markjh

15 hours ago, 986Jack said:

I'm not sure of it's a 3 or 5 chain but it's an S from 2001.

You've probably cracked on with this now, but yours should be a 5 chain engine, they changed to 3 in 2003.

As I understand it the chains on the 5-chain design are more tightly wrapped to the sprocket than on the 3-chain version. This means that the 5-chain is less likely to jump a tooth when the tensioners are released to do the IMS than on the 3-chain. Got this info from one of Dempsey's books, I think, and I've seen it repeated in other places.

I've seen YouTube videos of people doing the IMS without locking the cams at all, which seams crazy to me when it only takes a few minutes and some inexpensive tools to do it. When I've had to release the tensioners on mine (5-chain) I've always locked crank & cams, released tensioners, done the work, refitted tensioners, unlocked, rotated, checked again. It takes longer, but removes the extreme nervousness when turning the ignition key..

Hmmm.. IMO, it shouldn't do (but may also depend on if it is a 3 or 5 chain cam chain engine), but if it was me I'd be returning the crank to TDC and locking it along with the cams, hopefully nothing has moved.  Then put the tensioners back in, removing the cam and crank locks, rotating the engine and putting the cam and crank locks back in again to check it, then repeat..

However, I'm assuming you've returned the cam/crank locks along with the IMS removal kit?

I've never swapped one but I believe you'll need the code for the new one you are fitting.

I have a CDR 22  and every time I disconnect the battery I have to enter the code that came with it, the code was in the original document pack, on a Silver Radio Code Card (which is about the same size as a credit card). I expect the CDR 23 will be the same.

If you don't have the card, try 9107.😉

3 hours ago, RedBarediver said:

Well, don't I look silly now? The dashboard from eBay arrived today. Very well packaged and looks quite nice. Only one or two little marks on it that one probably won't notice once it's in the car.

But....it is for a newer 986 and has a glove compartment. Correction - it has the space where a glove compartment should be.

Mine is a very old 986 (one of the first) so it doesn't have a glove compartment in the dashboard. Will this make a difference? I presume the dash will still fit (even if I have to put a few extra holes in somewhere) and I can just source the glovebox from a breaker's yard later on to complete the installation.

Isn't the later model glove box where the earlier model airbag is? It's been a while since I was in a later model 986, so I can't remember what they did with the passenger airbag to accommodate the glove box. 

This is what I found when I stripped mine, you can see the 2 broken lugs (top left above the spring, and bottom under the stalk). The other bit with the 2 springs on is what the 'repair kit' replaces, mine was OK, but if I'd known about it at the time I would have replaced it anyway.

17 hours ago, ATM said:

Right not cancelling. Been like that since I got the car. No idea how long it's been busted.

OK, that's the fault Jeff is fixing in the video, and the fault I had except mine was both sides.

When you strip it you should find the broken plastic lug inside, and you'll be able to see where it should go back because the other side is still in place. I'd strengthen the side that is still in place while you are in there with JB Weld, or whatever your preferred adhesive is... The biggest problem I had was working out how the broken lugs should be glued back in (because they were both broken off), you've got a pattern to copy and an obvious side it goes in. 

I've just had a look at the kit Dances posted (thanks!) and that looks really good, but the part that was broken in mine and in Jeff's video was different part to the one that they are replacing, so you are potentially still going to have to do some glueing.

If you have the skills to remove and replace the stalk, rebuilding it isn't any more complex.

50 minutes ago, ATM said:

I ordered a new stalk for my 996 in a moment of madness at the OPC while getting other bits. I've been waiting now for 6 weeks and it's still not arrived. So maybe I'll try stripping down the old one anyway.

What symptoms do you have, is it not cancelling, if so is it both sides or just one?

I think it's worth a shot, the only 'specialist' bit of kit you need is a pop riveter for re-assembly, although I think you could also use long, thin nut and bolts. 

