SimonT001

Just to confirm, all now perfect. The MAF is correct, running issue fixed and the numbering difference is as explained above - although Porsche themselves refused to discuss part numbers with me...

9 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Use it.  The last 2 digits are issue number, it has been up issued by Porsche, but Bosch do not regard the change as significant enough for them to re-number it.  The original version of the part ends 00 in the Porsche parts cat.

The factor said the same thing so its in. Haven't been for a drive yet but start up is good. Cheers!

23 hours ago, ½cwt said:

You can run it disconnected.  Look for a Bosch branded one (Bosch number 0 280 218 055) rather than pay the extra £250 or so for a Porsche one (Porsche 986 606 125 01).  You'll find the Bosch part has the Porsche part number moulded on it anyway.   Alternatively get a tested used one from one of the breakers at 25-30% of the cost of even a Bosch one.  My second hand one is still going strong 3 years and over 12k miles since it was fitted.

Dilemma! I have the new MAF and it has the same Bosch part number as above and as the old one but the Porsche number on the old one ends in 01 whereas the new one ends in 02. Can I use it/whats the difference? Any ideas much appreciated!!

23 hours ago, ½cwt said:

You can run it disconnected.  Look for a Bosch branded one (Bosch number 0 280 218 055) rather than pay the extra £250 or so for a Porsche one (Porsche 986 606 125 01).  You'll find the Bosch part has the Porsche part number moulded on it anyway.   Alternatively get a tested used one from one of the breakers at 25-30% of the cost of even a Bosch one.  My second hand one is still going strong 3 years and over 12k miles since it was fitted.

Dilemma! I have the new MAF and it has the same Bosch part number as above and as the old one but the Porsche number on the old one ends in 01 whereas the new one ends in 02. Can I use it/whats the difference? Any ideas much appreciated!!

16 hours ago, ½cwt said:

You can run it disconnected.  Look for a Bosch branded one (Bosch number 0 280 218 055) rather than pay the extra £250 or so for a Porsche one (Porsche 986 606 125 01).  You'll find the Bosch part has the Porsche part number moulded on it anyway.   Alternatively get a tested used one from one of the breakers at 25-30% of the cost of even a Bosch one.  My second hand one is still going strong 3 years and over 12k miles since it was fitted.

Thanks as ever. Getting one from my local factor for £170. Seems so much more reasonable when I found out Porsche want £600..!!!

So, I've run the car with MAF disconnected and start up is smooth and no hesitation past 5k revs. Reconnect and rev flare/almost stall and hesitation are back. Looks like I'll be buying a new MAF, is it a problem to run it disconnected in the meantime?

23 hours ago, GmanB said:

Could also be perishing coils, we're heading into damp season, water ingress will have an impact. 

My friends 996 had a similar problem around 5-5.5k, more of a hesitation than a misfire though, new coils solved it. 

It definitely could but coils and plugs replaced this summer (and they were well shot), so hoping it's not electrical. Thanks!

Yes, that was my guide. Strangely though my engine bay is much dirtier than that one and all the connectors were quite stuck .... I assume the MAF can simply be unplugged without removal but I can't see how the clip releases and it is awkward to reach.

On 10/16/2022 at 1:06 PM, ½cwt said:

I'm with @edc, but a quick test to eliminate it is to disconnect the MAF and the car should run on a default map.  Beware when cleaning the throttle body that you reconnect all the vac hoses and that some of them can perish so be ready to replace with some new 5mm vac hose.

This sounds pathetic but I can't get the connection off the MAF to unplug it and at the moment I haven't got the correct bit to unscrew it. What's the technique?

I cleaned out the throttle body which has certainly changed things for the good but there is still a pronounced misfire/flatspot at just past 5000rpm - could be MAF? I see what you mean about the vac hoses. Had a real struggle to refit it and it barely ran. Eek! Then realised it was misaligned with the plenums. Got it straight and it was cured. Looked like the vacuum connection below one of them would have been obstructed and caused the poor running.

My car has always started with a quick flare of revs and then gone straight to idle which I assume is normal. However, in the last couple of weeks at every start, warm or cold, immediately after the flare, the revs drop right down almost to stalling before immediately coming back up to idle. Any ideas what would cause that?

Thanks!

