Craigmann36

Sent the RCM away to get recoded, on the off chance. It wasn’t that. 
 

Tested power to the module and the voltage is up and down, so there’s something strange going on. I am just not electrically equipped enough to know what could cause this. 

Thanks for the help.

Bavaria are probably a decent shout. I’ll pop in at lunchtime today and see if it’s something they’d be happy to look at.

The sooner I get the car back on the road now the better!

My current thinking is along the lines that the Rear Control Unit cannot be faulty, given it worked fine for 3 days after taking out all the fuses.

Further, something is draining power from the vehicle causing the battery to go flat. Whatever this is, could be causing no power to the rear control unit. 
 

I am though by no means electrically minded. Infact I’m electrically inept. I’ll try and call round some auto electricians tomorrow.

8 hours ago, iborguk said:

location ? 

Aberdeen. My best bet is likely an auto electrician 

New unit in, PCM coded out, no difference.

I think next step will be get a new/used Rear Control Unit recoded to my vehicle, and if it isn’t that I’m then stumped and it’s time to take it to someone who does this for a living.

the issue being, there’s no one near me who does such a thing…

On 4/3/2024 at 7:49 AM, Paul P said:

What are you reading the codes with ? And does the reference to PCM make any sense - do you have a replacement head unit. ?

 

I have been reading with a foxwell I have been given by my local garage. I do have an aftermarket unit in which is rubbish.
Got a (much better) replacement getting fitted by a professional on Thursday to see if this helps. 
 

In the meantime I had taken every fuse out, laid in order and then replaced each of them in their respective place. Car was fine from Thursday-today when all issues returned…

On 3/20/2024 at 1:46 PM, Paul P said:

What modules are reporting those codes ?

Only reference I see (so far) to those numbers is the PCM ( headunit) - and they translate to 8004 - GSM antenna (phone) broken or shorted out, 8005 / 8006 - Satellite receiver error ( I assume related to US cars with satellite radio)... - phone unit is under the drivers seat ( UK car) - so possibly something going on there?

Your original problem was spoiler, boot and roof stuff - what happened/got fixed/went away between then and now - are those things still an issue?

Thanks Paul,

All the other issues remain present unfortunately! 
 

Thanks!

Thanks for all the help folks,

These are the remaining codes when I clear the ones of no concern;

8004

8005

8006

These relate to fuses A3 and A7 I am told.

Fuses are both fine and I am now stumped… I am useless electrically, it is fair to say. 
 

Any further advice greatly appreciated!

Thanks! My thoughts also.

But how do I go about doing so?

Hi folks,

Before people jump to the understandable conclusion, the rear control unit 100% did not get wet!

Long story short;

- Trickle charger faulty 

- Battery died 

- Car started after battery was charged

- All/most systems operating via the rear control unit aren’t working (spoiler stuck “up”, boot doesn’t recognise it’s closed, roof doesn’t recognise it is closed)

The rear control unit 100% did not get wet. The vehicle is dry stored, and prior to this, it worked completely fine, and the drain plugs are checked regularly.

I believe the rear control module needs reset. I sadly live in Aberdeen, Scotland with no specialists near me. Does anyone know if this can be done remotely?

Any suggestions for a fix welcome. Also suggestions of any garages near me who can fix, is also appreciated.

Many Thanks

On 1/29/2022 at 12:27 PM, Del_tl1000r said:

Craigmann36.......where did you buy your paint and was it a good match. 

I can’t remember the sellers name, but just off of eBay with the colour code. Halfords also do a good colour match I hear…

3 hours ago, bally4563 said:

On standard the 10 mm equates to a 20 mm drop which on standard I personally believe is enough, 30 mm will slam it

Thanks! Makes sense as they do say for M030 Package 

On 1/21/2022 at 2:35 PM, Jim b said:

I have them but not yet fitted as I need the backing frames. Anyone have a pair lying around they are willing to sell before I have to visit OPC. 🙏

I was the same for a few months, was lucky enough to find vents the same colour but couldn’t find backing frames at all; months later got lucky and found one of each side from different secondhand suppliers.

