Photogirl

8 hours ago, Paul P said:

Good call to get peace of mind for sure.

All done. The dealer was very nice - they removed 500ml of oil to test where they were at, and then added back 300ml. The level is now to one full block below max. Interesting that 200ml is the difference between full above max and one block under (I thought it might be a bit more). 

Yes, I always assumed they measured what came out and put in the same, rather than the 'dry capacity' which as you say is 8.5 litres. 

As today's measurements were cold, I'll re-measure at the right temperature next time I drive. From what I can recall the electronic gauge always reads a little lower when the car is warmed up.

On the subject of oil level readings:  After having my 986 serviced at my local indi a couple of weeks ago I checked the oil level (at the correct warm temperature) and it was where I like it to be on the electronic gauge, a little below the max mark. Today I was showing the Cayman owner how my gauge differs from his - but once illuminated mine read completely full (to the notch above 'max'). Odd, given that it was cold. So I pulled out the dipstick, cleaned it, reinserted and took a reading which showed the oil level well above maximum. I always do this in my garage which is level. Hard to understand why they would have over-filled it, so I'm a bit baffled (and the Cayman owner is even more baffled than he was yesterday). At some point fairly soon I will be going to get a suspension ball joint seen to so I'll ask them for an opinion on the oil.

I'm now wondering how reliable the gauges and dipsticks are, but will retest both over the coming days.

17 hours ago, Paul P said:

 

Oil level - the gauge is very sensitive to being level - even a slight slope can cause it to read a section high or low - I now always use the same place to check mine. 

 

He's now tried three level surfaces the the gauge is still fully illuminated to above the max. He called the dealer this morning who assured him they know these cars inside out and it hadn't been over-filled, but as a precaution/peace of mind he's going to drop the car in to have a small amount taken out. 

This one hasn't got a dipstick so I think he should take it back to the dealer and let them take some oil out. 

I remember when I first bought my 986 - it was putting out huge puffs of white smoke on a cold start, wafting all the way up the road. I looked at the oil and the gauge read above the top mark even when cold, so I went to my local indi and had an oil change done after which the level then sat where it should - no more smoke on startup. That said, this Cayman doesn't smoke at all.

Yes, the oil level reading was taken on a level surface. I'll suggest he tries another location, just to see if there is a difference. If it's still lit up to the very top of the scale then I have to wonder if it's too full.

I also find the coolant level quite hard to read on the Cayman. The little window on my car is very handy. 

Yep, it definitely looks like preparation product.

On the subject of oils, I've just taken an oil level reading for him and the gauge is showing fully illuminated in its entirety including and above the max point. I'm wondering if it's been over-filled. On my 986 I do of course have a dipstick as well as an electronic readout (which is more detailed than the one on this Cayman). 

2 minutes ago, BrianJ said:

Looks like tar spots thrown up from the road to me. Are they hard but come off with a gentle polish or by using one of the tar removal products? Endemic road rash is a problem in this area.

Clear droplets but with some particles of dirt in them - and I now think I know what it is, but am in the process of mouth rinsing with white vinegar  😆

My suspicion is that EVO Chris' pointer was correct. Upon looking at the arch rims, there are some similar looking droplets there too. Funny how there was such an accumulation by the vents rather than along the side of the car, but it does appear that tyre dressing is the likely cause (they are rather slick looking I must say). I've suggested that the owner clean off all the droplets and shampoo off the tyre dressing for now, and see if the residue comes back. 

It's funny how the smallest thing can throw you. 

Thank you all very much for the responses - hugely appreciated.

bally 4563 - I'll check for leaks

paul P - it's both sides equally. I did wipe one of them a couple of days ago but it's come back. It's definitely not water, it's beady and sticky and doesn't evaporate. I'll go and give it a lick and do the taste test 😝

EVO Chris - I hadn't even thought of that!  I'd better lick the tyres as well so I can compare with the taste of the vent droplets

I'll test and report back. 

