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fewtrees

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Posts posted by fewtrees

  1. So the front callipers are on and I’ve had to do the abs cycle to get the air out (finally).

    Verdict: Gt3 master cylinder is ok, solid but I doubt is needed for the road with a well bled system. Should be better on track as the standard unit travelled a lot.

    I’ve got matched track pads for the rear now. Theory is the balance is wrong and the front lock too early so that’s tomorrows job plus the gt3 brake ducts..

     

    • Like 1
  2. 21 minutes ago, BBB said:

    Was the master cylinder swap straight forward?

    It was really, I took the carpet out of the front as I knew brake fluid was going to get spilt..

    I used a syringe to remove the fluid in the reservoir.

    Removing the reservoir proved to be harder than removing the master cylinder itself. The hydraulic fluid lines are not tightly bolted and the 2 holding bolts for the mc itself are not too tight either. There’s room for a 22/20mm socket no problem.

    The hardest part is getting rid of the air out of the system. To help with this I bench bled the new mc beforehand so there’s less air to remove.

    • Like 1
  3. So today I’ve done the master cylinder. I bench bled the mc first and quickly swapped the units over.. Obvs still got air in there but I went around the callipers and got a load of air out.. Car stops and can lock the fronts but it’s ok.

    Tomorrow I’ll replace the callipers in the usual bleed order and see where I get to.
     

    Fortunately I have a motive bleeder which makes the job easy!

    Titanium/s.steel nips sound very cool - gonna check that out 👍

  4. I’ve all the bits, fluid, isocar thing to cycle abs if needed so all cool..

    Question is, which order?

    I’m thinking master cylinder first, bleed that with the old fluid still in there

    Then a Caliper at a time, usual order of furthest distance from abs unit first.

    Better to do inner or outer nipple first?

    Anyone got some sage advice?

  5. 1 minute ago, Crudeoink said:

    Continental Sport Contact 7's fitted to my 987.2 S this morning. Huge improvement over the Potenzas it had before. Loads quieter, very progressive and loads of grip. Haven't tested them in the wet yet, but very very impressed so far. 

     

    [img]https://imgur.com/a/8o24X8C[/img] 

    Very interested to hear how these work out - they are top of my list for a road-going set of tyres!

  6. 1 hour ago, brillomaster said:

    checked the tyre pressures, retorqued the wheel nuts, fitted the towing eye... trackday on saturday!

    Good luck :)

    Today, I received 4 callipers inc pads and 4 discs (job lot) for 390 quid. In my eyes that's a bargain and can now be sent off for refurbishment then eBay whatever remains!  

  7. 2 hours ago, bally4563 said:

    Dropped a pension plan , apparently according to her in doors it’s unlikely I will make next year !!! So make hay when the sunshine’s  , and Rob from what you have told me about your past , I think you would get that?!!

    Haha, I do mate 😁

  8. I took the headlights out both sides. I would suggest if anyone does this to get a non metal brush and brush the slides for any muck before putting them back. My lights were very difficult to come out as there’s fine dirt in the slides..

    Inspected the bulbs and both fillaments blown but these are quite recent Phillips bulbs.

    @Menoporsche Everything else worked fine ie Main/side lights..

     

  9. Has anyone had the same?

    Started the engine and turned the lights on. Dipped beam came on for about 1/5 second then gone. Warnings on the dash say check both left and right dipped beam. I’ve never had both lights go at the same time and seems a bit suspect to me… painful that there aren’t separate fuses for the headlights either and I wonder if an ecu has gone pop!

    Yet to check the fillaments as it’s freezing outside…

     

  10. It’s always been worthwhile on my bikes and I thought one of the main reasons on a 987 was to get rid of some of that flat spot caused by emission requirements? They’ve spent millions making sure you get a car that works for everyone, worst fuel, high temps, most stringent emissions and noise requirements.

    Not sure they’ve got the most out of the engine…

    • Like 1
  11.  

    On 9/18/2023 at 11:43 AM, CMA said:

    Those AWD LeMans Hypercars must be a dog to drive.

    All modern cars are full of electrowackery, even more so once the battery brigade become the only cars you can buy


    I bet they are a dog to drive, just like an F1 is.. requiring a professional racing driver to drive them 😉

  12. 2 hours ago, Mattman42 said:

    To be fair, thats not to bad - insurance prices across the board are going up due to "cost of living"

    Is it worth the hassle for £67? Have you called them and asked them for their best price?  I did the same recently for my sons car and got the premium down to £5 less than the previous year, when the comparison sites were slightly more

    I phoned A-Plan and their quote came out...............................£1 cheaper 🙂

    Think I'm going to stick with the current guys!

    • Like 1
  13. 36 minutes ago, map said:

    @fewtrees With the remarkable exception of @Escy’s car I think my 986 is possibly the most modified car on the forum.

    Everything is declared - and I mean everything - even stuff that might be “OK” is declared.

    Am fully insured for SD&P and full work use inc 2 other drivers based on 10k/yr mileage with a valuation of £15k and the cost of insuring the car is sub £600.

    I insure through A-Plan Thatcham. My experience has, to date, been entirely positive. Even the annual dance around to insure the thing is remarkably pain-free even if it time consuming.

    Give them a call and see how you get on. If they can insure me then you might be positively surprised.

    I will give them a call - mines currently £400 but the renewal is £467..

  14. I've got 10 days before my insurance expires and I've used the comparison websites to try and find a decent deal.. 

    I've tried a couple of "specialist" insurers too (Classicline, CaroleNash) but have been rejected outright... It's probably because I declare uprated suspension and I think this marks me out as a chav/yobbo most likely to be irresponsible and torment society. 

    The question is do you fess up and declare all those things that are non-standard? i.e. The exhaust/stickers/slightly better pads/alloy wheels?

    Turbo/Supercharging
    Transmission or Gear change
    Exhaust changes
    Air Filter
    Wheel arches
    Complete body kit
    Spoilers/Skirts
    Light changes
    Tinted windows
    Replacement of seats
    Roll Bars/Roll Cages
    Dashboard changes
    Uprated brakes
    Suspension
    Alloy wheels
    LPG conversion
    Bonnet Vents <-Really ?!??
    Air conditioning
    Front Splitter/Rear Diffuser
    Intercooler Upgrades
    Fuel System Charges
    Specialised paintwork
    Stripes & badges

     

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