DisplayName

So I oringally had another (running) car with the leads from it to the said jump points and no dice, tried the usual trick of moving the negative around on the jump car and mine to find a good circuit. After trying this I searched found a person with the same disconnected battery (in the US) and they also couldn't get it to work, so they'd assumed it had no circuit because of the missing battery and moved onto the cable release method.

Mate found this thread (who had the exact same issue of a disconnected battery) and it worked for them.

I decided to try it again as an RAC tow to a garage so they can crowbar into my car wasn't very appealing. I removed the battery and hooked it up and it worked first time. 🤷‍♂️ 🤦‍♂️

So, hopefully if anyone finds this thread on Google, and you've also feked up like me, try a battery direct to the car and not from a car when it's running.

Thanks for you help both, I'm going to have a sit down and chill as I was annoyed it was going to get expensive for such a simple mistake.... oh, and find out where that release cables run off to.

So I've gone to use the release cable on my frunk annnnnd.. it's not there. The grommet it should live in is there so I assume it's been broken off on a previous owners usage.

I can't get into the frunk because I disconnected the battery and then closed the frunk (whoops) so the jumping method with the live access in the drivers foot well isn't working either (I assume the battery forms part of the circuit.

Does anyone know how I can now get in the frunk?

1 hour ago, SpeedyGee said:

Finished cutting and polishing, was meant to move on to waxing but got distracted by the brake shoes arriving.

wowza

I would get a rubber tie of some sort to hold those cranks in place too... just in case 😱

Looks solid overall 👍

I bid £10,000

Booked in with an Indy that's quoted £1200 for the pipes from the crossover back to the engine 💀

Further to the concesensus - I have a TopGear Manifold,valved backbox and sport cats and when it's open it's loud, too loud in most scenarios. Fine for that odd time 🤪

Mate's going to France and needs an emission sticker for his car, just fyi if you wern't already aware

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/law-change-for-uk-drivers-in-french-cities/

On 5/10/2022 at 6:53 PM, Boxer boy said:

Porsche tick

• loose spark plugs: Free
• injector ticking: I would suggest using a couple of cans of LiquiMoly Jectron Fuel Injector Cleaner (one at the time, back to back with full tank of gas)
• stuck lifters: Again, Liqui Moly Lifter Additive
• Loose exhaust manifold bolt (s) 
• Water pump on its way out .
• piston skirt slapping: Unfortunately the only cure for this is to disassemble the engine and get a new set of LN Nickies..

Interesting, I've got the ticking issue too that I'm looking to cure. For me it's not the plugs or manifold bolts but a pump on the way out is something I'll have to look into as I'm also losing coolant somwhere and I've no idea where.

Nice mix of cars 👌

Mines going in for a leaking front end this week. Is there anything else worth doing while the subframe is dropped, top mounts?

21 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Given those are genuine Porsche parts maybe check with OPC Bristol re price/availability (ask for discount too) ?

Good idea! Just called them and the fitting kit is in stock, but they're stuck in storage which is computer controller and is down this morning 😆.

I also called design911 and they agreed I had the right part it's just missing off the site for my car specifically. Hopefully I'll get them mid week so it's ready for next weekend.

Attepmted the discs and pads yesterday. Front drivers side went according to plan:

Rear drivers.... a seized slide pin!

My punch wasn't doing anything and I didn't have any penetrating fluid (now 4PM on a Bank Holiday). A number of posts on here with the same issue and they resorted to cutting the pin out, so one cut pin later:

I didn't order a rear fitting kit so the cars off the road until that arrives 🙄 ECP/GSF don't stock the parts and design911 don't list it specifically for my car but I found this https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod5013/Brake-Pad-Pin-Kit-Porsche-996---997---986---987---987C-99635295901/ ...which states "986 Boxster S 3.2L Rear / 987.2 Boxster 2.9L / S 3.4L Rear".

design911 then also have the same rear caliper listed (here) for the 986 S through to to 987.2 S so I'm hoping it's going to fit.

Brilliant, thank you YorkshireBoxster

23 hours ago, YorkshireBoxster said:

Replaced the worn heater/temp buttons. Easy job and would've finished it before my brew went cold had the little push rods fallen out of the unit. Noticed it when I screwed it back together and the switch wasn't "switching" haha

Where did you get these from please? It's a job on my list

11 hours ago, Gramps said:

Morning DisplayName .Thanks for your reply. Yes the playback sounds like it is breaking up, could obviously be the quality of the mike. The camera is an Akaso EK7000, not the best I know but pricewise I thought I'd give it a try. I did have a GoPro Hero but that went for posh one when it was on my track bike that got trashed 😭. As mentioned the sound is better when the car is static, but I think the road and wind noise once moving is too much. 

If you've not got a 3.5mm mic-in then you'll need a compatible USB mic. Unfortunately it's never obvious if a generic USB mic will work with camera XYZ, so some Googling of the exact model number and mic suggestions may help find something on Amazon/Ebay. As JonSta mentioned you'll struggle to get a good sound out of the inbuilt one but a bit of fabric may help a little bit.

How is the sound recording not working? Does the sound playback sound like it's breaking up? Or is the sound of the exhuast being drowned out by the wind noise?

I believe if it's breaking up: a better quality mic? What exact device are you using?

If it's wind noise then a dead cat / windscreen on the microphone solution