Hi all. I've done a Google search on this and have drawn a blank so any thoughts would be appreciated.

This concerns a 2012 Cayman 2.9 987 Gen 2 with 67,000 miles. The new owner took possession of it a week ago from a local and well regarded Porsche independent dealership.

Today I noticed a lot of tiny droplets on the paintwork just inside and at the bottom of the side vents. Not water, it looks like oil. 

Any thoughts as to what it might be? He hasn't had the car long enough to monitor oil consumption.

It is indeed a hard decision. The prospective owner has budgeted for a clutch, flywheel, and some sundries - but when the car has other possible issues it then becomes much less attractive. It would be good to find a Gen 2 which has already had a replacement clutch. I think the new owner might consider PDK albeit with a further uplift in price, as you say. 

Yep, there won't be much haggle room with a dealer on one of these, if any. The car was probably traded in for something newer and was then passed onward. The last owner is in Cheshire and the car has ended up down south.

21 minutes ago, Lennym1984 said:

If I was a small independent dealer, I don't think I'd bother selling old Porsches. I just cannot imagine that the profit margins are sufficient to make the hassle of PPIs and any remedial work worthwhile. I doubt people would do the same for a 15 year old BMW or a 10 year old Audi and so I think I'd just rather shift a few more of those. Most 15 year old cars will have some flaws and trying to rectify them all probably doesn't make much economic sense (if you are trying to turn a profit).

I kind of agree with the dealer here. If the clutch is within tolerance (ie. isn't actually knackered) then why should they replace it? I think I'd rather just fix what actually needed fixing (ie. could be seen as a fault rather than expected wear and tear) and then if need be sell it to somebody else. The market is pretty hot at the moment and so I doubt they will have too much trouble moving it on.

@Photogirl I do not mean this in a disrespectful way to you and I think it makes sense to do the "due diligence" on a used purchase - Just trying to show it from the dealers perspective. For me (unless it was something expensive) I'd rather buy a 15 year old car privately. An independent dealer warranty on a 15 year old car will be next to worthless and unlike a private seller, they need to make a profit (ie. sell it for a decent margin more than they bought it). This means you a basically paying at or above market price for a car which somebody else was prepared to let go "cheaply"

All excellent points and I can completely see it from the dealer's perspective - he can also see my side and we are on very good terms.

However if there are issues and there is no movement on price then the risk factor to me as the buyer is the deal breaker. I don't expect them to renew parts which they feel are within tolerance, as you allude that would shrink their profit margins. But I won't buy a car with a visibly worn clutch (at that price) and 6-10 hours of labour to replace just the £20 rear main seal makes no sense to me. As has been mentioned I could consider supplying the clutch and flywheel myself but given the other advisories on this car I'm reluctant to do so.

As you say I'm sure they will sell it easily, the market is indeed grabby at the moment (and prices are high) with not much difference on the private market, interestingly.

Agree with all points. I've thought about coming to an arrangement regarding parts but it may be more hassle than it's worth. My position this morning is to resume searching and in fact I'm now going to take things up a notch and consider Gen 2 Caymans as some of the Gen 1 issues are removed. 

The seller has now come back and remarked that the leak on the steering rack is likely to be other fluids arising from changing the coolant pipes, however Nick did feel this was oil.

They have said they will replace the RMS and inspect the clutch and flywheel to see if the wear is within tolerance - surely a complete waste of 6-10 hours of labour just to change a £20 seal, when the car appears to be on it's original and likely worn clutch and flywheel. On that basis a replacement RMS would not make the car any more attractive to me.

I'm also concerned there may be something going on with the gearbox - whilst I expect a little stiffness in first and second when cold, this struck me as inordinately stiff. Could be clutch though.

