nelmo

17 hours ago, Slomofo said:

fluctuates between 12.5v and 14.3v

The 2005 Ford Zetec engine in my kit car does the same, low at idle and increases to a maximum as the revs rise, which seems logical; higher revs -> faster speed on the alternator -> higher charging voltage. Never checked on my more modern Skoda - I assumed it would be the same but maybe not?

On 5/2/2024 at 7:39 PM, nelmo said:

Ordered new front tyres because ever since I changed the wheels and they came with a set of 245s on the front, the tramlining has been very bad. I'm hoping the move back to 235s will sort it out.

£268 for 2 Michelin PS5s is pretty good, I thought....

Also ordered oil and filter for my first oil change (in my ownership, not ever)...

Fitted today and went for a short drive - unbelievable the difference! I know the tyres are new but the old ones still had 3/4mm left, so they weren't bald. They were 5 years old - maybe that was a problem?

Either way, new tyres the right width are a revelation - the ride is back to the relative comfort of old and I didn't notice any tramlining (although I didn't get on to a bad road to check).

Morale of the story: when the factory suggest 235 front tyres, they know of what they speak.

I used one (can't remember which brand) - made zero difference.

10 hours ago, phazed said:

Tramlining is probably caused by your existing tyres being worn. Tramlining is rarely noticeable with new tyres but as the tread wears and the tyre blocks are shorter, there is less flex with the tread, (but more grip on a dry road).

That’s why people think that the problem is solved when new tyres are fitted.

Saying that, some tyres are better than others due to tread pattern.

That sounds very plausible - although when I did have 235s, the tyres were just as worn and it wasn't as bad as it is now. I'm also not used to a pure sports car, I guess - tramlining could be considered 'steering feel' that road testers always go on about 🙂 

Ordered new front tyres because ever since I changed the wheels and they came with a set of 245s on the front, the tramlining has been very bad. I'm hoping the move back to 235s will sort it out.

£268 for 2 Michelin PS5s is pretty good, I thought....

Also ordered oil and filter for my first oil change (in my ownership, not ever)...

11 minutes ago, Paul P said:

just use the built in out the box carplay/aa interface and never update the OS

Ah ok - that's best of both worlds then.... 

59 minutes ago, Paul P said:

You have it both right and wrong. 

Android auto and CarPlay are the “same thing” for the two platform. CarPlay for iOS android auto for android handaets.  It’s a protocol not an app as such - just a way of working together.  
 

both are “external display/input device” for your phone.  The applications on the phone that are capable of using and being interacted with on the head unit appear when connected   

all the apps run on the phone.  you don’t install apps on the head unit if using them in this way  that’s why I  can use (for example) the Porsche roads app on my daily driver ford - it’s installed on my phone and is CarPlay aware   The ford has CarPlay and I can interact with the app  running on my phone through the cars interface   

some android head units can run the common apps directly.  Assuming they have data connectivity and a gps that’s where having a sim in the head unit comes in (or using your phone as a hotspot). If you had data and gps for the head unit than you don’t need a phone to make anything work.  
 

 

Sure but my point is, the AliExpress units are android devices and you are not using Carplay/Android Auto on them. If the unit stops working well (as all my older tablets have done eventually), you cannot just decide to use AA/Carplay instead - you have to bin the AliExpress unit and get a new one.

18 hours ago, Paul P said:

carplay and/or android auto works with your phone

I don't think it works like that, does it? Android Auto is an app on the phone that connects to a non-android device that supports it - that device then can run some apps (Waze, Google Maps, TomTom etc).

You can't run Android Auto on an android device as a standalone app and those AliExpress units are an android device. I do not have an icon on my phone that I click to start AA - it runs in the background and kicks in when you connect via USB to a device that then can use some apps that have been written to work under AA - make sense? Or have I got it wrong?

But you do get much more functionality with the AliExpress units, although you'd need to shell out for a SIM card to make it simpler (can you connect an android device to another android device and share apps?), unless you want the hassle of switching on a hotspot on your phone every time you get in the car?

Tech, hey? Supposed to make life easier....

1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

Consider something with hard volume buttons at the very least. Changing using on screen sliders is very difficult while keeping eyes on the road. 

This is a very good point - I have a Pioneer unit which does not have buttons and it is annoying. However, there are concerns (for me) about the AliExpress stuff:

1. More difficult to install - you have to find power feeds and earths, I believe? My Pioneer and kit was literally plug into existing loom and job done.

2. Hopefully they are better now but 3 or 4 years ago, I bought a similar thing (different car) and it broke twice before I asked for a refund (they were very good at replacing and refunding, though).

