Photogirl

6 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Don't suppose you are able to bring it up to Gaydon on Sunday 8th Oct?

Had this evening not happened (just got back from 9 hours in A&E with my mum again) I would have strongly considered it. One day!

20 ALLOY WHEEL BOLTS + LOCKS FOR PORSCHE BOXSTER CAYMAN 986 987 981 718 NUT [KP] | eBay

On the car:

I have finally got my calipers done.

After hankering after a strong colour, I eventually went for Porsche Jet Black Metallic. I had them done at BCS.

Finally, I've got the new wheel bolts fitted:

Hi all,

I’d love some thoughts from those of you who may have experienced the double horn beep - approximately 20 seconds after locking the car with the key press. I have my suspicions as to what the cause might be but since I’m far from an expert I would appreciate any thoughts.

I've just got Bambi back from the workshop, having had quite a lot of work done. This work involved lifting and refitting the Zeintop, disconnecting various electrics etc.

I’m of the view that a cabin sensor has perhaps been disturbed based on the following tests I’ve just carried out (my fault code reader wasn’t helpful because it’s very basic):

·        There is a short double beep approximately 20 seconds after locking the car with the key fob. All compartments are properly closed (if they weren’t there would be a short single beep). The doors remain locked therefore I am not suspecting a problem with a door module

·        if I lock the car by using the key in the door instead, the double beep doesn’t happen. If I then unlock the car in the same way and open the door the alarm sounds - therefore I’ve concluded there is no fault with the alarm itself

·        if I lock the door using the key fob with the window down, and then stick my arm in and wave it around the alarm does not sound, hence my view it is a sensor fault
 

Given that the cabin sensors appear to be in a module right next to the roof centre latch I’m thinking something in that vicinity could have been bumped during the works. I’m wondering if it might be something as simple as a cable detaching itself.

In theory I could pop the module out to examine it, but since this fault wasn’t present prior to the works it might be best if I drop the car back to the workshop for an opinion. But before doing that I thought it would be useful to get views from others who may have had the exact same thing happen – I could be completely wrong in my assumptions.

Does the key return itself normally to the accessory position? Are you having any problems removing the key?

Years ago mine was doing that and as I recall it turned out to be the electrical portion of the ignition switch. If you're reasonably handy this can be a DIY job - it is a bit fiddly and getting the four screws out of the electrical module can be the hard part. As I recall there's quite a good tutorial over on the Pelican Parts site and I see one has already been linked here. 

I would get it sorted out promptly because it can abruptly fail with your key stuck in it.

When I had this problem it started with misfiring, then I started to lose power when trying to accelerate from a roundabout or similar, then the check engine light came on.

In my case it was the MAF, but it could equally be something else. We took the MAF out to test without it, which did confirm the issue.

Bambi arrived home this evening.

After various discussions about parts (thanks so much for the fantastic advice given to me in this thread) I was able to go ahead and get pretty much everything I wanted to do done, choosing my own parts as I went along.

Because of the things I did/didn't do, the engine didn't have to come out.

Aside from the MOT failure point I also had my advisories sorted out which were part of my suspension refresh. I also had the clutch done and a few other sundries.

The car was beautifully presented on collection and driving it home was a revelation. I'm fully aware that suspension work makes a difference, but I was blown away by the transformation. Bambi has always handled brilliantly but she has also been something of a raw ride. Driving back from the workshop was such a pleasure, like being in a new car. I almost didn't recognize it. 

I'm so pleased I got the clutch done. Previously it was very heavy leaving me with an extremely painful knee, to the point where I would avoid town driving where possible. The new clutch is so much easier on my joints.

My front discs and pads were very worn so they were done as well (£290 for parts and labour).

When I get a chance I'll post some pictures of the calipers in situ and the new wheel bolts. These are showing up my centre caps so I'm going to order some new ones this weekend. For completeness I think I should get a new handbag to compliment the paint job on the calipers.

Given that Bambi has cost me hardly anything in repairs over the years I don't begrudge her the outlay. A lot as it is when these things need doing, I feel it was money well spent. 

I'm very pleased with the service I got at Walkers. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them. 
 

Mine came separately. I got the number plate surrounds and badge together then about three weeks later the little black box. 

Give it a couple of weeks then chase it again. In the end I had to make a complaint to high up, and I got my items 2 days later.

49 minutes ago, Everywhen said:

Based on my own experience and on the comments on this thread I get the impression that the OPC’s see the Classic Register as a burden and something they’d rather not be bothered with just for the sale of a few parts to owners of old cars who are very unlikely to drop £150k on a new 911 GTS or take their 25yr old car for a service. 

I always get the impression they think I’m cluttering up the showroom and making the place look untidy when I collect any parts.

