Fat Rat

All the best with the box. Hope it is a fix, but sounds a bit terminal. 😬

Finally got round to changing the tuning forks. Those bloody plastic nuts on the under tray. 🤬. The suspect one felt loose but I could feel no play when in the vice, so was dubious that it would cure the problem. But on a test drive I no longer have snooker balls in the bottom corner pocket. First time I have driven around looking for pot holes. 😂. I do have a rattle from some exhaust heat cover or something that I had forgotten about. Noticed oil on the air con pipes. AOS was a bit oily, so guess that will need doing. 

Tried on my new to me excellent condition cover. Very pleased.

9 hours ago, BS62 said:

It interesting, I hear this a lot and agree that old P Zeros are garbage. Mine also came with old fronts and new ones were magnitudes better.
But I haven't spoken to anyone who has done a new for new comparison, interested in hearing if anyone has that experience too. 

2nd that. My car came with old P zeros that looked perfect. But, we’re a handling fiasco. Especially when the temps dropped. Kept well clear of them after that. As said, might be great new. 😬

Love the thread. But can’t get my head round why you would want heated seats in a car that has a great big heater behind the seats? Nice in a 356 maybe. 😬🤪😂

Took the car out for a blast to Thames Ditton to pick up a OEM soft cover and thought what was a new 18” cup wheel. The wheel was indeed new but an anniversary 8J or 996 wheel. Gutted. It is as advertised. Brand new. Plan was to swap one over and refurb the other. Sell on the other one to a fella on this site in need of one. Proper school boy error. But the seller is a real gentleman and arranging to pick up and refund. Will check the cover out tomorrow. Meant to be mint. 🤙🏻

5 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Remember torque them up with the wheel in the neutral position as if sitting on flat road. I usually jack up under the ball joint (with a bock of wood or rubber on the jack) to where it just starts to take the weight off the axle stand.

You will need a geometry check afterwards too.

OK, will do.

Does it really need a geo check after changing the tuning forks?

Cheers guys. I will have another go next week, weather permitting. I have gathered some 18mm and 15mm sockets etc as worked out doing something else that they like to pick a few awkward sizes. 🤙🏻

On 4/22/2024 at 9:59 PM, charlieboy2608 said:

Looking at your pictures would I be correct in thinking that the door membrane doesn't need to be disturbed?

As above. Membrane stays on. Just be careful removing the door fittings. Plastic clips etc are brittle after 20 odd years. One of my handle covers broke a clip. Managed to glue. The door card clips are a common breaking point. 🤙🏻

3 hours ago, TROOPER88 said:

Captive nut Sir

Thanks Paul. That is what I wanted to hear. 🤙🏻

Plan today was to replace the tuning forks and exhaust. Unfortunately rain stopped play. I did take the wheel off on the side I have a snooker ball and had a look. I will need to get the under tray off for better access, but my question is.

Is the top nut on the bush end fixed or do I need to get a spanner on it somehow?

Ta. 🤙🏻

My after market 5 1/4” fitted snug in my boxes.

Just had to slot the mounting holes. Some will fit straight in.

Nice bush fix, hope it holds. I thought the rivet held a stop or something. Guess the rivet is the stop. 🤪🤙🏻

On 4/13/2024 at 3:52 PM, fizz said:

Sp looks like the replacement didn't come with the little bolt stopper thing... any ideas what I can fudge in the mean time? 

 

Can you not drill the rivet out of the one you remove and rivet onto the newly acquired part. If no rivets or rivet gun, a small bolt with a nyloc nut?

Happy days. As mentioned, the only stamping on the ones I have and have changed is R & L appropriately. 👍

1 minute ago, Boxsum said:

Are they plastic capped ? 
Have they a TRW stamp on them ? 
Be interesting to know for comparison. 
I’m sending it back regardless as the socket is do free to move , I can barely move the other ones .

Yes,

No. Just L & R. same as the ones I removed.

Tighter doesn't always mean better. Joint looks totally different. Proof is in the pudding. But I believe your plastic cap one to be an original if it is stamped up.

I have a pair at home that are French versions from 2 different suppliers. See no different to the ones fitted to the car and the rears that i removed last year.

They had been on a fair while and weren't to bad.

Very much the same as the Meyle ones I fitted last year.

Your Turkish one was manufactured week 43/23, cannot see the French date as covered up. 

Maybe TRW have moved the manufacture to Turkey as cheaper?

1 hour ago, MickH said:

I tried to contact Wayne multiple times and no reply.  Is there a magic way to get a hold of the Wizard?

Dare I say it. 😶

He lives in the emerald city and if you don't have a broomstick!

Follow The Yellow Brick Road! 😂👍

9 hours ago, edc said:

Is it going to take the heat? Why paint that section as it's up against the car? 

Yes, takes the heat. It is a paint for exhaust systems, cylinder heads and blocks. Friend has had it on his system for a couple of years. No issues. Why? Bit of a tart I suppose. 💁‍♂️. Covers up the scars. Not that anyone will see it. 🤪

14 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Whit primer did you use on the stainless?

Surface was scoured. Brushed on cylinder paint. Said it did not need a primer. See what happens. 😬

Well, today, top got 2 coats of satin black. Feel like a wheeler dealer. 😬. Getting close. Got this gut feeling it is going to be to loud. 🤪.

Hope it all goes OK and welcome back to Boxster world if it does. 👍

If it does, I am expecting the type to get EVEN BIGGER! 😂

Bit of progress with my exhaust project. Bracket for tips welded on and working as it should. New stainless bolts machined and welded on for the bracket that I still have not got. 😬

56 minutes ago, Bradders59 said:

Removed the headlights to do a bit of restoration on the lenses and fit new dip and sidelight bulbs.

On refitting I had the same issue with both. Cant get the wiring plugs to connect properly.

Currently have only a sidelight on one side and only main beam on the other.

Both connectors have quite a bit of movement in the holders, and I can see that some of the plastic has broken off on the connectors where they sit in the holder..

Im guessing I will have to remove front wheels and arch liners and push the connectors in from the rear ?

Not teaching your Grandma to suck eggs or such, but you did use the headlight tool to latch the headlight back in until it clicked?

@TROOPER88 is in Sunbury. He done a API for me as I had already bought the car. 😂. All good. You would need to get the car to him though as he puts it on a lift, so you get to see underneath. 🤙🏻 Worth it.

Happy Easter. 🐣

20 hours ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Are you referring to these? (Clearing out with trombone cleaner)

 

 

Any idea where these drain to?

The foam drip trays have a tube that emerges near the rear 'mudflaps'.

 

Can’t remember. Will find out soon when I do a drain clean and check. 😂🤙🏻