rayan

5 hours ago, Norbert said:

When your soft top is closed, that rope keeps the glass part of the top under tension. Without it the top will be creased a bit around the corners. Not a big deal if you ask me.

Thanks! 

Definitely not worth bothering with then, hasn't had them for who knows how many years so can't hurt going without a few more.

Hi all,

Just accessed the service hatch for the first time and noticed neither of the tension ropes that connect to the ball joint are present. There isn't even the mount for them on the roof, just an empty threaded hole. 

Doesn't appear to be affecting the roof operation but I'm curious if anyone knows what the downside of not replacing these would be. 

If I do opt to replace it looks like I'll need two of these: 986 561 191 02  

But I'm struggling to find the roof side part for these though, does anyone know what this would be? I've gone through the roof sections of the parts book but I'm not sure what it is as it's missing on mine! 

15 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

You could take out the pipe at the bottom and pour some water in to the hole, it should come out of the bottom of the car.  At least you will know if it's clear.

I removed the lot and washed in the sink.  Didn't realise it is meant to be taped to the side like yours is, that looks factory.  I will need to do that.

Got it all buttoned back up now, rodded the bottom section of the pipe and that's both clear and empty, used my trombone cleaner on the drain grommet/hole it didn't feel blocked but it definitely came out looking like there was dirt or something in there, if I get a chance at the weekend I might pop the undertray off and see what it's like from underneath. 

Also gave the mouldy section a liberal spray/wipe over with some isopropyl alcohol to hopefully try and kill it off somewhat.

Carpet is as dry as it was yesterday after I gave it a go with the wet vac so that's a good sign, pretty much confirms it's not coming in from outside as it was raining quite heavily last night and the car is parked nose up.

I checked the cabin filter and housing and it was dry, cleaned up the sealing edge of the scuttle panel that covers it too just in case. Definitely going to buy a new cabin filter though, it was OK looking but reminded me that I like to throw a new one in when it's an older "new to me" car. 

Annoying that this experience has put the fear into me regarding leaks though, going to constantly be on the look out for them now! Plus I've now got the wonderful job of pulling the carpet out when it gets a little warmer. Going to pull out the passenger seat at the weekend if it's not raining and adapt a tupperware container to act as a shield/protector for the module under the seat. 

Thanks for your help @phazed @TROOPER88 @Daboy3000 @½cwt and anyone else that's pitched in!

Only part I'm not 100% confident in is the rubber elbow joint so might have a look and see about replacing that when I do pull the carpet up.

8 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

You could take out the pipe at the bottom and pour some water in to the hole, it should come out of the bottom of the car.  At least you will know if it's clear.

I removed the lot and washed in the sink.  Didn't realise it is meant to be taped to the side like yours is, that looks factory.  I will need to do that.

That's a good shout, will probably give that a go tomorrow if it's not raining. 

Going to see if the mould wants to shift at all as well, it's probably too deep rooted in the foam to get it from the surface but a bit of isopropyl alcohol certainly can't hurt. 

The tape seems quite brittle so I expect it may be original, will probably retape it once I've cleared the drain bung out. 

26 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

I saw a video where they cut off about 5mm from the bottom of the rubber bit that goes into the floor as they have the tendency to close together and block the flow.

I'm glad it's not leaking from higher, should be easier to sort.

Yeah I saw that one too, that's the only job left to do to be 100% sure it's clear. I ran a 30-40cm zip tie through it and it went through OK but can't be sure it's not got any crud blocking up the bottom. 

53 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

I believe the drain pipe would only leak when you are using your AC.  If it's suddenly wet after rain then It must be coming from somewhere externally.

I think it is A/C, I've got the fear it's leaking in from everywhere now though! 

It's stopped raining so just had another look, the sponge you mentioned felt dry, grabbed a microfibre cloth and shoved it against it as well and it was still dry (it was cold so wanted to be sure). 

Took a couple of pictures and it definitely seems to be localised around the A/C drain area and looking at the lovely black growths, it's been dripping for a while!:

Noticed where the rubber tube joins the plastic hose looked a little wet / not very secure: 

Just in case I threw on a spare cable tie, want to see if it gets any worse/continues: 

Carpet was a bit of a pain to get back in place though, the foam panel/tray is staying in the garage as I was getting very angry with it. I'm sure it's because the carpet isn't back in place correctly but I had to stop before I broke it. 