If I were to do it again, I’d go OPC route as they’d have probably been the same price or cheaper. 

That’s @T911UK, I’ve been looking for these also. 
Still in an internal debate with myself whether to go for the 10mm or 30mm…

6 hours ago, iborguk said:

If you also need a new insert (the mat) for the storage compartment be aware that’s a separate part (thanks Porsche) and is about £10.

Haha trust Porsche! 

1 hour ago, iborguk said:

The storage compartment is Volcano Grey , part 997 553 143 01 D07 and about £35 from an OPC, before any discount. 

I think D07 is the colour code reference but recommend you check with an OPC parts department.

Volcano Grey is also referenced in the description of the Aircon unit colour.

 

Can’t thank you enough!

In that case, think what I’ll do is by a new storage compartment and then test volcano grey on the new one!

Hi guys

Does anyone know the colour the AC unit/Radio/Nav unit is in the 987/997?

Closest I’ve seen to even a suggestion is Volcano Grey…

Making it my aim to get as much done to my Boxster as possible over winter, the climate unit has some stains and the cubby surround below, has a few chips. Just can’t seem to find a definitive answer for the colour.

Appreciate any input!
 

Those Eibach’s really don’t make it look too low compared to what I thought; I’ll probably just go with a set of them.

Also, I really appreciate the offer, but you’re just a few months too late, I’ve also fitted them now as well! Look much better IMO.

Hi guys

looking to lower my car but not an obscene amount; 20mm is what I’m after ideally.

However it is difficult to find springs/they don’t seem to exist made specifically for the 987.1

my question is, will the 987.2 Spyder springs fit the OE dampers (Bilstein B4’s) on my 987.1 Boxster?

thanks in advance 

4 hours ago, Christopher2110 said:

That last photo seems out of focus, do you have any others where we can see the outcome?

Yeah, just realised when posting. I’ll have to go and take another, focussed this time. Although I say it’s temporary, it’s only ever getting done again if the arch bubbles - which it shouldn’t. I recently cleaned the lip on the inside of my arches. Go to your rear arch, and at the inner top you will feel a fairly significant lip, which on my car was holding a lot of dirt, and I imagine, if left, would result in corrosion.

The arches on my 987 had begun to succumb to the road rash around the bottom of the arch/sill area where many cars seem to - I often see it in cars offered for sale, in far worse a state than mines was. Seeing as mines was not so horrendous, and my car is not metallic, I thought I’d give a home repair a go. Being a flat colour with no flake, a paint match was far easier to achieve from an aerosol can.
Here is how I went about it:

Products used

Bilthamber Deox Gel

Wire brush 

All purpose cleaner/degreaser

Zinc primer

Guards Red (or applicable) aerosol

Any good lacquer

Bin bags

Masking tape

Method

Firstly, I washed the entire car, however you can just wash the area if you like. I did it to reduce swirls and marring when masking.

Once I had dried the car, I lightly sanded the area and wire brushed the exposed metal. You can go far more harsh on the areas than I did, and probably should - however it did not affect my end result. 

Once wire brushed, smear deox gel onto any areas of exposed metal, and leave to sit for at the very least the minimum time stated on the container. Once it has been left to work in, wire brush the areas with deox gel applied, and remove the gel.

Once the deox gel has been washed off, thoroughly degrease the area, and let dry. Then mask the vehicle up extremely well. I had my wheel full lock to the left to allow access, then masked the entire wheel up. Further I masked up almost the entire arch, half the door and the sill. I used a kitchen roll on the edges of where I intended to spray. This ensured an even blend of paint, and was extremely effective. Also, I advise laying something on the floor underneath where you are painting - unless you like the idea of a PTS garage floor.

Next I laid down 3 layers of Zinc Primer, followed by 4/5 coats of Guards Red, and then around 6 coats of lacquer, to protect from stones in the future. I’m well aware this is not the most effective method, nor am I by any means a professional vehicle repair tech - however as a cheap, temporary home repair, I am delighted with the results. 

Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures during the process, only before and afters.