Jcn27

Got mine back from D&G Porsche today. Great service as ever from them. Rms / ims seals replaced so the oil leak is now fixed.

I'm off tomorrow so I'll be fixing the drivers window that has developed a mind of its own. New latch and door switch to try and sort that.

I think you're right on the 2 problems. I'll get the latch changed and see if that fixes the up/down issue.

Hi all

I seem to have developed a new window fault today.

When I open the door the window drop as it should, when I close the door the window goes back up then drops again. It repeats this action multiple times then eventually settles. This can be either up or down.

The other odd thing is that the window will always go down from the switch but sometimes you get no response from the switch when you put it back up.  Leave it a couple of minutes and switch will work again.

I had this on the passenger door a couple of time last year but it just stopped doing it.

It may be the rear control unit but i cant see any evidence of damp or damage to it. Anyone got any ideas what could cause this. I've done the reset procedure but it's not made any difference.

Thanks

On 2/28/2024 at 1:05 PM, bally4563 said:

What haven’t you done today!!

@Chukkieegg attempted to repair his snapped window regulator, got it all stripped out and started replacing, only to find it didn’t fit, who new there were two types for the early 987 , we didn’t…. We do , made car safe to drive …..to be resumed later 😫😂

Interested to know where you sorce the regulator from. I need one for the drivers side but the ones for 2005 cars seem hard to come by without going oem and swallowing the associated cost.

Thanks @Cocky I'll get my car sorted then drop you a pm.

I agree, decision made. I'll get it booked in tomorrow.

If anyone sees me at a meet (its unlikely as there isn't many up here) please don't comment on my shoddy paint. 🤣

Cars a 2005 but has the bigger bearing. When I first got it I had it checked, that's how it ended up with a new clutch. I wasn't really worried about the ims.

It's enough to drip but it's not allover the underside of the car.

The car doesn't get used much so I don't really know how long it been dripping for.

Hi all

So I think I know the answer to this question with my sensible head on but wouldn't mine some input from others.

I've put blood sweat and tears into the mechanicals of my car over the last couple of years and thought is was completely sorted. Yesterday I discovered an oil leak between the gearbox and engine. This is annoying as it had a clutch a couple of years ago and I'm sure the rms was done as well but it's not on the paperwork.

Here's the question, the car heavily stone chipped across the front and I was about to book it in for a front end respray. Do I fix the rms leak or live with it for now and get the body work corrected, I can't really do both at the moment.

Fixed the passenger window on mine today. Been catching since I bought the car 6 years ago. Finally made it to the top of the jobs list.

Thought it would need a new regulator but when I got into the door it had already been replaced. The window just hadn't been aligned properly.

Bit of a celebration for me today.  Car passed its mot after 18 months while I did the brake pipes, coolent pipes and suspension refresh.

Couldn't have done it without this forum so thanks to all.

Hi all

Just been putting the front of my car back together after refreshing suspension, brake pipes and coolant pipes at the front.

Got to the last nut that holds the back of the cross brace on and the stud is just spinning.

Has anyone encountered this before, it looks to me like I'll have to drop the subframe out and have a new stud pressed in.

If anyone has already had to deal with this and has a fix that doesn't involve that a bit of guidance would be appreciated!

Thanks for that, threadlock it is.😀

Hi all

Just a quick question, I've had the front subframe down to do the coolant and brake pipes. It's now back up but should there be threadlock on the bolts?

I've got the torque specs but there's no mention of threadlock. The bolts do have a blue residue on them in places though?

Given the  potential time I could put into trying to sort that out I'll just strip the other side and take them to the local indi. It's probably a better use of time and money anyway.

Feel like I could be fitting a battle I may not win.

Hi all, just been in the garage attempting to put the strut back together but my spring compressors won't compressor the spring enough. Those that have done this kind of job before what type of Compressor do you use?

Just wondering if its worth forking out for a hydraulic one.

Thanks

Just as an update, block of wood and big hammer shifted it in about 30 seconds. 🙂

Thanks all, I'll get stuck in this afternoon.

Thanks, where's best to hit it. I'm always careful when the big hammer comes out, I don't have a great history in hitting things without causing damage!

Hello all, I've been a member on here a little while and done the odd post but you can expect a lot more question over the next few months as I've got a load of work to do on my car! I have a 2005 987 2.7 that has the usual problem.

I'm current replacing the front strut top mounts and control arms but have hit my first snag.  Managed to get the drop link out using the usual cutting and impact method, swung the strut out thinking it would come straight out the carrier but it appears to be seized solid.  Technically I don't need it out as it doesn't need to be being changed but as I'm going to have it off the car thought it would be prudent to sort it ready for when new shocks are required.

Any advise would be appreciated.