8 minutes ago, phazed said:

 

carpet removed prior to drying out and empty passenger side showing floor.
 

Looks like the water on mine is fairly localised to the little triangle section by the drain pipe. Obviously longer it gets left the more it's going to soak the foam and fill the other sections though. Really not looking forward to addressing it! 

5 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

If you feel above the black tray/foam on the passengers side, under the dash, attached to the bulkhead, you should feel some sponge like material.  Is this wet?

Is your windscreen delaminating in the corners?

I am wondering if we happen to have the same problem.

So far I have cleared the drains, replaced both drip trays under the clamshell, replaced the drivers door membrane, replaced a missing 55mm grommet in bulkhead, replaced the seal that covers the heater matrix/coolant pipes, yet I still have two leaks.  (one is through the drivers side window and i am hoping some adjustment to the window might fix this).  

I am at my wits end! 😪

I'll need to hop back out and check the spongey material, luckily I've left the foam panel off so should be an easy thing to check.

Windscreen is in good shape with no delamination in the corners. 

It does seem these leaks get a little bit annoying, I wouldn't mind if it was sunny and warm! I'm hoping when I have a closer look at the drain pipe it's leaking from there but usually when it comes to things like this it's never as simple as it should be. 

Had a quick look while I was on my lunch break, got the foam/rubber panel off and pulled up a small bit of carpet. Drain pipe and the area where it drains out were both dry so that's good, also checked the state of the rubber 90 degree hose and that felt dry but I've not driven it today so can't be sure. Did notice some water droplets on the metal bulkhead above/behind the black box with the drain hose connected to it. Gave up as it's raining and I didn't fancy getting myself and the car soaked.

100% see what you guys mean regarding the carpet! I didn't get very far before the centre console started stopping me.

19 minutes ago, phazed said:

I have just had exactly this with the 986 I bought. I knew it had been leaking, so was prepared. After putting a dehumidifier in the car for a couple of weeks the carpet seemed bone dry. After 3 months working on the car in the garage. I thought I would lift the carpet edge and check the underlay. Unbelievably, it was absolutely sodden! It was probably holding 1 – 2 pints of water as the foam soundproofing/underlay is about 2 inches thick. 
Also, having just spent a fortune having the immobilizer diagnosed, an exchange unit purchased and programming of new keys, and unit to the car, don’t delay!

I would definitely remove the passenger seat, unplug the immobilizer, and put it in an airing cupboard or similar to ensure it is completely dry. Next remove the carpet. You could make your life easier if you release the center console screws, lift up the rear and the front slightly to gain access to the center of the carpet and cut along the center joint which is only in a few areas because of the handbrake, gear change and remote mechanism. You can then remove the passenger side carpet, easing it out from under various trims. It is very doable and doesn’t take long. When you have removed it, you will see just how thick it is and how much water it more likely is retaining . My carpet was so wet even after being in a garage for 3 months that I strapped it foam side to a radiator for about best part of a week. It took that long to dry out! Hopefully your immobilizer isn’t damaged otherwise it can cost you north of 1000 pounds for repairs  or replacement.  
 

Here endeth my costly experience!

I foresee this weekend being extremely fun! Bit annoyed as the carpets were all dry when I bought it even if I gave them a proper push. 

It hadn't been used much in the past couple of years so expecting that a couple of weeks of constant usage with the A/C on all the time has definitely not helped things.

Definitely going to do something to protect the module even if I don't get a chance to get the carpet out just to buy extra time. 

16 minutes ago, phazed said:

As above. A real easy job with the correct tools. The seats actually weigh 28 KG each!  Ensure you put the roof down first to make it easy to remove.
 

I may have missed a post above but make sure the rear roof drains are clear. My car had a massive hand sized mushroom growth, completely blocking up and growing into the drain.

Went over all the normal drains with a trombone cleaner and then tested they worked weekend before last so fairly happy with the state of those, going to fit some of the 987 drain guards when I next get the roof down. 

19 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

It hooks in place on 2 or 3 lugs along the front bulkhead and is tapped to the cover at the bottom of the A-pillar.  It is easier to remove if the centre console and seat are out as it 'gives' more not being pinned in by them.  You will also be able to check the alarm module area better without the seat in.  Just don't snag the seat loom, make sure you undo the wiring harness to the under side (and the seats are heavy).  Bolts need a female Torx socket (E12 IIRC).  10mm 12 point can do it but if the bolts are stiff you risk burring the splines off with one of those. 