That has always been my experience (Mid Sussex Porsche). There's sometimes a barely veiled contempt for older low value Porsches). I recall one workshop manager saying that they will service/repair old Porsches but over several weeks, because they fit the work around their normal clientele. The notion is they are doing us a favour.

I understand that Caymans are now on the classic list (how ridiculous is that) so I'll take Ashleigh along and see how long it takes to get a result. If it's anything like the battle I had with Bambi, it could be a long time!

That's gorgeous Stuart, you're brilliant!   ❤️

That is so fantastic Stuart - I LOVE IT!!   🥰

7 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Will ceramic coat cope with heat?

Yes, apparently so. 

https://imgur.com/R0Ig5Ay

27 minutes ago, ATM said:

What colour?

You having Porsche lettering or something else?

You could have letters Bambi on the calipers - cute

I love the idea of having Bambi on the calipers - that's lovely!

I'm afraid I was rather boring in the end. I've had them done in high gloss Porsche Jet Black Metallic, with white Porsche decals. I'll probably ceramic coat them to help stop the brake dust from sticking.

To be honest I nearly had them done in gold  😆

Too far for me unfortunately. 

By way of update - Bambi should be finished next week. I came to an arrangement with the garage on the work and decided to go ahead with a few of the things on the list and get them out of the way. Like I said, other quotes from local indis were about the same.

I'll update when she's home. 

This did give me an opportunity to grab my brake calipers and send them off to be done. I'll take photos when I get a chance. 

15 minutes ago, Alan36 said:

Can you tell me where that valve is?

Top of the engine bay, by the manifold. Don't confuse it with a similar sounding thing in the front wheel arch. 

Part of diagnosing a faulty PVS is to get somebody to start the car while you stare at the exhaust - a very small, very brief, almost unnoticeable puff of black smoke is what you're looking for. You have to really look for it. A faulty PVS almost always causes hot start issues.

On 6/11/2023 at 12:06 PM, edc said:

That's what I've posted earlier. 

Hot start issue can be any number of things. With mine it was the purge valve solenoid. Several indis were barking up the wrong tree (at great cost to myself) then luckily I met the right technician and got it sorted.

I had that for years and then developed a long standing and very elusive hot start problem. This was eventually diagnosed as a faulty purge valve solenoid. Replacing it (not expensive as I recall) also solved the bouncy needle.

On 7/22/2023 at 10:21 PM, ½cwt said:

The final one on caliper refurb, I had mine done a BCS in Nottingham earlier this year, I supplied the new nipples and seals (about £35) but needed 3 new pistons due to pitting, complete strip paint and test £585 +VAT incl delivery.  I also fitted new caliper bolts which were about £50 too.  With the car already up on stands to remove and refit just the caliper (so 2 operations well under an hour including reconnecting the caliper lines and setting the torque wrench. 

Very helpful - thank you. I can confirm that my calipers are due back from BCS on Monday! 

..... I can't believe I've finally done it, after mulling over the colour for literally years. I'll photograph them before I drop them back at the workshop.

18 hours ago, Mattman42 said:

you can get one that make the boxster look like a cayman - @Photogirl is the expert on those tops

You'd have to be very lucky to find one - the 986 Zeintops ceased production in late 2009, as did the small handful of 987 versions they made. There is apparently a company selling a knockoff kit version, called Z-Art (I think via Design 911). But whether they too are still made I've no idea. Either way, it's a very expensive option.

18 hours ago, ½cwt said:

The final one on caliper refurb, I had mine done a BCS in Nottingham earlier this year, I supplied the new nipples and seals (about £35) but needed 3 new pistons due to pitting, complete strip paint and test £585 +VAT incl delivery.  I also fitted new caliper bolts which were about £50 too.  With the car already up on stands to remove and refit just the caliper (so 2 operations well under an hour including reconnecting the caliper lines and setting the torque wrench. 

I've been looking at the BCS site - I think that's the company my local indis use. 

22 hours ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Thank you. Have added some commentary below in blue - click the expand button.

This is IMO - and it is just that.

It's based on my own experiences of running two high (120k+ mile) 986s as semi-dailys since 2016, and having to do most, if not all the items on your shopping list at some point.

 

 

Thank you very much indeed for that excellent summary @K.I.T.T. - great information and helpful for any novices reading this thread.

Before addressing each point, I just want to say that the workshop has not in any way pressured me to do anything other than the essentials (that would be the MOT failure points). They did a full inspection on the car and noted a series of things I was already aware of. A couple of those things I do consider need doing. I asked for quotes on all of the things so that I could prepare for when they would get done or perhaps do one or two of them pre-emptively. Having phoned around other local independents it seems the prices are broadly similar throughout my region.