I've just had a good chat with Nick about this Cayman, he inspected it this morning. I appreciate there will be some wear and tear on a 2008 car but there are some things which concern me:

-   RMS is drippy rather than merely misting, so needs attention

-   steering rack oil leak (the car had a replacement rack a few years ago and this is a known fault in the 987.1)

-   clutch vibration in first and reverse which could indicate worn clutch, or flywheel (or just worn engine mounts). My view is the clutch based on my own earlier observations

-   small amount of gearbox noise, more than is usual in 1st and reverse, it should not be there. Could be flywheel or gearbox problem

I've referred this to the seller (who has already replaced the aircon rads, coolant pipes, battery and exhaust clamps) who will have a chat with his mechanic. I wouldn't want the car with all those faults but if they replaced the clutch, flywheel and RMS then the rest might become less of a worry. 

On 6/18/2021 at 4:02 PM, Mattman42 said:

 

@faithlessworld has just used him so can provide more detail if needed

I've had a nice chat with this forum member and I'm now in touch with Nick Giles for an inspection next week.

I have a hypersensitive bottom, ears, feet and nose - so it will be interesting to see if the things I've noticed are in any way significant, or perhaps even non-issues. It's many years since I bought/sourced a car and having IMS/RMS/bore scoring hanging over it is stress-inducing. On this model IMS and bore scoring are less of a risk, but there's still some risk. And hard to diagnose without obvious symptoms. I've had some technicians firmly advising I get any 987 bore scoped, and others saying it's not worth it and the results can be hard to interpret. I had a good listen, all sounded fine. Puff of white smoke on startup like many of them (probably nothing, maybe AOS) which vanished quickly.

I read through all of the paperwork and there was an advisory in 2016 of 'slight weep from rear mail seal'. I know this is common and often not an issue, but I want it checking. There was nothing in the paperwork to indicate it's had a new clutch in which case the RMS would have logically been replaced. 

Just had a test drive. Only observation was gearbox stiffer than expected when cold (more so than mine) and clutch biting quite high. Otherwise a really nice drive. 

I messaged Nick Giles yesterday and I'm hoping he'll reply on Monday. I have next week to get an inspector in, as the dealer will need me to commit by Friday. It does come with a warranty, though it won't include clutch/RMS. 

Good to know, thank you. I'll get in touch with Nick. 

Ah yes, I know Carrera Performance well (I've got a service there next week in fact) and would have taken it there - but the seller won't allow the car offsite (understandably) so I'm trying to find a mobile Porsche inspector. I had a chat with Peter Morgan earlier today who is very well regarded, but I'm out of his catchment.

Looking around the forum Nick Giles has been mentioned.

Hi all,

I hope it’s OK to use the ‘C’ word here – after all it’s just a Boxster with a lid on.

I’m currently tasked with finding a 987.1 Cayman (for somebody else) and have just started looking at possible contenders. Whenever I’ve purchased a used car I’ve always had an inspection done and I feel a specialist Porsche inspection is well advised. However given that the cars I’m looking at are being sold at establishments they don’t tend to allow a vehicle offsite.

I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good mobile Porsche pre-purchase inspection expert who covers the Sussex Surrey border. I looked at a car this morning (I’m returning to test drive it tomorrow) which is at Farnham, about 15 minutes south-west of Guildford. It’s a 2008 987.1 with 62k on the clock, FSH main dealer and indi.

It looks nice enough (obviously nowhere near as nice as my Boxster!  😹). I had a thorough trawl through all of the paperwork. The things I noted were that there was no evidence that the drive belt had been replaced at around 48K and at its 2016 service there was an advisory on small leak from the RMS. Regarding that, I would want to see if the leek was still small - as I’ll have this car a lot of the time there’s no way I want even one drop of oil on my driveway. The new owner feels he can't stretch to a Gen 2. 

Started it up, no obvious ticking or knocking sounds. Puff of white smoke which was short-lived. 

The only other observation is that the wheels (19”) showed some areas of corrosion which looked quite deep in one or two areas. 

The dealer has fitted new aircon rads and a new battery.

Any pointers regarding getting an onsite inspection in my region would be very welcome.

Many thanks in advance.