Duffy3074

12 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Variable Reviews....

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=autodoc+germany&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#

 

Have you ever used them?

I’ve used them a lot and I’ve yet to have an issue.

 If you’re in any way unsure about what you’re ordering then pay the extra for a paid return. I’ve heard the odd story about them substituting alternative branded parts when they’ve been out of stock but I’ve always put in that I’d rather they cancelled the order than do so

 However I appreciate other people who have used them may have had a different experience

I used AUTODOC in the Fatherland for my bits, you pay the VAT up front so there’s no import duties.
I use ATE plated discs on everything nowadays (the quality is superb) and used Textar pads. 
No squeal and the plated discs keep very clean

 Easy job, same as the 986/987 on the whole with the exception of the caliper retaining bolts being different lengths front/rear.

I did all of my flexible and solid brake pipes last time I was in along with stainless bleed nipples

 Proper job 😉

29 minutes ago, lofi said:

I was still getting over £1700 for two ball joints and a geo.

That was the least of it

 They wanted to replace all the discs and pads that I replaced less than 3k ago due to mild surface corrosion to the inner faces at £750 and £604 for the front/rears and the 4 teeny weeny pipes from the calipers to the flex’s for £1500!

It needed a new battery   (£503 which I had to do as it’s under warranty and twice the price of effectively the same battery that Merc just did for my E class daily, but Merc are a well known economy brand after all). 

I did all 4 solid pipes, all 4 flex pipes, the 4 heat shields for the discs, all the bleed nipples to stainless and even genuine Porsche brake fluid for under £400! 

Easy job with the only ‘gotcha’ is that the rear caliper bolts are a new shorter bolt than the older cars

Jings

😆

That’s an expensive way to fault find!

 Somebody who knows their way around a ballpoint with a lever would be a better idea!

5 minutes ago, lofi said:

Jim, my advice is, if you can’t identify the part with play, just start replacing from the least expensive first. You don’t say whether it’s front or rear? Basically drop links rattle, tuning forks sound like snooker balls banging together and coffin arms creek.

Just had both of my rear coffin arms done under warranty at 54k miles.

£1700 including the mandatory geo

Did this along time ago, the full electronics/self levelling is a simple and seperate loom that can be retrofitted.

The mounts are there for the sensor, both on the shell and on the suspension arm, a single run of wiring goes to the ECU mounted under the frunk. 
The washers are straightforward to fit also, either wired in correctly or through a simple relay switched through the lights. 
 

Well worth doing

Get it up on 4 stands, wash the underside carefully by hand, dry it off and get it as clean as possible, pop off any plastic covers that have caught oil to give you access.
Fire it up (out of gear initially) and wait and see if that’s enough to generate the leak, nothing visible? Then pop it in gear so the drivetrain moves. Wait for the oil to appear......

I usually lie underneath when doing this but there’s an element of risk to the unfamiliar so maybe not! 

Apparently he’s an expert on PDK’s

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2020/mar/16/doctors-scared-coronavirus-crisis-nhs-consultant-staff?CMP=Share_iOSApp_Other
 

this makes for interesting reading 

Your acting as if the engine and gearbox work separately from each other.

They don’t 

If there’s a problem with the gearbox, the engine will react to that. 
You’re right about needing to be able to read codes. 
Farting against thunder otherwise 

These things hate sitting

Get the gearbox fixed first, a couple of decent runs under the belt and see what does and doesn’t work after that 

Just guessing and over thinking things isn’t necessarily the best 

If you’ve any doubts just spread your legs wide and stand with the weight on the outer edge of the floor at the joint with the inner wings.

Its a solid steel floor

It was fine 

Good stuff

I stood in the frunk to do mine 

it’s quite heavy

That’s where you are wrong and it’s part of the reason I started the thread
I respect your willingness to forge on alone but if you ask for help I’ve no doubt somebody will step up if they are nearby 

I take it you are aware of this? 

Depends on what level you want to go to. 

A generic code reader will do basic functions for about £20 off of eBay, Durametric is where it’s at for Porsches however. There are members on here who will help you with that if you’re nearby.

Is that for somebody else to put in properly?

Your wasting your time otherwise methinks

I’ve done a small amount of work on 1 or 2 Boxsters and genuinely respect your have a go attitude, however I’d strongly recommend getting it at least level, the codes read and gearbox filled properly before you go any further 

Farting against thunder at the moment I’m afraid 

Buy a cheap code reader or find somebody nearby with some proper kit.

You are flailing in the dark otherwise 

What fault codes is the gearbox throwing out?

Get it level and do it once,  as properly as you can.

If you’ve got the car at any sort of angle then you are overfilling the box with the drip outmethod 

Have you got the car level??

I’d drain it properly, fix the seal and then refill it with the whole car on stands. There’s a level it needs to go to whilst warm, this is to get it spot on and needs the correct kit to read the internal temperature of the gear box and is a PITA to get spot on, I paid Porsche to do it for me on my old 987.

Ball Park is good enough to drive it to the garage for a final level check but you are wasting time/money/oil throwing it in whilst it’s still leaking. 

I’ve had a good rake and the problem is that all of the standard sizes have holes in them to allow the retaining bolts that usually hold these onto inner CV joints

Most manufacturers mount the rubber straight into the outer surface of the joint on an outer CV, Porsche use the extra cover and that’s unusual.

Nothing obvious yet but it can’t just be Porsche that do it this way 

I’ll keep looking

Thanks, I’ll see if there’s anything obvious elsewhere