Sword Posted March 29, 2022 Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 Hi All, could anyone help with details as to how to lock the timing on the 3 chain engine so I can replace the IMS flange seal. It's a 2007 987 with the large IMS bearing but I have a leaking IMS flange seal. The RMS is fine. I can lock TDC but do not have the details as to which cams I lock and which tensioners to release. I can probably guess but would rather not so if someone could advise that would be great. thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sword Posted May 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2022 OK to answer my own question and for anyone who wants to know. Lock engine TopDeadCentre remove the (green) cam covers and Lock the cams with the appropriate tool remove the the TWO chain tensioners on the gearbox side of the engine. note where each one went as they go back in the same place undo and remove the IMS centre nut remove the 3 nuts holding the IMS flange cover in place take a deep breath and gently lever off the IMS flange cover. Phew! I also removed the IMS bearing cover ( as recommended by others) Replace the IMS flange rubber seal and lubricate the rubber seal with silicon grease and insert the IMS flange back into engine Make sure you put the IMS centre nut back on as soon as you have enough thread showing to do it. Gently tighten the centre nut to pull the IMS flange cover slowly back into place insert 3 new IMS flange bolts to 10nm and tighten the IMS centre nut to 20nm Reinsert the chain tensioners with new crush washers to 80nm Done! - now onto the RMS/DMF/clutch etc. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw696 Posted June 10, 2022 Report Share Posted June 10, 2022 On 5/9/2022 at 8:04 PM, Sword said: OK to answer my own question and for anyone who wants to know. Lock engine TopDeadCentre remove the (green) cam covers and Lock the cams with the appropriate tool remove the the TWO chain tensioners on the gearbox side of the engine. note where each one went as they go back in the same place undo and remove the IMS centre nut remove the 3 nuts holding the IMS flange cover in place take a deep breath and gently lever off the IMS flange cover. Phew! I also removed the IMS bearing cover ( as recommended by others) Replace the IMS flange rubber seal and lubricate the rubber seal with silicon grease and insert the IMS flange back into engine Make sure you put the IMS centre nut back on as soon as you have enough thread showing to do it. Gently tighten the centre nut to pull the IMS flange cover slowly back into place insert 3 new IMS flange bolts to 10nm and tighten the IMS centre nut to 20nm Reinsert the chain tensioners with new crush washers to 80nm Done! - now onto the RMS/DMF/clutch etc. Very Good information thanks. I have bought the timing kit and have removed the transmission ready to do mine 05 987.1 3.2 S. Where did you buy the parts from please Dealership or Specialist ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sword Posted June 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 sorry for late reply I was travelling. I used various places for tools and parts. Dealers do actually tend to be pretty competitive so I always check there first and tend to be very helpful with part number! Some parts from Design911. As for tools, eBay, Clutch all done now with new transmission mounts and now I'm back I'm doing the front engine mount - oh the joys of an older Porsche! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 I'm not sure if mine is an RMS leak or IMS ?? what do the experts think? and this is the back of the flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw696 Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 That's the IMS seals I did mine last year here in France. Bought the locking kit and not a bad job to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 49 minutes ago, philw696 said: That's the IMS seals I did mine last year here in France. Bought the locking kit and not a bad job to do. Thanks @philw696 ok - looks horrendous with locking of stuff and prizing out of plugs etc...locking cams... I read today - which is all I seem to have done today - that you can see if the cam deviation is ok and therefore only lock the left side cams... Did you remove the inner seal - again I have read hot topics on the 'leave as is' versus the 'remove it will help keep oiling' compounded with the added posts about then needing a DOF IMS flange cover so it has cooled, filtered oil as no inner seal and high RPM means it doesnt get oiled and could die that way! I'll clean it all up now in any case see if I can see better.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw696 Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 I did remove the seal as recommended by a specialist. The hardest part for me as until getting my Boxster I had never really worked on one was getting my head around working on a flat 6 and working underneath it. Having done mine I would happily do another. To be fair doing my front shocks gave me more grief than doing the IMS seals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 I had a look and you can see the Cam ends easily on the left from the gearbox side actually all cleaned up now guess the issue now is its not likely to statically leak.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sword Posted July 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 It's difficult to tell from the picture but mine looked in a similar way so I did the IMS flange seal and RMS. I found the IMS seal rubber had gone hard with age so was probably the reason for the leak. My RMS looked fine when removed but I replaced anyway as that was the easy one to do. As for static oil leak I did get a very slight visible leak from the IMS flange but you won't see anything if RMS is leaking that way as the oil doesn't rest that high. Yes I locked the cams on the left side viewed from the gearbox side, removed the tensioner on the lower right and locked the engine in TDC. There was some cam deviation but I was still able to get the cam lock tool in (just!) I took the chance and removed the inner seal on the bearing you mention (as per Jake Raby recommendation). There was no grease left in my bearing so I've just got my fingers crossed now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sword Posted July 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 34 minutes ago, Sword said: It's difficult to tell from the picture but mine looked in a similar way so I did the IMS flange seal and RMS. I found the IMS seal rubber had gone hard with age so was probably the reason for the leak. My RMS looked fine when removed but I replaced anyway as that was the easy one to do. As for static oil leak I did get a very slight visible leak from the IMS flange but you won't see anything if RMS is leaking that way as the oil doesn't rest that high. Yes I locked the cams on the left side viewed from the gearbox side, removed the tensioner on the lower right and locked the engine in TDC. There was some cam deviation but I was still able to get the cam lock tool in (just!) I took the chance and removed the inner seal on the bearing you mention (as per Jake Raby recommendation). There was no grease left in my bearing so I've just got my fingers crossed now! * very important correction - removed the TWO timing chain tensioners on the gearbox side - put them back in the same place! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw696 Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 Also once the locking tools removed turn the engine over twice by hand and make sure it all lines up and the tools go back in nicely. Doing the job for the first time you do get a bit of a sphincter tightening moment that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 7 hours ago, Sword said: * very important correction - removed the TWO timing chain tensioners on the gearbox side - put them back in the same place! which ones of these ? Can you get to them from underneath ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw696 Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 6 minutes ago, Dubdubz said: which ones of these ? Can you get to them from underneath ? 26 and 37 and can all be done from underneath. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 7 hours ago, philw696 said: 26 and 37 and can all be done from underneath. and did you need to replace Tensioner o rings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 7 hours ago, philw696 said: 26 and 37 and can all be done from underneath. and did you need to replace Tensioner o rings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw696 Posted July 4, 2023 Report Share Posted July 4, 2023 Yes I did along with the aluminium washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sword Posted July 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2023 My tensioners seemed ok when I removed them so reused them however I did replace the aluminium crush washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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