Freddie

45 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

I saw a mint one pop up near me for £100, but took too long to decide and it went, ended getting a slightly rougher one from a house clearance, completely untested for £40ish.  I was so pleased when it fired up!  Just a couple of months ago they were averaging about £150 on ebay. If I see anything I'll let you know.

Thanks mate, everything is mega bucks at the moment, I seem to have missed the boat!

10 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

I had a look on Facebook for you but nothing i'm afraid.  Have you tried the specialist breakers like steve strange, 9apart etc?

Thanks bud, I appreciate it. Steve strange hasn’t got anything at the moment, there’s a couple actually on eBay in Germany but crazy money at  nearly 300 posted, and a shady character selling everything for 400, just seems greedy to me.
 

I’ll keep looking, must be something somewhere for reasonable money 🤞

Not sure if I can post this here but I am trying to find a CDR-22 for reasonable money, anybody got anything lying about doin' nowt?

Thanks all 

To @Kumar if you have a CDR-22 in your 986, I am looking to buy one let me know if you are looking to sell yours to fund a new bluetooth unit.

Looks like excellent stuff, thanks for sharing 

Pioneer head unit listed on ebay this evening, sold in 5 mins, £150, pleased with that!

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Sounds like a good time to contact Steve Strange at Douglas Valley Breakers (find them on eBay) and see if he can put a package of parts together for you. 

Regarding the changer, it plugs in and IIRC (I took mine out some time ago now), the auto changer is a different 'source' to the radio and the in-built CD. 

Cheers mate, just ordered a cage/button assembly from them

21 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

No Sir, the panel that holds the buttons is all one piece as per my post above.

On the plug with the yellow/green/blue, one is power, one is speakers and one is CD changer.

Whether it will work or not is dependent on whether matey boy chopped into any wiring that I do not know about.

The only good news is that the relocation panel and tray can sell for good money as there are a lot of clowns out there who like doing the same thing.

Thanks Paul,

Had a good look under the dash and can see the new speaker wiring leading up to the dash top, can't see any other signs of butchery. 

Update - have found a new cage and buttons for my car from Douglas Valley, used them a few times, always very good. My car seems to have the sticky sh@yte plastics here and there so a good time to get rid of that on that panel.

On the look out for a cdr22 now, definitely going back to OEM.

Here's the rat's nest removed, now to clean and tidy up for eBay!

28 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Looking at your pic:

 

Remove the yellow/green/blue block from the red connector. The red connector and anything attached to it, throw in the bin.

The cable tied black wire is a wire/receiver, prob DAB - bin it.

The white cable is the aftermarket speakers.

 

The absolute imbecile who fitted the aftermarket unit has also destroyed the whole mounting cage. It is common and I seem to spend my life putting them back to standard after idiots play about with them. They physically cut the plastic to make the Halfords units fit.

To do it properly, you will then relocate the heater unit to where it should be and you'll need new storage bins for the lower section as the imbecile fitted the kit that includes different shaped bins.

So you will need the whole cage inc vents etc; it is not a difficult job and you will find them on Ebay and yes, a CDR22 is what you need with the code.

I have honestly not purchased 986's in the past just because of the head unit fitted.

Hi Paul,

Thanks mate, yep, beggers belief! Luckily I have a the bins needed and also an OEM cd rack. I see Steve Strange has cages, the button side panels have also got hacksaw gouges in them from when the cage was clearly hacksawed apart! So I'll need new ones as well. 

Do you know if I can get away without buying a changer for now?

11 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

Yes, it is quite the mess. Easy to sort if you know what you are doing and can look properly. A lot harder from a few pics. 

It does look a lot less bodged than others I've seen, i would start by taking out all the non standard stuff. 

If you were closer I would've been happy to look, but Devon to Eastbourne is a few hours. 

Thanks bud, yep, great road trip, but not cheap to do the miles!

I think there's supposed to be a brown rectangular plug for speakers, which is gone and been replaced by the new white speaker wire.

Looking at costs, a CDR22, plus an amp and cd changer will probably end up being £400 give or take, whereas the Continental unit is £150 all in, assuming it doesn't need an amp? I do want originality but I can't really justify the cost. A bummer 'cos when I plugged in the CDR23 that I bought by mistake, it looked ace when it came on showing PORSCHE on the display. My car is MY2000 so hasn't any optical wiring so CDR23 no good to me.

