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Everywhen

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Posts posted by Everywhen

  1. 4 hours ago, Nobbie said:

    Strong disagree on that approach. A £5k car will be in obvious need of lots of expensive work, you can’t polish a turd. Much better to hunt out the cars that have been well maintained by enthusiasts such as those found advertised on here. They’re usually not that much more expensive than badly maintained cars. Given the cost of labour and parts on these cars, buying cheap is a false economy unless you like sourcing parts off eBay and rolling around under your car at weekends.

    Certainly agree on making it drive like it should and hopefully a previous owner has already started replacing the suspension. My 986 was bought at 140k off here and had been well maintained, but it did need the suspension replacing. Luckily I don’t mind ebay and rolling around under cars. Transformed the car👍

    I too like eBay and rolling around under cars. I was also being a little provocative to make the point that these are now old cars. Even if you managed to find a car with low miles, full Porsche history, always kept in a heated garage with a blanket over the seats, and a receipt book as thick as the Bible, it would still need lots replacing due to age.

    You are right that cars that have been sorted cost not much more than cars that need work. I had a look on Autotrader and there is lots of choice, some at £11K! Most around £3.5 - £5k. I actually recognised some of the cars listed from when I was looking for mine 12 months ago, still for sale, same photos, same price. They look good in the photos too and apparently “drive nice”. Could this be because they need a lot of work doing?

    I read almost all the listings and only one mentioned having had the suspension done, the rest were just the usual “full service history” which based on my experience when looking for mine means a service book with some stamps on from years ago most from AN Other Motors and without any details of what was carried out. Now, if it were me advertising my car and I had spent the money on suspension, clutch, etc I’d mention it, which leaves me to be believe that these cars are sitting on 20+yr old suspension etc. Unless there are invoices to show what has been done don’t believe it.

    Beware of adverts that list the spec and very little else as this has most likely just been cut and pasted by a seller who really knows very little about that they are selling, probably a dealer selling it posing as a private seller as they don’t want it on the forecourt as they know it will need loads of work.

    Based on my experience when looking for my turd, most of these cars after the first 3-4 owners have been bought as summer runarounds and suffer from deferred maintenance, mine certainly had.

    I was actually taking to someone the other day who admired my 986 and said they had looked on Autotrader and was amazed to see how cheap they were. I said that they would need work and their reply was “If it’s got a MOT  just run it for the summer and sell it on, you’ve had a Porsche for the summer”. Hopefully, eventually, they then end up in the hands of people who inhabit forums like this and get the love they deserve.

    Buying off a marque forum is an excellent way of getting a car that has had the attention it needs.

    If you can’t, buy one with a rust free body, and a smooth running engine, everything else that matters can, and will, be replaced.

    These cars are so good that they drive well on old worn suspension, but don’t be fooled, put on some Koni SA dampers and change the tuning forks, Coffin arms etc. and your jaw will drop with the improvement!

     

    • Like 3
  2. 12 hours ago, DVA said:

    Thank you, my budget is around the £10k mark including any jobs I may need to do on the car. This one seemed to be at the top of that budget. 

    Then the purchase price needs to be no more than £5k then, the rest will be spent making it drive like it should.😉

  3. 17 minutes ago, Toddie said:

    Yes it is in Malton @ Sam Lander Porsche, a red Boxster S. Had they started work on it?

    just seen in your bio where you are from, did Sam do IMS work on your car?

     

    Yes, he's started work on it, gearbox off, clutch removed, it looked well worn.

    Sam did my EPS IMS, clutch and RMS back in May last year, he's a top bloke, no BS or keeping you in reception and nowhere near the guys working on your car, straight into the workshop, tea and cake. As it should be.

    I'm in York.

  4. 18 hours ago, Toddie said:

    @Everywhen Thanks for your reply the AOS was changed in 2019 & about 15k miles ago with a genuine Porsche part, so my Indie has decided to leave it alone. I believe that the RMS is being changed as well, I will check tomorrow. Thanks for the. Heads up. 
    How have you found the EPS IMS soloution? How many miles you got on it.

    5000 miles on the EPS IMS solution

  5. On 3/13/2024 at 7:10 PM, Toddie said:

    Took Boxster in to my Porsche specialist for a 4 wheel alignment & check over before trips to Holland & Ireland, whilst there the clutch release bearing decide to start making an horrendous noise, like the bearings have gone square!

    So car going to be having new EPS IMS bearing kit, new Sachs clutch kit, & new LUK dual mass flywheel- ouch.

    Car has done 72,000 miles and all those bits are original. Just good job it didn't happen on the Ferry to Holland!

    Was this in Malton? I’ve just been there and seen a Boxster on the lift with exactly that fault description.