On 7/25/2022 at 7:40 AM, jonogt6 said:

Mine used to suffer from this but I've noticed recently that it no longer does it. Had a bit of athink why this would be the case and I realised that the rattle stopping has coincided with changing the MAF sensor a few months ago. Previously the car used to rev to about 1500 rpm when starting from cold but with the new MAF there is no revs above 1000 rpm and is a much gentler start. Who'd have thought ehh!

I am interested in this post because mine does the rev flare on start up then settles straight down to idle and I assumed that to be absolutely as intended. However, in the last couple of weeks at every start, warm or cold, after the flare the revs have dropped right down to almost stalling before immediately recovering up to idie speed. This just started happening one day so something has changed and I will post a new thread asking for ideas but could it be MAF related as suggested above?

I have the "death rattle" on first cold start of the day only and agree that it is normal. I've noticed that if you briefly spin the engine a few times without it firing then it builds a bit of oil pressure and the rattle is much less.

5 hours ago, SimonT001 said:

Hi 1/2cwt - I am currently trawling through your detailed and helpful posts for any hints as to how I can get the ARB bolt out of my rear damper. I have cut off the  ARB link and the bolt actually turns - albeit stiffly - but shows no sign of coming out of the casting, even when assisted by a lump hammer. Unfortunately I don't have an impact gun - perhaps that will have to be addressed ...

Success! Many applications of penetrating oil interspersed with further turning of bolt got it increasingly freer until it drifted our. Phew!

On 10/19/2020 at 9:04 AM, ½cwt said:

I hesitate to say you may not have tackled this task on a seized ARB bolt....  if you have apologies.

A 17mm open ended is not up to the task of the torque required if these are seized in and will burr off the hex (if they are not seized, no problem and you are quite correct).  If you do burr it off the task would become a whole lot harder .  The starting point is cutting off the ARB joint to allow access for a 6 sided (not 12 point) socket on a breaker bar to avoid burring off this hex.  Lifting the breaker bar in a standing position what the assembly was still on the car was JUST enough to start rotation of this after lots of time putting shock into the 'bolt' with an impact wrench and a lump hammer on the other end.  Even when I got it off the car and positioned it against a concrete step, a 14lb sledge hammer did not budge the pin.  My impact wrench would not even turn it a little until after the heat treatment and even then only after more work with the breaker bar.  The only time a 17mm on this hex works it when refitting the new on to stop it rotating until there is enough load on it to use a ratchet or driver to fasten the nut.

Hi 1/2cwt - I am currently trawling through your detailed and helpful posts for any hints as to how I can get the ARB bolt out of my rear damper. I have cut off the  ARB link and the bolt actually turns - albeit stiffly - but shows no sign of coming out of the casting, even when assisted by a lump hammer. Unfortunately I don't have an impact gun - perhaps that will have to be addressed ...

17 hours ago, ½cwt said:

 

Yes, only 15% on fitted parts. 

God knows how much labour would be at an OPC to fit an 986 exhaust and they'd insist on doing all the corroded studs to the cat, mounting bracket bolts and gaskets etc.  Bye bye another £1k I bet.  An indy to fit it (or yourself if you are skilled and brave enough) maybe half that.

I'm getting 15% off everything to date and fitting it all myself - mostly suspension but also coolant cap and other bits.

On 3/21/2022 at 2:54 PM, ½cwt said:

Most if not all Porsche centres will give 10% on parts, particularly to 'classic' owners a category the 986 now falls into.

Should get 15% off if you join the classic register. Its free, just ask at the OPC and they will sign you up.

17 hours ago, the baron said:

Yes and two people also helps

I hope i don't have to find out - the new cap arrived in the post this morning. I do like Porsche dealers!

Boot is dry, surround to the oil and water fillers is wet so appears that the (.01) cap which seemed to be securely fixed was the source. 04 cap on its way from Porsche Newcastle. Feeling very relieved - hopefully not prematurely! Thanks for the replies

Thanks both. I have a .01 cap - heres hoping it really is that simple!

