marcusjd

Hi all. I have this issue with my car, seems like lots of others do too..

I've been looking for a replacement indicator unit but they are becoming increasingly rare / expensive.. my worry is a replacement (£120+) will only have a short life before it succumbs to a similar fate ..

I'm on the lookout for a broken 2-stalk unit. With this i aim to strip and re-engineer the broken aspects (happens to be my day-job..)

I have 3D CAD design and plastic and metal printing at my disposal + an electronics test lab..

So if anyone has a broken unit they want to pass on, please message me as i'll pay all postage costs.. I'll then see if i can come up with a 'fix' that can be rolled out to anyone who needs it.

Thanks

Fitted an Air/Oil Separator (AOS) with the guidance of @bally4563 , who has the skill of making a challenging task look and feel simple.

Enjoyable couple of hours talking Porsche, Engineering and Viz...  and I now have a motor which is smoke free...!

Cheers for that, Mick

Thanks for all the replies... one common factor seems to be standing out..!

Looks like i'll be digging deep....

As per title (was unsure where to post this..!)

Borrowed a friend's DeWalt over weekend to do discs/pads on my VW Touareg... it made the job effortless... now i need one..!

Any recommendations for a decent all-rounder which the cost wont break the bank?

Cheers!

cheers.

the frunk release mechanism is temperamental.. it seems to like locking things away with no notice given.

To be honest i rarely use it for that reason.. Repair / replace is on the long list of niggles. This should give me the kick I need. 

Done.

Found behind drivers side headlight. Main pain was the car's parked nose-down on a sloping driveway.. Front drivers wheel close to a fence so an access nightmare.

You only truly realise how heavy a Boxster is when you have to move it uphill..

anyway.. at least the locking nut was in the car..

Thanks for that. I’ll get the other side off tomorrow 

Hi.

I've stupidly let my battery go too low to be conditioned through my CTek/Cig lighter port.

My electrically operated frunk latch (facelift model) is temperamental and is being an ar*e by not allowing me to pull the long fuse and add power...

I've got the passenger front wheel off, arch liner out and i'm struggling to find a manual release cable...  

Couple of Q's... 

Is the manual release cable a real thing on a 986 facelift?

Is it on the passenger side front?

What the heck am i looking for...???!

as always, i appreciate any help and advise.

mine went in the bin...

I used 'AutoDoc', the App recently for rear brakes on my VW Touareg.

I went for OE Brembo units: Discs (c/w hard coated tophats), pads and wear sensors for £180 delivered

Cost was far cheaper than the usual noted Suppliers, free delivery from Germany... suited me

Fitted yesterday.

What a difference - each gear now has a position rather than a general area. Should have done this years ago...

Took an hour or so as i spent time cleaning/vacuuming as i went. No issues noted - it's only bolts (..to coin a phrase i heard recently..!)

Great mod, recommended.

Hi - I bought this item.

The gearchange on my car, especially downshifting to second is rubbish - hope this improves this..

I will do a write up with images when the weather's warmer and i get around to fitting it.

Also - my next steps are 'box oil flush, cable easing / greasing, clutch pedal helper spring replacement and finally clutch / flywheel replacement..

30 minutes ago, marcusjd said:

I have this same cabin temp issue.. does anyone know if a guide for access/replacement exists for this component? thanks!

just looked back - it's been attached - please ignore this!

On 9/4/2022 at 7:01 AM, pacificjuha said:

Repalced the cabin temerature sensor couple of days ago. Which was an easy thing to do. Now the automatic climate control actually keeps the temperature very nicely as dialed in 😎

Before the sensor change if I wanted warm air at all, the request had to be dialed on 29,5 celsius or 'Hi' -setting.

Old part that I took out looked fine, except being very dusty / dirty. I plan on cleaning this pictured old part with something, maybe MAF sensor cleaner, and testing if the reason for not working properly was the 'dustinsulation' on the sensor. This would be good for anybody to check out before purchasing a new/used and expensive sensor.

I have this same cabin temp issue.. does anyone know if a guide for access/replacement exists for this component? thanks!

argh.. £1.79  damn DP's

paid £170.9 per litre for E5.

Feel fleeced...

Well i'm still in trouble.... horn also sounds when alarm goes off. hadn't noticed properly as the siren really screams.. so alarm only disconnection a bit pointless

Going to have to investigate via an auto electrician soon.

Will keep posted.

Fantastic..!  thanks for that!

Hi Paul - no. siren screams and wakes the dead...

I've also tried locking twice on exit (gives two horn chirps) but still the siren sounds when i unlock..!

i'm sure this question has been asked / answered but i cannot find it...

My car has stopped locking from the key remote. Until i fix this i have to use the key in the door.

This however sounds the alarm, when i unlock it, upsetting wife/neighbours, etc...

So Which connector on the alarm module do i unplug so as i dont trip a code or screw up immobilisers, etc..???

Thanks again for any advice

Had Drop Links and Front Top Mounts + bearings fitted.

I'm aware of the drop mount tendency to, er .. stick - so I subbed the job out to my local garage.. They did a cracking job at £150 all in for labour. I supplied the parts.

Would seem that the top mount had become detached: sleeve to rubber to mount on both sides..!

Anyway - NO creaks now, steering is smoother and I am a happy bunny..

Car decided to show it's grateful side by failing to lock on the key buttons (been getting progressively worse..) and now has a (quite bad) exhaust rattle, poss baffles...

So that's now the next job on the list and i still haven't had the clutch done....

But the clamps themselves are good.. (strange combination of mild steels + stainless..!)

So i can replace the bolts with stainless but do 986 systems require assembly paste/goo -  or are they dry joints...

Thanks in advance

it does - thanks for the replies. my nearest OPC is Wilmslow and from previous purchases they offer a standard 10% discount for all 'classic' models..!

thanks all - i'll use the OPC. For note - i dont wish time/labour to be sucked up into trying to remove seized / galled bolts.. i'd rather cut everything free and start afresh..!

Hello. I'm gathering components for a front end refresh using mainly Spyder Performance parts. (Quality of delivered parts looks good, prices great...)

Can anyone please advise on where to purchase all new bolts from..? I have a list i have taken from Design 9111's exploded diagrams.. 

I'm now over 40 quid for 3 sets of Hex Hd bolts and a couple of nuts..:

I can imagine they are HT Stl, Bright Zinc (BZP) plated. They are 1.5Pitch (fine) and are not in my usual 'go to' Suppliers such as RS Components...

Any ideas or recommendations would be greatly accepted.

Cheers