If it's just play then it's not quite the same problem that Jeff was fixing in the video, that was for the indicators not cancelling, which is the issue I had, caused by two plastic lugs breaking off. Lots of play could be a precursor to complete failure, but even if it's something else the video will help you with stripping and rebuilding.

A couple of things from my experience doing this:

1. Clean, clear work area and take plenty of time, nothing difficult but it is quite fiddly and there is lots of opportunity to drop something that is small and important...

2. Jeff uses epoxy adhesive, after failing with super glue, to refit the broken lugs. I ended up using 'J-B Weld PlasticBonder' which gave a much better result than my first try with epoxy. 

3. If you do replace you'll find they are expensive new and used 986/996 units are getting harder to come by so are correspondingly pricey, I was told that the 944 indicator stalks are the same - but you'll need to check this yourself as ended up being happy with the repair so didn't investigate further.

My thoughts - FWIW:

The car really needs diagnosing properly, (unfortunately) the first step is to get any codes read, which will hopefully point you in the right direction. Other alternative is to start playing a game of random part replacement lottery, which is frustrating and expensive.

Would suggest you call SCS with a view to taking it back to them, see what they suggest if they've recently had it in.

PS - on first read I thought you said you had a blue flashing engine light, which would have been a new one..😀

10 hours ago, edc said:

You wrote earlier if it ain't broke don't fix it no mention of inspection. Nevertheless, whether you inspect and you think it's good or whether you inspect and you think it's bad, it can still break and if it does you probably won't be fixing it if the engine is grenaded. 

Here's my original post again, "inspect" is at end of the first line:

14 hours ago, markjh said:

I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school. I would leave it until you need to change the clutch, then inspect the IMS before deciding what, if anything to do at that point.

Had a set back today with mine, turns out the cam chain lock tool delivered today is for a 3-chain engine, rather than 5-chain, took me over an hour to work out why it wouldn't fit.🤔 

3 hours ago, edc said:

The problem with this approach for the IMS is more like if it breaks you ain't fixing it. 

But if you've inspected it and it's OK why would you change it?

10 hours ago, phazed said:

Nice work.

Have mine in the air at the moment with exhaust stripped off, gearbox brackets and other ancillaries removed. Might be an idea to drop the gearbox and renew IMS. I really have no idea whether it is best to leave well alone if there aren’t any problems but as 111K maybe I should do this just as a precaution. Any advice would be good.
Apologies for thread, hijack.

 

I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school. I would leave it until you need to change the clutch, then inspect the IMS before deciding what, if anything to do at that point.

Had a set back today with mine, turns out the cam chain lock tool delivered today is for a 3-chain engine, rather than 5-chain, took me over an hour to work out why it wouldn't fit.🤔 

Dropped the gearbox and removed the clutch and flywheel to reveal this. RMS looks fine, need to get the IMS cover off and inspect next.

In fairness to me I did say that I "may" replace the IMS while doing the clutch, only ever intended on doing it once I'd inspected it. 😀

I've just read the posts in the Tech section (sorry if I've posted this in the wrong place) and like for like replacement seams like a sensible option, which I hadn't considered, if it needs replacing at all - so thanks for that!

Part of the attraction of the Spyder kit was the option to rent the replacement tool, rather than having to buy it.

I'll be replacing the clutch in my 2001 986S in the coming weeks.

I may take the opportunity to replace the IMS bearing while I'm in there and have been exploring options.

Came across this bearing and insertion tool rental from Spyder Performance earlier. Gave them a call late this afternoon and they told me it's their own solution, not a something they are distributing for a third party. 

It's considerably cheaper than anything else I've found, and renting the tooling rather than buying it is another plus.

Has anyone fitted one of these or have any other knowledge or experience of this IMS kit?

Many thanks

Mark

Thank you everybody for all the response and input.

I have now read the  @map full thread - too, what a great resource!! (this didn't show up when I searched before posting).