Hi All

So, a spirited drive yesterday was curtailed by a red flashing light on the temperature guage and a Low Coolant Level warning message. Damn! However, I did notice that the engine temperature had not obviously increased. As I was on a dual carriageway I slowed right down but kept going to the next exit and shortly after the warning went out - and temp stayed normal. I stopped and checked the level on the expansion tank which appeared to be empty but it is difficult to see at the best of times. So I gingerly started to remove the cap just enough so excess pressure escaped, then removed the lid to confirm it looked empty. I had a 500ml bottle of water with me so decided to gradually pour it in with the engine running - noting that the temperatue was still "normal" - about 80. Looking underneath I could see a regular drip - but only a drip - falling off the subframe pretty much directly under the filler, but no big flood of liquid. I was on a garage forecourt and they had a tap so I decided to top up the coolant and try driving a couple of miles to the next obvious stopping point before either abandoning or driving the remaining 20 miles home. It only needed another 500ml before it was filled to the brim. I took it easy, all was fine, no warning, temperature stayed normal. Stopped again and coolant was dripping regularly but expansion tank was still full so decided to drive, gently, home. Checked the level on the way and needed maybe 200ml to top up but no other issues, temperature fine, got home no problem. 

I've only had time to take off the rear wheel and have a quick look but all I can see is there is a drain pipe inboard of the offside rear wheel and it is wet as if that was the source. I would be really grateful if someone could tell me where that comes from and suggest a reason. My only suspicions so far are that when it was assessed at DG in Feb they queried a possible noise from the water pump, or otherwise maybe the thermostat? What puzzles me is that it hasn't lost too much coolant and the temperature (consequently?) didn't go high. I guess it helps that there is so much in the system. Also I have never heard the cooling fans operate ... could that be related?

Thanks!

My indie (D&G) suggested these guys if you just want the blade https://www.keysinthepost.com/product/porsche-car-key-2002-transponder-chip/

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

There is a reason a broken spring is an MOT failure, however people can driver for a long time before even realising it.  I found a broken front spring on mine in Arpil2020 which was 11 months after the last MOT, no idea when it broke!  Once the end of a spring has broken it is unlikely to break again as it takes years or fatigue and corrosion build up to make teh weak point that causes the failure just tot eh point it is always flexing in the spring cup.

However, having refreshed my rear suspension you'll likely need a bit more than just a spring, for a start you should do them in pairs and they come in pairs.  Secondly to get it out you'll most likely need a new drop link(s) as they have a tendency to seize in the upright casting and they act as both the locator and clamp to locate the bottom of the damper, and unless very careful splitting the ball joint a new coffin arm.  If you need a new coffin arm you may well find the inboard camber bolt is seized.  Whilst you are in there it also makes a lot of sense to do the top mount and bump stop as you don't want to be paying to take it all apart twice to fit two fairly cheap parts.  It is a good day's work in a workshop, and then throw in tracking.  It is not a job to do away from home whilst on a road trip even if you have the parts!

... this is reality. I'm now travelling up with my mates. It was never a road trip as such but its a bloody long way to our far NW destination - Achiltibuie - from where we are tackling various mountains. My original practical reason for driving myself was that I had to be back earlier but that is no longer the case. The drive was going to be a big part of the event for me but not something that means so much to the others - so I'm travelling by Skoda instead!!!

Cheers 1/2cwt. I was going to go back through your posts for what was required but as ever you have provided quite the description above. I was going to do the full suspension refresh in the winter but the car has other ideas, having required new front springs already - but its ok, I used to drive Alfa Romeos ......

1 hour ago, Pinewood said:

order a spring if possible to your 1st or 2nd/3rd nights destination. Keep it in the car and enjoy your travels. 

I'm on your wavelength, but ...

I am planning a trip up to Scotland in the Boxster tomorrow covering 700+ miles in the week but checking a couple of things today with my friendly neighbourhood mechanic we found a rear coil spring is broken (I heard it go at the start of the week but couldn't see anything). There is still half an inch or so of it held in the bottom pan and his opinion is that it can't go anywhere. I've driven it through the week and not noticed any problem, we checked the ride height and it is equal both sides. Does anyone think it will be ok or is it likely to be a problem?

Thanks ...

On 7/11/2021 at 8:48 AM, Chris H1AVFC said:

I threaded 2 luggage straps through underside of seat frame with a piece of foam between them + seat base & once pulled tight they lifted the saggy cushion back into place. It was a temporary fix done 18 months ago lol 🙈🤣

Thats worked a treat - cheers!

8 hours ago, Chris H1AVFC said:

I threaded 2 luggage straps through underside of seat frame with a piece of foam between them + seat base & once pulled tight they lifted the saggy cushion back into place. It was a temporary fix done 18 months ago lol 🙈🤣

Thanks Chris - that's what I need, temporarily ... In fact, very temporarily, could just wedge something under the seat or is there gubbins in the way?