    • Haha 1
  6. On 3/13/2024 at 7:10 PM, Toddie said:

    So car going to be having new EPS IMS bearing kit, new Sachs clutch kit, & new LUK dual mass flywheel- ouch.

    Car has done 72,000 miles and all those bits are original. Just good job it didn't happen on the Ferry to Holland!

    I have the EPS IMS “solution”.

    Put a new RMS in while it’s all apart it’s a simple job and not expensive at all. 

    How is the AOS? It’s much easier to change while the gearbox is out and again it’s cheap enough, especially compared to the clutch and EPS bearing.

  7. Checked tyre pressures and cleared the drain holes front and rear.

    A point to note when clearing the drain holes, especially the front, is that there is a valve in the drain hole about 15mm in, I found it was easy to turn this inside out when retracting the drain clearing spring I use, which would of course close the drain hole.

    Something to be aware of.

  8. 1 hour ago, fizz said:

    Took the car in for its MOT yesterday and as expected it was going to fail on the emissions but as its a friendly MOT chap he told me to sit there with the car sat at 4k rpm to get the cats hot as the carbon build up was causing the cats not to work properly. 

    Eventually managed to get it to pass and get under the limit but then i do a LOT of short journeys doing the school run everyday which is only about a 20 min round trip so never really gets up to temp as its usually in 1st gear traffic. 

    Next time i will be sure to do a Italian tune up before taking it in. Pretty sure i have a leak too in the exhaust somewhere as i got the banks 1 and 2 were running lean error come up so that might have an impact on it. I keep meaning to take the car to an exhaust specialist to get it looked at as ive replaced the clamps before with new OEM ones and i cant seem to locate the issue. 

    Need to get it sorted before the track day! :) 

    I had similar at my recent MOT, tester used a broom handle to let the car idle at 3k rpm for a while as he said Boxsters need to be hot to get them thought he emissions test.

    Once nice a hot it passed the test no problem.

  9. 10 hours ago, danb said:

    The reason I was asking is as there seems to be a correlation between those who have the tube type headers plus Toyo type exhaust and don’t experience drone - my thinking being that the differing total pipe length and pulse timing moves the drone out of the 2.5-3k range

    I’ve got the standard headers, my ToyoSport droned a bit when first fitted but it’s calmed down a lot with 2k miles on it.

    • Like 1
  10. To add some more info to the topic.

    For my 986’s recent MOT I removed the dB Killers I had fitted to my Toyosport exhaust so the testers could get probe right the way in.

    I’ve not put them back in yet so have been driving without. I can report that now the exhaust has 2k miles on it the drone is much less, it’s not a nuisance, and the sound above 5k RPM is awesome.

    Maybe they take a few miles to “bed in”?

    • Like 1
  11. On 1/22/2024 at 9:39 AM, kdh said:

    Mine is 2004 on 105,000 miles and I don't think the suspension has been touched apart from front drop links and top mounts.

    I find it very hard to diagnose whether suspension needs changing or not. There is a clanking/rattling coming from the rear when going slowly over uneven road surfaces but no leaks from shocks, no clunking and the car drives very nicely, even on 18" wheels. Nothing picked up on the MOT in April last year.

    In an ideal world I'd have a suspension refresh but have just done £1500 on brakes so that will have to wait.

    Out of interest, what would you change first - springs, shocks? both?

     

     

     

     

     

    At 105k its a given the suspension, MOT or not, is way past its best. Mine was like this at a mere 74K.

    If you think it drives nicely now just wait until it’s all been changed and aligned.

    The Koni SA dampers are highly recommended.

    • Like 1
  12. Was idly browsing online today and cane across a Daily Mail Online article regarding one of their journalists who recently bought a 2002 986 2.7 and was getting charged for ULEZ in London. I’d paste a link here but can’t find there article now.

    Among the typical DM waffle there is this:

    In my case it is to ask Porsche UK to contact the head office in Stuttgart to find the EWG-Übereinstimmungsbescheinigung fultig für vollständige Fahrzeuge for my car. 

    “This is the car's Certificate of Conformity which shows which agreed set of standards it reaches. 

    On page three of the document, Porsche have listed the emissions data, including the crucial NOx reading. 

    This is just below the section marked 'Höchstgeschwindigkeit'. For those that are interested, it's 250km/h.”  

    When this was submitted to theULEZ scheme he no longer has tot pay the charge.

  13. Taken my 986 for a MOT.

    Straight through, no advisories.

    Tester was most complementary about all the new suspension and brakes I’ve fitted, which was nice to hear.

    Headlight beam pattern was bang on despite it having a HID conversion and LED main beam bulbs.

     

    • Like 4
  14. Miraculously it seems no matter how corroded the dampers look they don’t leak, so pass the MOT. When I removed mine it took a different amount of effort to compress them and they all rebounded at vastly different rates so were way past their best.