Thanks! I've got a set of E bits from when I had to do a load of work on a BMW so they'll come in handy! 

Just now, Daboy3000 said:

I think my carpet has been up a few times, the underlay is very broken up and mostly stuck to the bottom of the carpet.  If you remove the side piece attached to the centre console you might find you can lift enough up to get to the wet.  If you want to go crazy then it would be seats and centre console out, then the whole carpet will come out easily.

Thanks! Will have a look and see how stubborn it wants to be a bit later. Just going to try and get to the source of the leak and get it sorted for the moment and try to pull as much water out as possible. 

Think I'll save the full carpet out for when it's a bit less wet out so I can properly clean it and get it dried. 

10 minutes ago, charlieboy2608 said:

As mentioned by others you might be wise to remove the entire carpet to gain access to the foam underlay which holds alot of water.....

If left the sensitive immobiliser module under the passenger seat could create all kinds of issues leaving your vehicle inoperative.

Luckily it's not made it that far yet so the section under the seat is dry, going to take some precautions though to make sure it doesn't become expensive. Unfortunately don't have anywhere I can leave the carpet to dry with all the rain we're getting so it's going to be a wet vacuum, dehumidifier and towels to get by until it's a little warmer. 

16 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

There is a pipe from the ac drain right where that leak is.  Lift up the carpet and you will see it and where it should be going.

This was the state of mine, unfortunately the pipe was not the problem and I still have a leak from under the dash.

I'm expecting to find similar! 

Is it a massive hassle pulling the carpet just on this section? From what I've seen it's taped (or something to the other side but there isn't a huge amount holding it in.

24 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Get underneath the car and ensure that you can see the drain and try and unblock it

Will probably have to wait for the weekend to get at it from underneath, might have a look to make sure the top of it hasn't split or broken today. 

I'd be tempted to run the trombone cleaner down it but I'm cautious that might make more mess.

6 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

That’s your AC drain causing that 

Just checked a video and yeah that definitely could be it, likely from the top of the drain tube as there's a wet patch right from where that is. 

Would make the most sense as there is no water pooling in the front scuttle. 

Time to pull the carpet up and have a look! 

3 minutes ago, Happy Days said:

I had a leak in the 718 a few years ago. Removed the offending carpets (on the 981 and 718 they are two seperate sections). Hung in a hot greenhouse, they took about 4 days to drip dry. The foam holds a LOT of water.

Yeah as it felt very wet I'm fairly sure it's going to be a carpet out job, it got rained on almost non-stop for the whole of last week so chances are there's quite a bit getting in.

2 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Dry out your under seat module pronto. Use old towels to soak up water. Corrosion of electronics can cost you 600 quid or more. 

Luckily it's not reached the module yet, under the seat is nice and dry so it's more of a preventative measure. 

3 minutes ago, Happy Days said:

I have often wondered why the electrical unit could not be cable tied onto the base of the seat, hanging in the air, and therefore at least removing its soakability by a little bit.

Good point, might see if that's viable or if it's going to be a case of butchering a container and getting out the silicone sealant.

Think I might reverse it onto the driveway as well to prevent it soaking down towards the module.

As I expect is the case for a lot of people, the 986 I bought that was kept in a garage all the time has sprung a leak in the rain we've had recently. 

Noticed it's in the following location and it's holding a decent amount of water as it's quite squelchy when pushed:

Top of the passenger floor mat is dry so suspect it's running in under the carpet, is this going to be front drains? I've given them a clear with a trombone cleaner but I may not have done a good enough job! If it's not the front drains is there any other possible location it could be coming from? If it helps I also park on a fairly sloped driveway so there is a potential that's not helping things. 

To help rule things out, the passenger door card feels dry and behind passenger seat feels dry. If I have time this weekend I'm going to get the wet vacuum on it and potentially look at adapting a tupperware container to sit the under seat module in. 

22 minutes ago, Everywhen said:

From experience. Look for a car with no rust and a good engine and transmission. Everything else that will need doing is a bolt off/on job, much easier and far less stressful than welding and removing engines.

