moneypit

8 hours ago, ricof said:

That seems far too cheap.

Sorry! 2 years ago or so. That's what I paid. Very happy with the work done. They're my regular Indy. Prices may have gone up since then.

£500 fitted at D&G Porsche Indy in Newcastle.

On 12/8/2023 at 8:31 AM, Patt said:

I think that should say "sadly nut detailing/polishing" 😉

I'm with Map, I've always added/removed or modified what every I wish on my cars.  Not know for being a lemming with my taste.

Once had a fellow MLR (Lancer Register) want to punch me for a mod I'd done on my car, he said I didn't deserve the car !

I'm still on the MLR, although it's largely dead in the water as a forum now. I remember it getting somewhat boisterous on occasion. I tested a couple of intercoolers that I'd bought with my own money against the standard item and measured the intake temps at the throttle body and intake manifold. It developed into a 20 page freestyle bloodbath with everyone and his dog kicking off about the way I'd gone about it, even though a guy with a background in thermodynamics was arguing that I had actually gone about it the right way. 😆

On 11/12/2023 at 4:34 PM, Blakey said:

I thought the 987 sort of 'adjusted' it's self anyway,  compensating for different fuels etc. So if you change a throttle body for instance,  does it not just adjust for the bigger butterfly?

They'll advance the ignition to take advantage of better fuel, but mods like that are better off being done with other complimentary mods, followed by a remap. The standard ecu can only do so much without help.

I'm never sure what a remap is supposed to achieve on a standard N/A car. As said, 20 brake on something that already produces 280 ( 3.2 in my case ) just isn't noticeable on the road at that level. If you remap a standard turbocharged car, in my experience you will get torque gains worth having, but supporting mods on an N/A or turbo car make more sense in justifying a remap.

To be fair though, I've driven a few 3.2s and the one I currently have feels extremely quick compared to the others. I haven't ever noticed any flat spots either, so perhaps Toeside ( Angus ), who I bought it from on here can shed some light on things going on with it that I may not be aware of! 🤔

Yeah, I saw that and heard the name mentioned before by others as good quality.

I'm not sure whether I want to rock the boat with this. Nothing is bad enough to be an MOT failure, and the car drives absolutely as it always has, nothing feels wrong at all. I'm going to have the car up in the air and see for myself exactly what it needs. I'm happy spending money when it'll improve things, but I've got a sense with this that the list I've got back is a little heavy handed.

What sort of a job is it to replace the headlight levelling rods?

That's all great info, thanks very much.

Hi, just had a minor service, and a short list of not urgent suggestions have come up on the visual inspection.

Among them are one front shocker stanchion starting to corrode at the top and a spacer is missing ( the other has been replaced before i bought the car ), both front top mounts are recommended for replacement and both front tie rods have a tiny amount of play. I can't feel a thing wrong in the way it drives, there's not a squeak, knock or rattle, but I'll do things as they arise rather than let things mount up.

Where would people recommend I get this stuff from? Also the front and rear headlight level rods are seized, again, any good suppliers?

Thanks all.

As title, only ever had one of mine working, and it sounds like something from a Noddy and Big ears cartoon. I gather they're conveniently located behind the front bumper, which will necessitate removal to gain access. I've got a pair of none standard twin horns I was going to fit to something else, and don't mind using them, although I can see I'll likely have to lose the original connecters if I can't make up a way of adapting them. 

Any advice or pitfalls?

I'm sold on Goodyears, I love the way mine drives on them.

9 hours ago, P27GLN said:

I think user experience is key so will keep Goodyears in mind, Thanks!

I'll probably be in the minority for advocating Goodyears over Michelins, but after many good experiences with them on various cars I've owned ( Impreza, and my current Lexus and Evo 8 ) I thought they were worth a go on the Boxster. I like them because they don't go "off" like Michelins do and my cars stand for long periods on occasion, so it makes a lot of difference to how often I need to replace them. They're superb in the wet, they overcome flat spots after being parked, and I really lean on them in the dry in a way I was never comfortable doing in the past on other brands with the Boxster.

Just one mans opinion though, there'll be others who disagree.

I fitted Goodyears to my 19s and am delighted with them. Especially for £630 all in. They happen to be N rated, but frankly, I couldn't give a t*ss about that on a 2005 car, and doubt many people with any common sense would. When it needs them again, it'll be the same brand, N rated or not, it's a different car after the Michelins I replaced.

7 hours ago, Boxstclever said:

The lock modules all "talk" to each other, so if one is not working correctly, it throws the whole system.  Really need to get the codes read to ascertain which one it is.

 

Thank you, I'll pass that on.

12 hours ago, TROOPER88 said:

Probably this.

Sounds like your friend has central locking issues hence the frunk won't open.

What area are you?

