nick997

9 hours ago, moonshine said:

I've sent you a DM 👍

Thanks, I replied earlier but not seeing it in my messages for some reason. Thanks for the information, much appreciated. 

On 2/8/2022 at 11:05 AM, moonshine said:

Apple CarPlay remotely enabled on my PCM 4.0 and Europe Maps updated from 2016 to 2022😀💪

 

 

Would you mind sharing approximate cost for the update? Thanks!

5 minutes ago, Happy Days said:

Mine takes a mile or so to get fully hot (rural area, so no traffic) but on 3 it burns my ar*e off so I only use 1 normally. Hot enough for me. I also have heated steering wheel and oftern wonder if the gear knob could be heated too. I know, first world problem...

Just picked my daughter up 10 minutes ago, 3 mile rural trip so long enough to heat up. Daughter complains on way home "your heated seats are nowhere near as good as mums" so it's not just me and definitely nowhere close to burning my butt off.

Thanks for replies everyone, looking like it is worth getting them looked at.

I want to be pretty certain there’s a problem before speaking to the dealer, my more recent experience is that the default response is to quote to investigate any issue which then becomes void if a warranty fault is found. Since they have been unable to sell as many new cars dealers seem to be taking it out on existing customers via service charges. 

Thanks Graham.

1 minute ago, Graham W said:

My 718 heated seats react very quickly when turned on and certainly warm the bum to almost toast within a couple of mins.

Thanks Graham, that's at odds to mine. I must try jumping in the passenger seat to see if there is a difference between the two. How old is your 718 out of interest?

Thanks Chris, maybe I'm comparing the best heated seats with something more average. The leather seats feel pretty reasonably quality with thick leather so thought that may well affect how much heat gets through. I've had a 981 and 987.2 in the past both with heated seats but can't really remember how powerful they were in comparison. I'd say the battery is fine, cranks the engine over after a few days use with no issues. 

Interesting that you say that yours are “more than enough”, I can tell mine are on but wouldn’t describe them as you have. 

Anyone find the heated seats on the 718 a bit low powered? In comparison to my wife's Mini I would say the minimum setting on the mini is about the same as the Boxster on full power. Boxster is leather compared to cloth on the mini. The heating seems to switch off or reduce further after a relatively short time too.

Car is new to me but a 2016 model under warranty so wondering if this is normal or needs looking at.

The reset worked for me but I seem to be losing the position again if I don't use the car for a few days, battery is fine and starting the car normally. Anyone know if this is a known issue, car is a 2016 so one of the earliest 718's.

2 hours ago, iborguk said:

Hi, when pressing the button again you holding it for 5 seconds ? 

 

This was it thank you, all perfect now.

Nope, just a second or so was sufficient on the 987. I'll give that a go thanks.

I swapped my 987 out for a lovely spec 718 last weekend and have mostly used it top down this week. When I drop the roof the windows drop as I'm used to with the 987 but they don't raise back to the upper position and when I put the roof back up again the same happens, I get left with a gap of a couple of inches or so. With the 987 I used to reset by putting windows all the way down, releasing button and then pressing again. Then repeat for the upper position. Tried this on the 718 but doesn't appear to be making any difference, is the reset procedure different (Googled but no joy)?

Dare I say that I'm quite enjoying the sound of the car once it is warm and in Sport mode, quite like the burbles when changing down. I'd put a DesignTek valved exhaust on my 987 towards the end of my ownership which sounded great in tunnels valves open but was sometimes a bit too boomy, the different sound from the F4T has a novelty value for me.

I'd post a picture of the car but don't have an Imgur account which looks like the default method here?

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I've done a damper change on my 986, main thing to allow is time.  You are also likely to find some or all 4 drop links are seized into the uprights and the old damper can be a bit of a pig to get out of the upright.  Lots of even taps on a block of wood working around the casting where the damper fits in.  Prep it all with lots of Plus Gas or similar.  Go to the. 'What Have You Done to your 986' thread page 173 to look up what it took to do mine. @bally4563 can add some specific 987 advice but both cars are very similar with lots of shared parts.  The eccentric bolts on the rear can seize into the bushes of the coffin arms and toe links too.  Don't mess around hoping they will move, if they are seized they will need to be cut out, the sooner you accept this the less time you will waste hoping you don't have to cut them.

If only the car was still a weekend toy tucked away in the garage and able to pick and choose when it gets worked on. Sadly I handed my work car back in at the start of the virus and put the Boxster into daily duties. I had the coffin arms replaced a few months back so hopefully some of the bolts will loosen up ok but not all the parts you mentioned. Might be best to give to a pro despite quite wanting to have a go. 

7 hours ago, BBB said:

@nick997, I’m still gathering both parts and courage, so not done yet.

One easier than the other I fear 😁

On 6/24/2021 at 9:23 AM, BBB said:

For future reference, mine are Bilstein B4, from design911, model number 22-147578.

The length of the visible damper rod, at rest, before fitting is 18cm to the tip of the threaded portion.

Did you have any problems fitting your springs or was it easy like others have reported?

I think I need to do this to my car, getting a loud clonk from drivers side when going over speed bumps and suspect the front strut mount is the cause, was noted by RPM Technik last autumn that they would need seeing to in due course. Easy DIY job as YouTube suggests it could be or lots to catch me out?

Based on Mick’s comments it looks like my best bet is to take a feed from windscreen washer heater for switched live. Not looked at it yet, just Google info. If either of you go for a front fitting for the control box. 

Thanks for the tip Mick.

2 hours ago, MickH said:

Does that not create a constant live?  

That was my concern and why I said not what I was anticipating. Car is used daily at the moment and when it was a second car (pre-exhaust change) I always had it on a trickle charger which would be the case again if it gets demoted to second car. As such it's probably not going to be an issue for me but the placement of the control box is quite good as the little bit of cable it uses for an aerial is close to the key fob to switch the exhaust.

10 hours ago, BBB said:

Thanks @Ascender, I saw those, and get the general principles of the plumbing, but not the specifics. Where is the “solenoid on intake manifold” for example? Where do you pick up the switched ignition live? Where do you site the control box etc etc.

I had mine done by local Indy who’s done a few he reckons. Control box is fitted just above the battery and power taken directly from battery. Not what I was anticipating but seems to work. Especially in tunnels 😁

I had to wait for my exhaust to be delivered, knew they had no stock when I ordered as I emailed them beforehand. It turned up when they said it would, about 3 weeks after placing the order and the discount was applied on the date I ordered rather than delivered.

@Digidickknew of someone who had a non-valved TopGear for sale that we both considered buying but the guy talked us both out of it for a daily driver. This was back in Jan/Feb time, might still be for sale, think he wanted £400 at the time.

27 minutes ago, Ascender said:

Thanks for the heads-up. Back to the drawing board I guess!

Revolution Porsche in Leeds do a similar mod to Gert. Be happy to send any high res photos to them if you want to ask them about modifying mine.

53 minutes ago, Ascender said:

So is this the one you have?

Design911 clicky

Looks like its about £150 cheaper from them than from DesignTek direct.

Correct. Add VAT onto Design911 prices.

21 minutes ago, Ascender said:

No joy with Gert, they don't have any stock to sell and are currently looking at a 5-8 week turnaround rather than 2.

The reason for me looking to get it done sooner is that I need to get some work done which needs the engine-out, so they'll be taking the exhaust (which has a hole in it) off anyway. Time to look at the alternatives I guess!

Thanks for the info on your one @nick997, sounds like a belter! Looks like I missed out on a good opportunity with Design911 there!

They have a spring sale on, looks like you would get 7% off a valved DesignTek at the moment.