Although I'd love to try the LWFW I'll be sticking with the standard dual mass flywheel, there is no way the rest of the family who drive it would put up with the compromises (sounding like a bag of spanners at idle)..

Thanks again for all the help.

Regards

Mark

I'm wanting to achieve a crisper response and for the engine to rev more freely, but not at the expense of the car being very difficult to drive at low speeds.

I've only driven a  BMW that had the DMF replaced with a solid flywheel, and in traffic it was terrible, but it was the owners track day car so it suited him.

If possible I was looking to get someone's opinion who has paid for one of these to be fitted and see what their real world experience is, rather than be influenced entirely by a YT video where you are never sure what commercial deal has gone on.

Here's  996 You Tube Video the bit about the clutch starts at around 22 minutes. 

My 986 feels like it is (over)due a clutch, probably flywheel and associated bits and pieces too- approaching 130k miles and never been changed as far as I can tell. Clutch has got heavier recently, although it's not slipping. External signs of what I believe is a slight RMS leak, and will be checking IMS too. 

My question is has anyone fitted one of the Single mass Lightweight Aluminium flywheels, I'm looking at the Design 911 one, if so what are your thoughts? I never 'track' the car, road use only, and other family members use the car so it needs to be drivable on a run to the shops. 

I saw a YT video where someone had put one in their 996 and he was enthusiastically talking about how the car revved more freely, which would be great, but not so great if it makes the car virtually undriveable at low speeds.

Many thanks.

22 hours ago, jonogt6 said:

I'm assuming you have the standard seats as opposed to the wing back sports seats that were fitted as a fairly common option. Wouldn't it be easier to fit a set of those?

Yes I have standard seats, I did think about the wing back seats, and I’m sure you are right about that being an easier option. But that isn’t the aesthetic that I’m looking for. 
 

I appreciate your thoughts though!

Mark

3 hours ago, map said:

AFAIK the seats in the OP’s post are pretty hard to come by - at least as originals.

I’ve been looking around and they do come up, most of them need a refurb, which is fine. I’m not sure about how high they seat base will be, if the head rest will fit under the roll bar and what leg room will be ultimately. I’m currently comparing dimensions, but I was just looking to see if anyone has been down this route before.

I was going to go with the wingback style of the Recaro’s Sportster CS, but the more I look at them, the less I like them!

cheers

Mark

I'm looking to improve on the standard comfort seats in my 986.

Decent 987 sports seats (the popular upgrade) are rare and expensive, have looked at the Recaro Sportster CS and feel like I want something a bit more retro.

Has anyone fitted, or attempted to fit, Recaro Classic seats in a Boxster?

Pics from 70's 80's 911s to try an and show what I'm aiming for.

Thanks

Mark

I have the Ryobi, which has worked well for me - I paid under £100 for it a while ago and wasn't expecting too much, but it's been great.

I already had a bunch of their other tools and batteries so made sense to me to stick with the same.

Which ever make you get don't skimp on the battery, you need 5ah.

I use this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08DJ58SNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm assuming you have the factory fixed Becker CDR22 head unit and the 6 disk CD changer that was fitted from new. 

You need to turn 'Aux' on (on the head unit) and you'll loose the use of the CD changer, a daisy chain cable gets mentioned sometimes, so you can keep the CD changer - but I've not found one yet.

Mine works pretty well, and for the price of it you can't go wrong!

Regards

Mark

1 minute ago, 999 WRC said:

Fabulous to see it come home. There are a number of cars I wish I had never sold but looking at DVLA info most have now long been scrapped!!  Glad this story has a happy ending.  How does it look after 17 years away from you?  All as it was when you last saw it?

Looks good, better than I anticipated, and pretty much as I last saw it. It's not been modified or 'upgraded' and is in the same spec as it left the showroom.

Agreed a deal with @Porsche driver that suited both of us so 17 years after it left the Boxster is back, along side it's older, air cooled sibling.