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sjqprod

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Posts posted by sjqprod

  1. ...I check drainage points and also 'cover' the car when parked, so less to worry about if raining between drives.

    I have a soft cover then this breathable one on the top. Also great if you clean the car, doesn't get bird poo straight on it after cleaning.

     

    covered.jpg.06bd6a2d54ba07edb34089a7854aa8e3.jpg

  2. Hey Everyone,

    Just to close this off for any newbees that may have found it.
    The leak was not 'bad crimping', it was faulty part from Porsche, that is now replaced and working fine, no leaks. happy days.
    My steering rack was reconditioned last year and the return pipe/hoses from the pump became the wekapoint (it appeaed).

    The whole section of pipe was replaced and tested, and all good.

     

    sean

  3. Hey,

     

    For anyone following this, or that finds it in the future.

    I replaced the bottle cap (as advised above) and this seems to have stopped the micro leak (after a big drive).
    It appears that the previous cap was not allowing pressure to escape the cooling system.

    Thanks all.

     

    Sean

  4. Hi Guys,

    Last October I got the whole steering rack reconditioned, as this had leaks (so solid at the front). I recently discovered a very slow leak and it turned out to be the return hose, near the engine (had it fixed, took a few hours).
    I appear to still have a leak near this NEW hose that was replaced. I need to get it all cleaned up to know exactly where it's coming from. These old cars, it could be any number of seals.
    As I say very slow, leak takes weeks before I need to top up (30ml). I am reticent to take the car back to the mechanic for the 3rd time, it's starting to add up (hoses, fluid and labour). It's a tricky area to work in.

    I have a couple of driving holidays coming up, was keen to use a stop leak additive that trusted Porsche retailers recommend for a 987. 

    Reconditions and replenishes rubber seals and components   - is this OK to do temporarily? I'll need to take the car in again, all the fluid will be drained out. Keen to do this after the summer.

    Feedback on the 'stop leak additive' please!

  5. 3 hours ago, JonSta said:

    Cheapest first try solution is the filler cap. You want the one that ends 04.  For some reason that I can't explain replacing mine cured a tiny drip at the front. Actually I've read somewher that the vent on the earlier part numbers is suspect. After you turn the engine off it can get hotter which increases pressure in the system. If it doesn't vent like it should the pressure finds another way out. Worked for me.

    I have a spare original cap in my car (came with the car) with the same ID number, but ends in .01 not (04). Theres a different cap on the car though, with NO product ID.

    When i take the cap off after letting. the car cool, quite a bit of pressure and air comes out. Obviously current cap not letting the system breath.

    cap.jpg

  6. 4 hours ago, Lennym1984 said:

    Have you checked the water pump? They have a weep hole and will start to weep before they die.

    I wouldn't be surprised, as this was next on my list of things to replace. I have no facility to get under the car properly, so will visit a mechanic, get the try off and have a proper look.

  7. 14 hours ago, edc said:

    I'd avoid using these. Have the system pressure tested and the leak should be more apparent and easier to confirm the source. At that end the tank, cap and pump are all suspect and in close proximity. 

    Hey - thanks for this. I thought the seal would be OK as it's approved for cross-flow cooling systems. It was only a temp thing as I don't have time to get this to a mechanic ATM, but still driving the car locally.

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