Carmine

I installed an Xtrons head unit in an E53 X5 in 2019 and, if I knew then what I know now, I wouldn’t have done it. (There are quite a few companies and many look to be same unit under a different brand name.)

On paper it was a great idea but the OS implementation was flaky, support was tedious to non-existent and operation was inconsistent. Each day was a cr*p shoot - what source what the unit start with? What volume level? Would CarPlay work? Would today be a day that CarPlay crashed?

if only it did what it said on the tin. Consistently. Every day.

I see they sell a unit for the X5 and even now, 5 years on, it has the same low screen resolution, all of 600 pixels high. Strewth!

Buyer beware.
 

21 hours ago, BBB said:

It’s nothing to do with static electricity, it’s just due to the difference in reactivity of the two metals, but they must have an electrolyte solution between them (usually humidity). 

With a dose of road salt.

Metal valve caps have been used for years without issue - wonder if the plating used on the valves or the caps has been cheapened and now they corrode?

If the pedal went soft then you have a hydraulic issue - quite possibly boiling brake fluid due to water content.

If the pedal stayed firm then you have a pad/disk issue. If you have a dragging caliper then the brake at that corner could well have started off hot and subsequently overheated. In normal driving is one wheel noticeably warmer than on the opposite side?

If you have SORNed a car you can’t renew the tax online until 5 days have passed; you need to go to a Post Office.

off topic but I do like how the government tries to deny pay rises to the public sector because it would fuel inflation but is happy to raise road tax and council tax and leave tax bands where they are thereby increasing net taxation…

it’s going up again on 1 April!

1 hour ago, ATM said:

Regarding the alternator.  I believe these modern cars have complicated electrical systems.  Not sure why I think this but thats my belief.  So these alternators do not charge constantly like older cars.  This is for emissions as an alternator constantly blasting out peak amps will cause a drag on the engine and increase emissions.  Not sure if that helps explain whats going on with your car.

Pretty sure there's a CAN bus connection to the voltage regulator so the alternator does "intelligent" battery charging rather than just voltage based charging.

It’s fine for basic voltage info but doesn’t really tell you much about the battery health. Typically those testers linked above take into account the battery size and type and then report back the battery’s state of health and state of charge. Much more informative and meaningful.

Consider getting a battery tester such as this one - https://amzn.eu/d/fAlDGjS allows you to see battery health for yourself.

Not familiar with that particular Ctek charger; does it have an AGM mode?

You say you tested the original battery and it tested OK - can you expand on how that was done?

What charger/maintainer are you using?

Was the car stored indoors or outside? If outside can you confirm the drains aren’t blocked and that the carpets are completely dry?

2015 BGTS - one coil pack and the head unit replaced; nothing refused (to date!)

No wheel changing tools at all except for the wheel bolt key - save weight and, more importantly, save money.

My 981 BGTS has PCCBs and didn’t come with them; I purchased 2 as well as a second 987 jack from eBay and carry them in the car. Came in v handy when I got a small stone caught between the brake disc and the backing plate a few years ago.

The OP can make his own mind up about the risk but it would seem the starting point is what the vehicle manufacturer recommends.

I would follow the advice of the owner’s manual. What does it say?

Is the terminal fully seated and tighten down? Try locking and unlocking the car?

Can’t see the pictures but your mention of lacquer peel leads me to think there’s been previous repair work done to a poor standard that is now peeling. I wouldn’t surprise me if the only way to rectify that is to remove all of that poor paintwork and respray it.

It’s the traction/stability control applying the rear brakes.

have a read of 

Interesting video but his conclusion about grills causing overheating is not particularly scientific. There’s no apparent consideration of the age and health of the components in the cooling system.

He also admits that fitting the grills at some stage in the cars life and leaving any debris already there in place is what often happens.

Putting thermocouples on the radiator inlet and outlet and monitoring temperatures in real world use on the same car with and without grills would be a scientific test.

I bought my car 2nd hand from an OPC and when I queried the lack of grills (I got in touch with the PO before closing the deal) the sales manager told me with a straight face that they had to remove them as they might cuss the car to overheat. I struggled not to laugh out loud.

I happily run them on my car - any effect they have on cooling is surely marginal and offset by the lack of leaves, small birds and litter that can get scooped up without the grills in place.

well played - excellent result

personally I would not reference this thread - it will just serve to muddle the argument

stick to the simple argument - a static bolt suffered a sudden failure. this is not wear and tear and thus the repair should be covered.