Is there documentary evidence the suspension (arms and dampers), RMS, brakes, plugs, coil packs, AOS, exhaust bolts, strut top mounts/bearings, ARB bushes and hard brake lines have been done? As you will to have to do them sooner rather than later. There is a reason Boxsters are cheap. 

Once all this is fixed it’s difficult to put into words how good they are, only facial expressions convey the feeling.

Sorry for double post! 

I'm sort of expecting to do a reasonable amount of work to get one perfect and suspension rebuilt seems to be the biggest thing that most of them need. 

In terms of rust, what's something to look out for? I've read they aren't awful in terms of body work (more than likely shoddy repair) but I'd obviously expect a good amount of underside crust.

2 minutes ago, TV8 said:

If you like a black car, there is a good looking car for sale on Facebook 986 uk group before it gets advertised on chargeable places like autotrader. I don't know the car or the owner but, colour aside, it looks like a car worth investigating. Assuming you are looking for a car, good luck with your search.

Could you share a link if possible? 

4 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Starter for 10

https://www.porscheclubgb.com/regions-registers/registers/modern/boxster/boxster-buyers-guides/986-buyers-guide

2 minutes ago, iborguk said:

I wrote this as a set of thoughts when buying a 987…most applies to the 986 too…

Some suggestions aside from all the regular 2nd hand car stuff to look for (tyres etc) ...don't let any of it put you off they are all brilliant cars when well sorted , just sharing some tips for what I would look for now I've owned a couple...

Buy on condition not mileage is a forum mantra and is sound advice.

Check the roof operation and that it sits correctly both sides, easy fix re roof elastic normally if it doesn't,.

Check Windows go up/down with roof. Window regulators can get tired at this kind of age. If you hear rattling coming from the doors when driving that could be a few things including worn regulators, window position (which is adjustable for both vertical position and rake).

Check the roof rear drains are clear, which you can see with the roof half-way up. This is normally a clue as to how careful the owner is in looking after the car. Blocked drains can lead to water getting into the car under the seats, causing havoc with the electronics under the passenger seat. Drain check and clear should be a regular maintenance item for any Boxster, especially those living outside most of the time.

Check the areas under the seats are dry (pull up the carpet and check the foam underlay, behind the seats, don't just look at the carpet) and check it shows isn't damp/shows no signs of water ingress (again re drains)

Evidence of coolant pipes including cross-overs having been done (about 1k to do that lot - mine needed them done at 32k miles and when it was 10 years old)

Inside of disk brakes - they like to corrode even though can look fine from the outside (tip always give the car an Italian tune-up after washing the wheels, helps prevent this)

Brake bleed nipples like to corrode on the callipers (you normally only find out at brake fluid change time)

If a Porsche original battery check the negative terminal for week and year stamp - will tell you how old it is. Anything over about 5 years old be prepared to replace it.

Check what suspension parts have been replaced - lower coffin arms are a common requirement (check for rattle, rattle, rattle) when driving

General exhaust condition. The manifold studs to the rear boxes are a weak point, check to see if they have been replaced, originals are made from Camembert, rust to nothing and allow the triangular joint to blow. Easy to fix in the right pair of hands. I had mine done for £220 by someone who knew what they were doing in 2 hours.

Check the aircon/climate control is working. Stone hits to the rads/condensers are not uncommon with the leaks they bring. Assuming UV dye in the system a UV torch (few quid from Amazon) will show any leaks.

If it has heated seats check they are in working order.

The 987.2 interior feels a step forward to a more modern car, as one would expect.

Standard lights are poor, go Bi-Xenon if you can, cars with headlight washers should designate those are on-board.

Check front end paint work for stone chips. Lots of these cars will have front end resprays as they pick up stone chips.

Service History (a guide not a guarantee car will be in great condition). Plugs, Serpentine belt and Brake fluid are all extras in Porsche servicing land - again ensure they have been done as needed.

Coil packs can crack with age and when they get hot in the wet and cause misfires (ask me how I know - had this happen 2 weeks into ownership of a 987.1 !)

I hope some of that helps.

Thanks, some bedtime reading for tonight!

Hi all,

Quick one, I've had a look through a few pages here and the general buyers guides in the sales sections but does anyone have/know of a comprehensive buyers guide for 986's? 

Thanks in advance!