3. They are basically an Android device, like a tablet. As such, it will age, it will eventually not be able to accept the latest Android OS and you will get apps that start failing. With Android Auto, the head unit is really just an extension of your phone - as long as your  phone works, Android Auto and the head unit will continue to work.

Just food for thought...

When I bought mine, the stupid sat-nav thought I was in Germany! Changed it for a Pioneer head unit with Android Auto etc.

Do you have to completely remove it? Just lift it up high as you can each side and leave it to dry that way? Throw a few of those dehumidifier bags under it, leave doors open for a few hours when the weather is better - should work eventually, no?

My daughters Aygo had a leak and the boot carpet was soaked. Luckily, easily removed and it dried out after a couple of days on a radiator, although I was amazed it took that long - didn't feel that wet.

Also not a good idea to have that weight on the valve. It's not a lot but when the wheels are spinning that fast, the centripetal force can be enough to damage the valve stem.

Damn!

38 minutes ago, Mattman42 said:

what you really need is a 987.2 thats just about to reach 100k to prove to the naysayers that cars don't explode when they reach this mythical milestone

Oi, stop queue-jumping. My knackered old hack was in before yours....did I mention I've got HobNobs?

1 hour ago, Crudeoink said:

Saw the Video last night that you're going full time. Best of luck! If you'd like to create any content with a newer 987.2 S I'd be more than happy for you to use my car for driving comparisons or buyers guides etc 🙂

...and if you need a 987.1 that needs lots of work and want to do it for your channel, let me know...I've got a pack of HobNobs with your name on it 🙂 

I had a similar roof problem and just replaced the roof switch (£75). Very easy job, several YT vids on how to - might be worth a shot?

20 minutes ago, Hainesy said:

go to a 'high street' type outfit for

I did - much cheaper than Porsche or any indie (£180) and seemed to do a good job - improved ride afterwards. Just make sure they use the Hunter system...

Urgh, sorry to hear you're having so many issues - wish I could help but not had the car long enough or had any of these problems (touch wood). However, if I ever do, you will be the first person I will contact, as you've probably done more than anyone to try fix it...you're the forum pro on waste drains 🙂 

 .

Just now, 832ark said:

Sadly, I’m not a novice - been working on cars for more than 25 years 😁

Ah right - I take it all back....idiot!

Only kidding.... 😉

21 minutes ago, 832ark said:

Just received a very pleasant report from Millers. The news is good, nothing to be concerned about. So the verdict is that I’m an idiot 😁.

I really do appreciate all of the advice/support.

Not an idiot all, just a self-confessed novice who did exactly the right thing - asked people who know more before blindly throwing money at it. Very sensible, good job... 👍

8 hours ago, phazed said:

In my mind, (possibly a little OCD) I really want to keep the MOT history as clean as possible.

Personally, I'm a little suspicious of totally clean MOT histories - makes me wonder if they were actually done and not just a mate with a garage who just signs off for some extra cash. Amazingly, I saw someone openly advertising this on a FB group 😮

Very true - manufacturing tolerances are amazing these days - when did you last see an F1 car retire with an engine failure? Back in the 80s and 90s when I was more interested in F1, it was a common occurrence.

Nowadays, the biggest issue is simply age and corrosion, as we've probably all experienced.

9 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Until it does....

Well, I can only go by my personal experience - I've treated my cars like cr*p; 20k miles between oil changes, using Halfords own-brand oil and sometimes even mixing 5W30 and 10W30 because that's all I had at the time. My 95k mile Suzuki (bike) I had from new had one spark plug change and I don't ever recall changing the brake fluid. My Lexus never had spark plugs done in the 65k miles (3 oil changes) I owned it. The above mentioned bearing shell wear was the worst that has ever happened and that was caused by a friday-afternoon oil pickup pipe in the shortened sump on my kit car - took me 3 months to finally work it out.

It's not really about being miserly (which I am) but I'm just lazy - I'd much rather go on a drive than work on the car or, god forbid, wash it 🙂 

6 hours ago, 832ark said:

The thing is, last time I dropped the oil 2.5k miles ago there was nothing in it. I’m wondering if I’ve just caught it early before the knock starts.

Mine rattled for about 3 months and I drove for 500 miles while I tried various ways to try work out what the problem was. When I finally checked the shells, they had wear streaks in them but the crankshaft was untouched. This is why I find it funny when everyone obsesses over which oil to use, changing spark plugs every year etc; car engines are far more rugged and reliable than car dealers would have you believe...a few tiny flakes with no other symptoms means nothing.