    Ah yes, “differed maintenance”, I think most 986 suffer from this. Previous owners don’t bother because the parts are expensive, even if you shop around for the best deals. I spent just over £1300 on the Koni Special Active dampers, tuning forks, coffin arms, bolts, strut top mounts/bearings etc and my labour was free, add the cost of having someone do it for you at £60 - 100 p/hr “Plus VAT of course Sir” and it can easily cost more than the car will fetch.

    It is well worth doing though, the difference with a suspension refresh really is night and day, you won’t regret it.

    I was browsing Autotrader last night and looked at 986 prices, you can still pick one up for just over £3k with moon and back miles or pay (an optimistic) £11k for an example with 50k miles and “full service history” which was shown in the photos as the service book stamped up to 2019, no mention of a pile of invoices going back years.

    In all of the many adverts I looked at none mentioned that they had had a suspension fresh, discs and pads or any of the myriad jobs that will inevitably need doing sooner rather than later. I don’t think that it matters what you pay these jobs will need doing.

    Of course I could just be being cynical, and most have had the necessary work carried out, but I know if I was selling my 986 I’d be listing all the work I’ve done to it.

    I assume the sellers are looking for buyers who just want a convertible for the Spring/Summer and if it’s shiny then its OK, not the people on this forum who know what work they require. 

    I was chatting to the Indy I use and he said he gets a constant stream of new 986 owners, especially during the Spring/Summer, and they all need suspension, brakes, AOS etc, once they have been told how much it will cost he never sees most of them again.

    • Like 1
  15. Nothing to be gained by removing the front subframe for a suspension refresh.

    From recent experience, if its not been changed before be prepared for seized bolts, in particular the adjustment bolts on the rear, and drop links where they pinch the damper in the hub carrier.

    • Like 1
  16. On 12/26/2023 at 7:34 PM, danb said:

    Has anyone got a recording of the drone? I’m wondering if you could vastly reduce it with a suitably tuned Helmholtz resonator but would need to know the primary frequency of the drone  to calculate what might work.

    I know they are not uncommon on some exhausts to combat droning but I’m wondering if one could be made to sit in the cabin to tune out the noise - would make experimenting much easier than welding stuff to the exhaust….

    The dB Killers from eBay work just fine and are £8, a lot less work than making a Helmholtz resonator

  17. On 12/24/2023 at 6:05 PM, Norbert said:

     Buying the eBay style sport exhaust is affordable. I tried it and I was horrified at how bad the droning was. I measured 105!!! decibels around 2500-3000 rpm. That's permanent hearing damage territory in a few hours of drive. Not fun. There may be a way to decrease the drone with exhaust baffles but still not convinced.

    The dB Killers do work, I have them in my Toyosport back box, I couldn’t detect any loss of performance when fitted and the car is fine on the Motorway but still sounds good when revved out on a B road blast.

    This arrangement is a lot cheaper than any other solution, which for me would have been approaching 50% of the car’s purchase price. 

    Spend the big money on suspension, and brakes it makes far more difference.

     

  18. 19 hours ago, Norbert said:

    Coil packs are old for sure, however, I would expect other issues if it was misfire: CEL, rought idle and truble starting. I didn't see any of these. That being said I remember that I saw hairline cracks on the rubber coat of the coil(s) around a year ago. They are surely on the way out...  MAF I will check tomorrow!

    Oddly I didn’t get CEL, rough idle or trouble starting, misfire only manifested itself between 1500-2500 rpm. 

  19. 19 hours ago, rayan said:

    Sorry for double post! 

    I'm sort of expecting to do a reasonable amount of work to get one perfect and suspension rebuilt seems to be the biggest thing that most of them need. 

    In terms of rust, what's something to look out for? I've read they aren't awful in terms of body work (more than likely shoddy repair) but I'd obviously expect a good amount of underside crust.

    Yes, most 986 need suspension, even if the dampers are not leaking and pass the MOT they are almost certainly past their best by now. Apart from external corrosion mine were not leaking and had passed a MOT only 4 months earlier, but when I removed them the compression and rebound were different on each one. Koni Special Active are the way to go. It can be an expensive and frustrating job to replace it all but so worth it.

    Not a lot of underside rust, except the exhaust, the suspension components are Aluminum and the under trays shield the underneath from a lot. They are also well protected from the factory. The jacking points can show rust where a jack has scraped off the paint but its not serious and a rub down and a spray of Waxoyl will sort it out.

  20. 5 hours ago, 986T8 said:

    What’s the preventative PS repair?

    Just add a hose clamp to the line?

    Worth doing, the crimp on my car failed and all the fluid was dumped on my drive. The repair is a jubilee clip.

    You will need to put a jubilee clip on each end of the flexi, access to the inner one is a bit tricky.

    • Thanks 1
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