Jump to content

Clutch gone?


Redboxxx

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Had a new issue this morning where I pulled out of a junction quickly, changed up to 2nd and the clutch just went to the floor and stuck there, still had enough travel for fe to change up to third, kept going a bit and turned round and went straight home. Was very hard to get into gear from neutral, now is not going in gear at all. I have searched a bit and I haven't come across anyone with exactly the same issue, so I thought I'd ask here to get some idea where to start in case anyone else had same thing on their car. It's a 98 2.5 manual car, decent car, not perfect but I do a lot of work on the car myself, still learning and I am up for pulling things apart.

Any tips would be really appreciated, thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had exactly this on my 107 a few weeks back, suddenly clutch pedal seemed to slip to floor and bite point remained right at the bottom until the next day when I couldn’t disengage the clutch at all. Turned out to be a failed lug on the clutch release bearing. Has the clutch been stiff recently? May have put extra strain on the bearing.

https://imgur.com/a/kvgVcPp

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you yes always had a heavyish clutch, I got the car about a year ago and don't drive it all that much, but more last couple of weeks whilst sun's been out, so it's not had a lot of hammer. It's stuck in first now, just tried it again and can't get it out of gear to roll it in the garage. Am thinking something hydraulic, since it's got worse, maybe by pressure having been released? Maybe a line or the slave cylinder popped? I've never pulled a clutch apart but will if needed, hope i don't have to mind!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm experiencing similar clutch related problems, in that the clutch goes in, but the pedal doesnt return all the way up.

You're right, the clutch connection to the pedal is hydraulic - pedal operates a master cylinder, which then operates a slave cylinder, which then actuates the clutch. it uses the same hydraulic fluid as the brakes.

certainly before doing anything as drastic as changing the clutch, i'd look to change the slave cylinder, and then the master cylinder. if either is faulty and not transferring hydraulic pressure you'll not be able to disengage the clutch. from memory the slave cylinder is about £80, you'd need to rebled the clutch afterwards.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Redboxxx said:

Thank you Paul, I will have a look there to begin with and report back. It's Mark in Devon here by the way, hope you're keeping well

I didn't know you picked up another 986? You still got the 928?

Even if it needs a clutch, you'll have a new one fitted in a couple of hours! :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

I didn't know you picked up another 986? You still got the 928?

Even if it needs a clutch, you'll have a new one fitted in a couple of hours! :)

 

The 928 went to Northern Ireland in the end. I miss it but after sinking a couple of grand in it I could see the financial abyss before me, so I decided 986 is the best option for me, younger, more usable and better to work on. This 986 is the one (money-pit!) in Leamington we spoke at length about last year with the Romainian connection, went cheap, I can't resist anything cheap! Done loads myself, machine polish, front suspension work, etc, usual things, brilliant to work on so far, last things to do are tuning fork and coffin are osr and both rear droplinks. Now this needs sorting but that's fine. Am actually just about to advertise this 2.5 and am about to collect a very well looked-after 3 owner S from a local guy here, forum member as well. Looks like I will have the 2.5 a little longer while I sort it out. The yellow S is still going strong btw!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, TROOPER88 said:

Get a touch, remove NSR wheel and have a look and feel around the clutch slave; one 13mm bolt holds it in place.

Got the car in the air last night and can just about see the clutch slave, they're quite tucked away! I can't see or feel any leaks, wonder if there's a bypass inside the slave? It's old so won't harm sticking a new one on. Looks tricky to do in situ, very easy if I remove the 'box...

I did find some obvious fluid leakage on an hydraulic pipe on the ns of the block, I think the one marked in red but I don't know if this is anything to do with the clutch, power steering was my first thought but seems sensible to consider as it's obviously not right.

3491EF38-B686-476C-BA01-65840B491AC1_1_105_c.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2022-04-28 at 8.44.34 PM.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the passenger rear wheel removed, I seem to recall access is not to bad for the 13mm bolt that secures the slave. When ever I do a clutch, I easily remove the slave with the box in situ.

Remove it and you will be able to test it's operation with it still connected to the hydraulic line by sliding it in and out with your fingers.

If you do want to change it, undo the hydraulic line with the servo bolted in place to allow more leverage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Quick update that the slave cylinder is at fault, fluid came out when I removed it from the gearbox (pipe still connected) as the seals inside must have perished, so a replacement is on it's way. I'll report how it goes. Thanks all for help thus far, cheers!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...