Hi, I'm in deepest darkest central Newcastle!  🙂Thanks for the input. 👍

Just to be clear than, is the issue related maybe to the switch or latch specific to the frunk not allowing the car to lock?

The only problem I've experienced with a short term battery disconnect was that the reconnection triggered a previously dead / dormant tracker back into life and caused a battery drain. I was lucky enough to have the fault diagnosed by someone who used to fit trackers for the local Porsche dealer back around the time when mine was new, and remembered where they were fitted. Other than that you'll get some dash lights on until you go above 8mph, then it'll be ok.

Sorry, dumb question probs, but if it's a door latch, why won't the frunk open?

Hi, as title. I normally frequent the 987 part of the forum. Asking for a friend who isn't on here. Anyone shed any light on this? This hasn't been the happiest of experiences for him as an ownership prospect, but he loves the thing. I'm just trying to find a cheap fix as it's bitten him fairly badly in the time he's owned it. Any input appreciated.

10 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Relax, it's not like we have any members called @moneypit ...

To be fair, I chose that name based on having the same concerns initially as the op. 😳 None of which so far have materialised so far, touch wood.

It's my 3rd, although I only had the other 2 very briefly. I'm six years in with this one, it's been pretty kind to me, and encouraged me to make more effort with it, both as a keeper and as something I can finally trust not to hand me my ar*e on a country road. It's taken a while as I don't get to drive it much, but recently I've had some absolutely fantastic drives in it.

I'd have a 987.2 without any concern if I felt the need to do so, or had any real concerns about the 3.2 being unreliable, but that's very unlikely to happen now given the way I feel about this one.

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Not trying hard enough??  Well, the 987 does have TC as standard...

I'm not going to send myself to jail with a full confession on a public forum!😂

My go to tyre is Goodyear, they've transformed my Boxster. Just come back from a very spirited and very wet trip to the borders, not a twitch.

I've recently had a SPH DAB250 fitted. I'm not mad about having touch screen controls for volume as you obviously have to look down to find them. I've got controls on the steering wheel which until yesterday I thought weren't anything like linear enough for the volume, but having discovered a sub menu that alters the sound level for each speaker, that's now much better. The sound quality through the standard amp and Bose speakers isn't as good as the factory carplay setup in my 2018 Ford Connect however........

Fitted Twenty20s to my 2018 Transit Connect work van to update the horribly yellow originals about 8 months ago and so far so good. I replaced 8 bulbs including the foglight bulbs at a fairly eye watering £286, but they are excellent and the beam pattern is spot on. Not sure why they aren't technically road legal though?

I bought my '05 S from another forum member 5 years ago for what I felt was a very sensible price given the mileage and spec. Since then the main costs have been maintenance rather than repair, admittedly though, the car does few miles ( just coming up to 80k, bought at 73k ). 

Having initially shat myself every time I drove it after convincing myself that the IMS was planning to self destruct every time I fired the thing up ( negative effect of too much internet browsing! ), I've completely relaxed about that to the point where I never think about it now.

The only thing that I've had to replace at the beginning of this year that I didn't see coming has been the backbox, and I was fortunate enough to have already obtained one  a few years ago from a seller on here who gave it away for free as long as I was happy to collect. Given that I was sure the blow was from the manifold, with all the nonsense to fix that that entails, I felt I'd dodged a bullet there. Prior to that, it's been serviced 3 times, and needed nothing else.

I made the conscious decision this year to either drive it or sell it. Drive it won, and in light of that it's recently had a wheel refurb, 4 new Goodyears, Brembo pads and discs all round, a major service, front coolant pipes and a Pioneer carplay head unit. I did the brakes, so saved the labour, but the total was still in excess of £2800. I still need to do the brake fluid, but as it's already been done once in my ownership, I'll not panic about that.

It rewarded my loyalty by providing me with one of the best drives I've had in it last weekend, on the return leg of a journey back down from Edinburgh to Newcastle across country,  and I don't begrudge a penny of the outlay. I think to get the best from them, there has to be a degree of realistic expectation and anticipation as to what will likely require attention and when.

So far I haven't had any of the expected suspension, roof, water pump or clutch bills to pay, so maybe, if I'm unlucky, I'll suddenly have several things to deal with at once, but a little product knowledge and research, combined with an eyes open to possible expenditure approach will hopefully forestall any real financial horror shows.

5 hours ago, Boxstercol said:

Would love to know where you got that done at that price!

Most quotes are double that price & usual price for wheel alignment in circa £100 on its own.

I got it done at my trusted local Indy D&G Porsche in Newcastle. It had various other things including a major service, the total bill coming in at £917. The wheel alignment would indeed have been £100 alone., so the pipes were £390. I should make it clear there's vat to go on those prices for the avoidance of doubt.