How to: Change brake pads (with video)

[vroomba]

Brake pad change

Was checking my brake pads the other day so thought I’d make a video how to guide for changing your pads yourself. 

You may think that working on brakes yourself is too dangerous in case you get it wrong and have a crash.  Well, obviously don't attempt anything you're not confident on but here's a video that shows you how how simple it is and could save you a few hundred pounds at the dealers.

Let me know your thoughts!

https://youtu.be/fyNn_C63eMc

I’ve a 2001 986 Boxster S but this guide should be the same for the 987,996 & 997 as they all share a lot of parts.

(if you want to know how to check your pads and discs I’ve also done a video here:  https://youtu.be/PQDYOK2qNFc)

I track my car so I‘ve fitted the EBC Bluestuff pads.  Street legal in the UK for most cars (check with your insurer first), bite well from cold and can last a good 15 mins or so of heavy braking on a track day without fade.  I’ve had them up to 400 C on a few sessions and they’ve been ok. 

 EBC do a track only Orangestuff pad if you don’t use your car on the road although I’ve not tried it.

 

It’s a relatively simple process:

·         Remove the wear sensor

·         Pull out the pin

·         Push out the bolt

·         Pull out the pads

·         Insert new pads

·         Replace the bolt, retainer, pin and sensor

·         And, finally,  bed in the pads

 

Here are the tools you’ll need:

·         Screwdrivers

·         Pliers

·         Rubber Mallet

·         And copper grease

·         G-clamp to push pistons in (optional)

 

1. First you will need to lift the car and remove the wheels.  (I’ve a video on this if you need to know the lifting points https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k )

2. Using pliers remove the brake wear sensor.

3. Then remove the pin.

4. Using a rubber mallet and screwdriver tap the bolt out

5. This is the retaining clip the bolt was holding in place

6. Using the screwdriver level the pads out.

7. Now is the perfect time to inspect the piston boots.   Check for any cracks or gaps in these pieces of rubber because if any dirt or grit gets behind them it can cause the seals to fail and all your brake fluid to leak out.

8. Put some copper grease on the back of the new pads to help avoid any squeaks

9. Insert the new pads.  If a piston is in the way use a g-clamp to push them back in.  If you don’t have one you may have some luck by re-inserting the old pad and pushing on that to move the piston in.

10. Replace the bolt and retainer

11.  Insert the pin

12. And attach the brake wear sensor

 

To have the pads work at their best each manufacturer will have a bedding in process for you to follow.  Instructions will be found in the box his or on their website.  In general though here are some guidelines:

 For the first 300 miles or so try to use the brakes lightly and avoid any sudden, hard braking unless  it’s unsafe not to.

You should now see a blue band on the disc where the pad material has stuck to it.  You will now need to do 10 sudden stops from 60 to 10 miles an hour in an attempt to get the brakes hot.  Continue driving  after this to allow the brakes to cool and only stop and put the handbrake on when the discs are cool or you risk fusing the handbrake on.

 

 

 

 

 

[Stu wilson]

One thing most people never mention, but was drummed into me when I started as an apprentice nearly 30 years ago. Should always take off the master cylinder top. Reason being when you push the pistons back in the caliper the fluid goes back to the master cylinder, if it has at some point been topped up the excess fluid has to go somewhere, normaly forced out the breather/vent in the lid. Not ideal to have brake fluid squirting out of effectively a pin hole, it will certainly spray some distance. Only takes 30 seconds to take the top off

I always take the top off and put a rag round the neck so it should absorb any excess fluid