swang

Report back: the issue is caused by the hood mechanism needs fluid and grease, once that's fixed, the noise disappeared.

Fix one image link

Like driving around town for groceries, school runs, etc. with the hood up. I’ve heard the nose is very low, is it gonna be an issue with normal London speed bumps? I really like the 981 spyder, I’m sure it makes a great weekend fun car, but it will the most expensive car I ever bought, can’t help but thinking I want to drive it as much as possible.

If you want to know what it sounds like: https://imgur.com/a/g2BuLGn

Thanks guys, I gave it another look today, I found the same noise when unleash the hood lock inside. I’m pretty sure it’s just where the latch hooks to the top of windscreen on the driver side. I took a couple of photos but to be honest there’s not much to see, because the passenger side looks identical and doesn’t rattle. I checked all the screws are pretty tight too.
https://imgur.com/gallery/ggEYDw6

then I tried to tape a bit of kitchen tissue around the hook and it made the rattle disappear(apologies for the shoddy work:))

https://imgur.com/gallery/nsWBInM
 

I think the root cause might actually be what Daboy3000 said, I recognise that picture, and I noice when the hood retrieves that piece rattles for 2 seconds during the action, on the driver side only. Almost like it needs some lubricants. I wonder if that caused the hood to not seal perfectly, me washing is just a coincidence.

Hey guys, I gave the boxster a thorough clean last weekend, now on the driver side where the hood meets the A pilar rattles, it’s like there’s a gap in between. I checked the rubber and they look fine to me. Could this be the hood cable needs adjusting? Or just me removing the mud and grease that was there previously:)

1 minute ago, iborguk said:

Still maybe worth a convo, especially if you've only recently bought the car from them.

ya, I'll give them a call, I do have a 1yr warranty on this so I can probably fix it elsewhere if it's proven to be a problem.

they are a bit far, guess I'll have to find a local specialists to give it a look/hear

2 minutes ago, iborguk said:

What state is the exhaust in ?

 

hm...good? honestly I don't know, I recently bought it from a very reputable specialist with a service carried out. Other than the noise I can't see or feel anything wrong with the car, but this is my first boxster so I have nothing to compare with.

Just listened to it again, I think the noise only occurs when the rev crosses 1000 RPM, sometimes it happens when rev drops from above 1000 to below, I added another recording, you can hear the noise at seconds 2, 6,7, 9.

I googled a bit and for vacuum I think the noise should be persistent? 

BTW, my idle is like 950 RPM, is that normal for the 2.7L engine? 5.m4a

No the revs doesn’t move when this occurs, what is a vacuum leak?

Attempted to install Mr12volts bluetooth kit, was not successful, realised I have no idea how to connect the power and ground wire...

After taking the cdc unit out, I can't push it back because the cables were in the way, so I removed the air con control to return cdc to its original place, then found I can't put the air con control back...took me half an hour to realise the guiding pieces needs to be screwed on first. 

I did gave the cdc uint a good clean🙃

I noticed there's brief coughing noise coming from the exhaust or engine, I've attached some recording, it's not obvious, but you can hear it twice in the recording, once at beginning once at the end. Is this something I need to worry about? Tried to rev the engine but the cough neither increase in volume nor in frequency.

Untitled1.m4a

What’s the technical reason behind making LED conversion mot failure, was it just to prevent people from putting overly bright lights in?

13 hours ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Possibly.

Having been through this journey myself, there are only two effective routes to better light output on cars with halogens / reflector housings.

1. Upgrade to litronics (and refresh the bulbs).

2. Use a decent LED kit such as this: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/piaa-hyper-arros-led-h7-twin

 

My old 2.7 had factory litronics, and it was clear how bad the standard lights are when I got my 3.2 with halogens. Have since replaced this with litronics. I use the PIAA kit in another car which had halogens / reflectors - need to get the beam pattern checked / aligned, but at first glance all seems well, and haven't had oncoming traffic flashing me. YMMV with other kits which are built to a price point.

The PIAAs are (at least) as good as litronics (with fresh Nightbreaker D2S bulbs), and they will fit fine in the stock halogen lamps. The design of the lamps means there's space for the LED driver units too.

LEDs run cool - it's the electronics that get hot. As such, no chance of lens burn.

I looked at this in the past too, but the link says they are not road legal?

I noticed my passenger door handle is a bit loose, it moves a bit when I use the door handle. How is this thing fixed, do I need to remove the door card from interior to tighten it?

waiting for mine too, OPC said it can take up to 8 weeks

43 minutes ago, Simon said:

Can you not get the PS4s ? Notice the little s - totally different tyre to the Pilot Sport 4.

S

Not for the profiles I needed

BTW, my current rear is Bridgestone Potenza S02A, how are these tyres, can't find them on blackcircles, they have kind of poor reviews on tyrereviews, anyone know how good/bad are they?

3 hours ago, brillomaster said:

have you priced up Goodyear Eagle F1 5s? 98% of the performance of a PS4, but only 85% of the cost... still a very very good tyre...

they are £80 cheaper all round than PS4, I'll only drive about 2-3000 miles/year, so probably only need to replace tyres once every 4-5 years, the saving doesn't really make that much difference. The rear one 265/35 has mediocre reviews on blackcircles: https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/goodyear/eagle-f1-asymmetric-5/265/35/R18/Y/97/f?tyre=38935178#reviewsOverviewOuter, maybe it's just low sampling rate.

I need 225/40 front and 265/35 rear, looking at blackcircles I see PS2 with N3 rating and PS4 without N rating, which ones are better if I'm more concerned about riding quality than handling at extreme?

I saw old threads about PS4 > PS2 but was that compared with the N3 version? What does the N rating mean exactly? Price wise the rear cost about the same, but PS4 is £60 a pair cheaper at front.

glad to know it's normal!

I noticed this on day 1, I thought it’s something can be turned up, but can’t find an option in the onboard computer. I guess there’s nothing I can do about it?

On 11/14/2021 at 9:57 PM, ½cwt said:

It is not actually a screw, it is a plastic expansion river with a T25 head on it. 999 591 941 00

many thanks!

I have replaced the ashtray on my 986 with  the non-smoke tray, however, the ashtray didn’t have any screws to the centre console, guess someone had been there before, what screw should I have there? Would these work: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363311913990?chn=ps&var=632520120271&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1qpBhjnWHRFicfJW-wwVxog28&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=632520120271_363311913990&targetid=1394813963900&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006668&poi=&campaignid=14476164386&mkgroupid=125428909646&rlsatarget=pla-1394813963900&abcId=9300650&merchantid=7269554&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1eeJsbR_93NJZlk-zG7bHIgT&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhMOMBhDhARIsAPVml-HR98ISvbLTnr6FcvmLYKF5x4xdlEF0OvHEITsRzeCXmWKGLur2GnYaAtZXEALw_wcB