Obela

Could be, but I found another one just in front of the wheel arch

Hello chaps,

need a bit of help.. I'm replacing the rear break discs and pads, and have noticed this hose that is not connected to anything... what is it and should it be like this? Car is running excellent!

thanks!

Interesting!

where does one get those clips shown in the video, in case this has not yet been serviced in the past? 

Hi all,

Looking for advice on a problem I had with the car for a while now but never really got round to sort. 
When opening the door (both from inside and outside) the automatic window drop seems to be working a bit slowly, so that it catches the sill slightly. It results in a slightly rough door opening as the window shakes a bit. This does not happen on the passenger side. What I've been doing to avoid it catching on the sill is pulling the door handle and waiting a second for the window to drop, but I sometimes forget and honestly it's getting a bit annoying, so it needs sorting out. 
 

has anyone experienced this problem with their car? Is it likely to be a window relay problem or a microswitch? 
 

any advice welcome!

Any recommendations for a strong thin double sided tape?

How necessary are these (part numbers 99635208602 and 99635208600) when replacing break discs and pads, or is it possible to use the existing ones on the new pads (by gluing the old ones I suppose..)?

For the rear axle the price of buying them new is about £85 and considering I can purchase the discs and pads for less than £100, it seems quite expensive!

Thanks for your help!

Thoughts? Very tempting but £1800 is a big chunk of the entire car value for 987.1s 😕

Thanks for the advice, I didn’t think that was the case. Will know for next time. I’ve ordered a new one already so I guess I can sell my old one if anyone is interested!

That was the initial plan! But the picture of the middle part of the ARB is actually after a good few minutes of wire brushing with a drill. Rust seems much deeper than just surface. 

Here is a link to the photos. Couldn’t upload directly to the forum

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jgzthttgorqmx7x/AADxRZ2_ex0DrzP2caAt2Wcja?dl=0
 

Thank you! 

Replaced the drop links and bushings for the ARB yesterday only to find that the ARB is rusted without any hope of repair!

I’m trying to see if I can find a used one in good condition but I’m a bit confused about the part numbers. On mine it says 987.333.701.02 but browsing the web I can only find 987.333.701.04 or 05. 

Does anyone know if these are the same? My car is 05 plate 987.1 S with PASM. 
I know there are different bushings for the cars with PASM 19.8mm vs 19.2mm on the normal suspension, so does that mean the ARB is different too?

4 hours ago, Macus said:

http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=1249875&sid=830af855448cfef14414306dec5c5779
 

here is the thread. I think I have a few PDFs showing the wiring of the latching relay too. 

Thank you!! 

There are YouTube videos from Porsche club North America featuring the guy that invented the IMS bearing solution with the oil feed. He claims that he would never replace an IMS where the old IMS had already failed, as the metal flakes would have caused havoc everywhere in the engine. Not sure what that means about the success of the rebuild. 
This is not my opinion, I’m not a mechanic and have limited knowledge, just passing on the information I’ve leant watching the videos. 
Why not look for a 2006 >> model where you know the upgraded IMS is installed and failure rates are very low? There are so many for sale out there. 

On 12/3/2022 at 10:08 PM, Macus said:

I retrofitted the OEM control panel under the climate control, you have to build a voltage divider to make the switch light up but now works as the factory sports exhaust. 

Would love to read a “how to” section about this  

With photos if you’ve got any!  

Thanks! This is for the ball joint I assume. What about the asymmetrical bolt to the chassis? I found 120 Nm but that was for a 997.1, I’m assuming it’s the same?

Does anyone know the torque spec for the rear back tie rod with the ball joint? 

Happen on rough or uneven surfaces, bumps too, it’s worse at low speed and when the car is cold 

The noise is so bad in my car that even my wife commented on it! 
have you tried inspecting the suspension while the load is taken off (i.e. by resting the wheel carrier on something like planks of wood and lowering the jack)? I’ve read that it’s often impossible to identify loose ball joints when they are under load.
I’m hoping to get to the bottom of the problem because it is really annoying, but your experience doesn’t inspire much confidence in me… 

Thank you for the answer, yeah I figured the drive shaft must be able to travel in that direction but wasn’t sure if the metal sounds in the end of travel are normal. 

I have checked the spring and it is correctly seated in the shock absorber platform. The car has a greatly detailed history so I can fairly confidently say that apart from the tuning forks, no other suspension components have been replaced, so I’m assuming all are still in their original position from factory. 

Hello chaps,

Been a passive member of this forum for 2-3 years now. This is my first post so please be kind  

I've had a clank sound from rear O/S on my 05 3.2 Boxster S for a while now and would really like to get to the bottom of it. The car had several inspections in the last 2 years, including a service at Porsche recently, and no issues had been reported. No leaking from shocks, no badly warn bushings or play in any suspension components. I’ve replaced the tuning forks at a local indi which didn’t help at all with the noise. 
I’ve decided to investigate myself today. Now I’m no mechanic and do not proclaim to have any particular mechanical knowledge, but I also could not find any play in the suspension when the car was on a jack and the wheel off, nor could I replicate the knock sound from the suspension. 
What I did find, however, was a play in the drive shaft when I pulled and pushed on it in the direction towards and away from the gearbox, and the end of the play on both sides made a metal on metal sound, which I thought was quite similar to what I am hearing while driving. 
question is - is such play is normal? I’m assuming the drive shaft must be able to have a bit of a play in that direction, but is the metal knock normal or should it be dampen by grease normally? I could not see any breaks in the CV boots or any signs of leaking grease. 

would really appreciate some advice in the matter as I gather it’s quite a big job to rebuild the inner CV joint and very expensive if drive shaft needs replacing, and would like to avoid it if it’s not the source of my problem… 

Any help would be much appreciated!

Omri