting perfecting the 'map' as requirements are primarily based on Cost to develop, Fuel Economy, Cost to develop, Warranty failures aaaand Cost to develop. Hence why pretty much every road car, bike etc all has a one size fits all map. Dont forget that peak power isnt what makes a car quick, its the area under the curve. Id take a car that makes an extra 10hp from 2k rpm to 7250rpm rather than one that makes 20hp extra from 6500- 7250rpm. It's not just power too, I've had bike remapped in the past that took me from 155hp at the wheel to 157hp at the wheel, barely a noticable difference on paper but the way the power came in was far, far better.  

    • Like 3
  14. 2 hours ago, And.rs1800 said:

    😂😂😂

     

     

    2 hours ago, bally4563 said:

    Still don’t get it and still don’t understand why you Need to , right foot is for pressing down hard and the odd occasion use the brake , this I learnt from another member on here!!!!

    Keep the car settled on corner entry / stops the rears from trying to lock when you're braking hard and engine braking too. Makes a big difference in the wet and is amazing when you get 3 or 4 perfect heel & toe blips into a corner 

     

    Anyways I bought some M8 A2 Stainless bolts and M8 Brass nuts to replace the corroded Cat->Back box link. Changed them on both sides and used 2x brass nuts on each bolt to securely fasten them. Glad I took the time to do both sides as the nuts on the driver's side were pretty much non-existent. Whilst I was there I fitted a set of hubcentric wheel spacers 7mm front and 15mm rear. Cars looks great with the extra width, much more purposeful 

  15. Coming home from dinner last night I was enjoying the wet yet quiet roads when the car didn't quite feel right. I pushed on but slightly more gently and the exhaust started to get more bassy and louder. The link between the Cat and the Catback was loose, 2 bolts completely disappeared and it was only being held in by 1 bolt (no nut). I think the OEM studs have previously been replaced as it has a Carnewal system and the fasteners were A2 bolts. I have secured the exhaust for now with high quality fasteners from my stash but ideally would like to replace with something that A won't corrode from damp & B won't undergo galvanic corrosion. What's the best bet ? High quality stainless bolts with brass or copper nuts ? Or high quality M8 stainless bolts + Nuts ? 

    Reluctant to use Ti as it's a bastard to remove if seized and could seize due to dissimilarity of metals ? 

     

     

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