danb
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Posts posted by danb
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1 hour ago, Patt said:
check for spiders in the cabin
A large moth in my case set off my alarm
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Took it to Cotswold Porsche Specialist yesterday for MOT, service, new plugs coils and belt - good thing @John2000 was there having his 981 worked on too and kept me entertained
MOT was a pass with only a bizarre minor for slightly damaged front number plate - think it has started to delaminate a bit… have been meaning to order some fresh plates anyway
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1 hour ago, phazed said:
Weighting?
There were no walls but the meter was placed on the floor 18 inches away at 45° from the tailpipe. I will get someone to hold it in the air for a better reading.
https://www.noisemeters.co.uk/help/faq/frequency-weighting/
It’s probably already using A weighting and that is probably what the track tests use, but worth checking
getting it on a tripod (best) or having someone hold it would be better too, as you are likely to get less boundary effect
says it should be at a height of between 0.5 and 1m
although their track day test is a drive by test at 20m distance rather than a static test…
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8 hours ago, phazed said:
Cheap decibel meter arrived.
Approximately 84 DB on idle and 102 DB at 4700 RPM.
Readings taken approximately 18 inches away from tailpipe at 45°. This seems to be the standard procedure at Track Days when they are measuring DB.
It would be good to get this under 100 so I will make up and fit a deflector.
Out of interest, my track day Skoda running 245 BHP, A 1.8 turbo with a sports cat and 3 inch stainless system ran no more than 87B at 5000 RPM. Noticeably quieter.
What weighting are you using on the db meter? Is it the same as what is used for track days?
are you measuring it outside? It needs to be a long way from any walls etc to stop reflected sound adding to the values (which can add a significant increase)
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The reason I was asking is as there seems to be a correlation between those who have the tube type headers plus Toyo type exhaust and don’t experience drone - my thinking being that the differing total pipe length and pulse timing moves the drone out of the 2.5-3k range
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38 minutes ago, Ninesomething said:
I have the toyosports on my car. Went on super easy, sounds great, no drone (hardly) still looks shiney after about 18 months and cost less than £200. It very much seems it's the luck of the draw with these things- someone on here had one and couldn't even get it to fit. If the drone is an issue it calms down as the system soots up. I drove mine on the dual carriageway yesterday with the roof up which I seldom do and there was no drone at all.
Do you have the standard oem headers /manifolds?
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23 minutes ago, TV8 said:
Perfect summary and the 986 is a lovely car!
Re the price, last autumn I achieved £18k for my 2000 996 without some of the big investments that one has had, plus it’s a 4 which I thought had greater value? It probably depends how quickly he needs it or wants it gone.
There are plenty of people who sent private messages on Facebook trying to talk my price down into the mid to low teens.I think 4 is probably less valuable than 2, the 4s on the other hand does command a premium because of the wide body and rear light bar.
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107hz ?
If you can make a recording/video of it then if it is in that region most mics should have a problem picking it up
anyone know what the volume of the rear storage cubby is - could be as simple as replacing the sliding doors with a tuned insert…..
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Has anyone got a recording of the drone? I’m wondering if you could vastly reduce it with a suitably tuned Helmholtz resonator but would need to know the primary frequency of the drone to calculate what might work.
I know they are not uncommon on some exhausts to combat droning but I’m wondering if one could be made to sit in the cabin to tune out the noise - would make experimenting much easier than welding stuff to the exhaust….
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Ah maybe, fingers crossed
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1 hour ago, Norbert said:
I bought this. Thanks for recomminding this. Import duty seems to be only 4% (shipping excluded).
It will be 4% plus 20%vat
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Non type approved cats are fine to fit if your car was registered before 1st March 2001
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As mentioned before :
Plug the details of wheel and tyres in there to see the difference.
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26 minutes ago, DeeCee said:
Ben, as I understand, ET40 will push the wheel 15mm towards the outside, (since the original offset is 55) and 9.5J will add another 25mm (since the original is 8.5). A total of 40mm further towards the outside of the car.
Does that sound correct?
Regards from Perth
Derek
The ET change sounds correct. But I think you have doubled the amount that the width change will make. 9.5j is 1inch wider so will add 12mm to each side, so it would be 27mm further out.
On the inside they will be 15-12mm i.e. 3 mm further away from the strut
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2 hours ago, Nobbie said:
That’s amateur level insurance fraud, I’ve just insured my Boxster as a Honda Jazz. Don’t tell anyone though😉
Wouldn't be surprised if that made it more expensive - they are notorious for having their catalytic converters stolen...
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1 hour ago, skullandbiscuits said:
Has anyone removed the roof from there Boxsters permanently? please ignore the reasons why.....
The chap I have just purchased a roof from had - as his boxster is a track car with a hardtop so it was pretty redundant....
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1 hour ago, greenman986s said:
Isn't the window aperture a different size?
Yes, it is. I wasn't clear in my post - it's a whole roof assembly (fabric, frame and glass)
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Just now, danb said:
Got the Aircon recharged at Kwik fit as it's never worked since I got it a year and a bit ago.
I thought I would chance it as the condensers had been replaced a few years back from what I can see and was hoping I wouldn't need to do it again...
All seemed to go fine and I now have working Aircon for £65
Also found a glass hood, which is being delivered tomorrow - so no more boxster chop providing I can get the old one off and new one on ok...
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Got the Aircon recharged at Kwik fit as it's never worked since I got it a year and a bit ago.
I thought I would chance it as the condensers had been replaced a few years back from what I can see and was hoping I wouldn't need to do it again...
All seemed to go fine and I now have working Aircon for £65
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1 hour ago, Dodgster said:
Unfortunately the 2001 S version has no gap whatsoever so there is no way to access it I’m afraid.
You can also get to the latch by removing 3 Allen bolts
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Do you have the mechanical or electrical boot release by the driver's door?
If it's mechanical then the lock is quite easily bypassed.
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They do a few at varying prices and torque... https://uk.ryobitools.eu/power-tools/drilling-and-screwdriving/impact-wrenches-5/
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Is your bonnet opener by the driver door an electrical or mechanical switch?
If it's mechanical you can undo a couple of bolts and get to the lock mechanism and bypass it quite easily.
See video showing bypassing it on a 996:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=9-Qg4icB06o&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
If it's the small electrical switch then as above you will need more power.
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Is your bonnet opener by the driver door an electrical or mechanical switch?
If it's mechanical you can undo a couple of bolts and get to the lock mechanism and bypass it quite easily.
If it's the small electrical switch then as above you will need more power.
Tick tick boom!
in 986
Posted
Came across this randomly the other day - seems very cheap for supply and fit (with exchange) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303897676156