Since then, the workshop has reduced the prices on some of the things I raised because there were alternative parts or suppliers which had better pricing:

Front Shock Absorbers, Top Mounts, Bump stops and associated fittings - The mounts/bump stops are worn and the shock absorbers have corrosion on the shaft. That corrosion is not serious and they do not need changing at the moment, but probably will within the next couple of years. I was told that replacing the other parts (which are in fact quite corroded) would not be worth doing because the corroded shafts on the shocks would wear those parts fairly quickly. I was therefore advised to do these things together at some point in the near future, but does not need to be immediate

Replace Front Anti Roll Bar Links £336 inc VAT Pair (£240 inc VAT if done with Front Shock Absorbers ). Replace Rear Anti Roll Bar , bushes and links £659 inc VAT - these items are quite worn and do need doing. Thank you for the pointer about a preowned part in good condition

Replace PAS pipes on steering rack and hydraulic lines from joiner half way down the car (MOT issue). £1868 inc VAT - the pipes on the steering rack are quite corroded, the workshop quoted for new hydraulic lines as well because they are problematic - however they did say exactly what you said - can just be clipped. I'm wondering how long clipping them lasts?

Replace Coffin Arms (x3) £950 inc VAT - the price has been dropped to £720. I had two coffin arms replaced on the Cayman a couple of years back which cost about £600 – this was the same as other indis were quoting. I feel these need doing and have been on my list for a while

Additional cost to replace 6 ignition coils £400 inc VAT - this is been re-quoted at £200 using Beru parts. These do need doing as they are cracked

Remove engine to gain access , replace front sections of rear brake lines, replace rear sections of rear brake lines, replace hoses as required , refit and bleed system £2100 inc VAT - this was one of the MOT failures. I got a quote from another well-regarded local indi last year to just do the front to back brake pipes (not including the rears) and they quoted just under £1180. I'll ask about the Kunifer pipes

Cost to replace water pump £382 inc VAT - agree with your points. I asked for the quote more out of curiosity and partly because I had been encouraged in another thread to pre-emptively replace the water pump, but I’m not in a rush

With Engine removed additional cost to replace clutch £576 inc VAT - (has not failed, purely pre-emptive quote) - quotes I’ve had in the past to replace the clutch have been around 1K so I felt this might be an opportunity to get it done. The workshop were clear that the clutch probably has a lot of life left in it however I had complained of it being very heavy and hurting my knee, which is why I’m wondering about it. It does drive me mad these days even in light traffic. That said, it could be just as heavy after replacing it so I’m currently undecided on this one

With Engine removed additional cost to replace starter motor £360 - I asked for this quote more out of curiosity and to prepare if there was a problem. I say that because it’s been a bit noisy (albeit intermittent). The workshop felt it was fine and the noise was probably just because I haven’t been regularly driving the car. I'm not planning on doing it

With brake lines removed send calipers away for refurbishment, replace link pipes and fittings as required £1100 inc VAT set of 4 - This is purely vanity and I was curious about what the cost would be for a top notch job so asked for a quote. This is for the place they tend to use but they said they could take them off and send them to any place of my choice. Either way, it won’t be on this year’s list

11 minutes ago, edc said:

Personally if you've had nothing done apart from replacing failed items I'd start thinking and budgeting for doing some preventative maintenance. Some will see this as a waste of money but unless you want your fix to be preceded by a trailer then for the hassle it's worth it. There are lots of bits that deteriorate with use over time and you may want to batch some together. Some stuff stops you from going other stuff soldiers on butt really detracts from the use of the car:

Cooling system: rads, water pump, cap, expansion tank, all go in time. This stuff generally isn't given much if any attention at service unless there is an obvious problem.

Brakes: corroded hard lines, bulging flexis, corroded discs. Easy to inspect and checked at MOT. 

Alternator: normally get some sort of heads up it's failing.

Fuel pump: normally just goes.

Suspension: rarely fails leaving you stranded, unless a corroded spring. But will be tired and baggy. Perfectly ok if you pootle around but not so good nearer the limits. Normally still driveable even with knocks and clunks. If you're going to do it I think it's worth going the whole hog or doing all arms/bushes as one phase and springs/dampers the next or vice versa probably slightl cheaper on labour. 

Clutch: normally get some feel that it's going to go. 

 

 

Agree, and have budgeted. I've just had a very thorough inspection done and only two items are 'must be done now' (as in MOT failure - brake lines, PAS lines) and a few amber items which will need doing soon but not urgent. Other bits I'm considering is water pump and clutch (not overly worn apparently but feeling very heavy). Otherwise all appears good.