Everywhen

Replaced the corroded hard brake pipe from front of the car to the junction underneath on N/S.

Old pipe snapped like carrot in 3 places. The car had an MOT end of January and the corroded pipe which was clearly visible wasn't even mentioned as an advisory, MOT tester needs to go to Spec Savers.

Brakes bled with new fluid and they feel fantastic now.

13 hours ago, bally4563 said:

But on the same token it could be the IMS seal so good call . RMS don’t tend to let go just weep and not pour out

Spoken to the Porsche indy this morning, RMS had failed in spectacular fashion not often seen.

IMS bearing was OK but tight compared to a good one so perhaps it was only a matter of time. I've asked to keep the old IMS bearing to use as a paperweight.

No choice with the RMS, you could literally see the oil dripping after a drive out. 

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

This is the fear I have on my system.  It is staying put until it completely disintegrates or has to be taken off.  Minimum hassle and nearest to OE is Dansk.  Bear in mind the original system has done 20+ years so they are pretty impressive really.

BTW What year is the car?  Any particular reason you are doing the the IMSB as well as the RMS or just for peace of mind 'while you are in there'?

Thanks for the replies.

Exhaust is not the original, its from a 3.2S so its been changed at some point. And it disintegrated.

Car is MY2000, It was sat for 3yrs doing very little before I acquired it 6 weeks ago, 1000 miles of "enthusiastic driving" later and the RMS has let go and left oily deposits all over my drive. Top tip - burn the stains off your block paved driveway with a blow torch.

As the RMS needed doing urgently, I thought new clutch, car has done 75K although clutch may not be original of course, and why not do the IMS while its apart. Fitting the EPS IMS solution.

The fella who is replacing the clutch, RMS and IMS on my 986 2.7 has emailed to say the exhaust turned to dust when they removed it, and to call him on Monday.

I strongly suspect the call will simply be "You need another exhaust mate".

Am I correct in assuming that the ones available for £180 - £300 on eBay are all hideous drone boxes and that the only solution is either finding a decent used box or  a new one by Dansk?

8 hours ago, Fat Rat said:

Be careful if you end up with copies as the batteries and chargers are not compliant and can catch fire. 😬🤙

Batteries on the fakes are completely different to the genuine Milwaukee. 

As it happens when its warn could it be exhaust/Cat heat shield?

Just to add to this, I bought a "Milwaukee" Grinder and Impact set from Facebook MarketPlace, yes I know, please don't judge me, which of course turned out not to be Milwaukee at all. So beware if buying used. In my defence they are really good copies and have fooled friends when I've shown them both the real and fake tools.

As it happens the grinder is really good and gets a lot of use, the impact not so much, compared to my genuine Milwaukee impact its pathetic, but it did remove the suspension from a 2004 R53 Mini Cooper S that has been on the car for 16 yrs.

Genuine Milwaukee gear is  excellent, I also have their drill and 3/8" power ratchet. Same parent company as Ryobi.

Fixed the broken hinge on the centre console arm rest thing.

£2 hinge form B&Q and some pop rivets.

Replaced the struts on the rear boot.

Milwaukee medium torque, 881nM in a nice compact not too heavy or large package.

Good battery tech and the kit with 2 x 5a batteries and charger is well worth £350. Quite spendy but absolutely the best tool I’ve ever bought.

Here is the video I shot of the working/faulty Throttle Bodies.

Is it nice and dry underneath the passenger seat?

Some O rings cured my overactive horn when driving over bumpy roads.

It’s still quite sensitive though, the slightest touch sets it off.

Thanks for the replies, I'll give the O ring fix a go to start with.

Yesterday when I was parking up my Boxster a piece of card approx 5cm x1cm covered in black gaffa tape fell out of the steering wheel from the gap between the horn and the actual wheel.

This afternoon as I went for a drive, every the slightest touch and every single bump in the road made the horn go off, it was like a clown's car!

I now know what the card was for, thankfully I hadn't thrown it away so hastily pushed it back in place.

Has anyone else experienced this?

11 hours ago, Fat Rat said:

New or used part? And wonga? 😬🤙🏻

Used TB from Douglas Valley Breakers £170 + £12.95 postage.

I was recommended them by Sam Lander Porsche in Malton.

Their service was very good, gave the part number over the phone, it arrived the next day.

On 3/31/2023 at 9:48 PM, fizz said:

I'm planning to do this when the weather gets better. So is carb cleaner different to brake cleaning spray? 

My carb cleaner smells very different to the brake cleaner.

I’ve read that carb cleaner is safe for rubber, vinyl, and neoprene, brake cleaner not necessarily so.

Both are cheap enough to have on the shelf though.

49 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:

Well done on your prognosis. Please ignore my ignorance. TB, I presume you changed the throttle body or the return spring? 😬🤙🏻

Yep, swapped out the Throttle Body.

I couldn’t see a return spring, I assume its in the TB assembly which is difficult to open up.

Fixed the P1502 fault.

Replacement used Throttle Body from Douglas Valley Breakers

All part of my “Porsche journey”. 

Update.

A replacement TB cured the fault.

I’ve now got video of a working and non working TB as well as the data from my scanner. I’m preparing a video which I will post on YouTube.

Hopefully this will add to the knowledge out there is anyone else should get their same fault.

Disconnect the battery then the airbag won't go off.

There is no airbag behind this cover though, I took mine off last week to re-connect the open/close actuating arm.

Quick tip: remove the round vent underneath the main vanes to gain access to the third screw holding the assembly in.

I'm looking at Hydrodipping to revitalise interior trim.

Latest on my P1502 Code.

Had the car scanned on PiWIS by Sam Lander in Malton.

Pretty much confirmed the results I was getting on my OBD scanner.

We ruled out a wiring fault.

I then took the TB out and observed what it did on start up.

Rather than open fully, then return to the idle position the butterfly did a small flick.

 Video attached.

On 4/25/2023 at 1:14 PM, Patt said:

Could be a dodge Lamda sensor, could be your timing chain is getting a tad old and needs to be replaced.  but I'd start with cleaning out the throttle body and inlet tubes as they are free and often quite wet with oil.

Checked the TB, it was pretty clean.

I'm still learning about this car and realised that the DME isn't actually under the passenger seat but in the rear boot. The box under the seat is the alarm/immobiliser and it controls the hood, windows and locking among other things so not related to the P1504 code.

I've since put an OBD scanner on the car and when the fault code is present the scanner is unable to get any data on throttle potentiometers and throttle opening but with the fault cleared (and the car running fine) the scanner can read the DME and the figures all look OK.

I’ve been thinking about it all evening and I reckon something must have been disturbed in the wiring around the DME when took the seat out.

 This return of the throttle must take place within a certain time. If this time is exceeded, a fault is stored in
the memory

I’m thinking this signal is being sent correctly but not getting returned to the DME due to disrupted wiring

My car has an aftermarket alarm/locking device fitted that has been hacked into the wiring. Some joints are soldered with heat shrink others are wrapped in tape. Ideally I’d like to take the aftermarket thing out.
I’m getting myself into the frame of mind to unpick it all, never a nice job.