Is it safe to assume that a CDR22 can work OK without the changer? 

Thanks, always helps to hear other’s knowledge! I don’t know about the code thing, bummer if that’s the case. 

I’ve also been looking at the continental option, but I prefer it to be Oem if poss.

Hi guys,

I am in the process of stripping out the 'upgrade' double-din head unit so I can put a cdr32 and a changer in the car. It actually was specced with an MDR32 from new!

Having taken everything out I want to understand what's going on with the wiring. The PO that 'upgraded' the head unit also said that the dash speakers had been changed. Note the white speaker wiring. 

The amp is also gone, presumably the stupid pioneer unit had all that in, so I will need to get one of those as well.

I have a cdr23 knocking around that I plugged in out of curiosity and it lit up and worked, no sound though due to the optical outputs not present on my car.

Can anyone tell me which bit of wire does what, please? Thanks in advance!

On 10/16/2022 at 12:25 PM, letsmile said:

Well that's what I thought, but with the very small split I have right on the edge, I thought well worth giving it a go - ordered a tube of the stuff this morning to give it a go - if it lives up to the reviews, it could be well worth it! If I had damage anywhere other than the edge then I'd probably look at replacement, but let's see how it plays out - could be a low cost solution 🤞

I might do same, let us know how you get on

On 10/7/2022 at 3:28 PM, ½cwt said:

Mine cracked in the bottom left corner and I covered it from inside with some clear heavy duty self-adhesive tape for 3 to 4 months to prevent water getting in, before I got a new one stitched in by a specialist hood trimmer.

Thanks bud, there is a guy not far from us that can do it, old skool trimmer called Guy Broom, apparently is very good. The rest of the hood is decent, otherwise I'd stick one on with a glass screen to avoid the 'Boxster chop'

I've seen repairs using something like that, looked pretty strong from what I can remember.

Thank you all, very helpful info, the plastic's in reasonable condition, tiny split appearing on one side so will need a new one in next year or two

Hi all,

My plastic rear screen has a distinct white band across it where it folds, had the car 6 months and been like it since I bought it, I have had Renovo about 20 years ago for an Alfa Spider window, just wondering what anyone has had good results with. The area is not actually creased, just milky white, I assume there are microscopic splits or something going on in the structure of the plastic material, I thought about Owatrol that 'feeds' plastics, I use it on the black plastics of my car. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

On 9/21/2022 at 3:59 PM, GmanB said:

I always thought the groaning like they were dying sound was the standard sound for these hoods. Greasing the runners and joints should make it run a bit smoother. I never worried about it, as mine sounded the same as a few courtesy cars I've had. I think the time to worry is if it makes clonking/banging noises. 

My main reason to worry was that I had a 2.5 with a really nice roof until quite recently, it operated fast and smooth, like it had been renewed recently, so it made my 3.2 sound like it was dying, in comparison. I have been recording it in operation everytime I've used it in the past week or so and it's sounded much better, typically! I have lubed ir recently so who knows, maybe it's finally reached the parts other lubes can't reach!

24 minutes ago, map said:

Installed one of these. There’s an adapter cable supplied with the headunit that converts the DIN power and speaker blocks to a single connector at the headunit.

Assuming whoever installed it used this your factory loom and black/brown DIN blocks should be intact.  You will need to provide this adapter cable if you opt to sell the DA130.

The Continental should just plug into the black and brown DiN loom blocks but it would be worth checking that the pin mapping between the loom and Continental unit. 

Thanks a million, I will take a look at this tomorrow, this info helps me a lot, thanks so much.

21 minutes ago, 999mch said:

Ok this is unlikley to be plug and play as the speakers appear to be on an RCA connection but the continental will not be. it will depend on whether the wiring was done with proper harness adaptors or made up bespoke. i would pull out the stereo and take some photos of the connections and all the wiring

Ta bud, I will do, I'm pretty tempted to just go back to stock anyway, so will need the lot - amp, head unit and changer, getting pricey tho🙈

13 hours ago, 999mch said:

If you have no amp what stereo do you currently have and does it work? It should be pretty much plug and play if that all works at the moment 

Hi mate,

It's this one, with the reversing camera 

SPH-DA130DAB

All works perfectly, hopefully can just swap out for the continental, or I'd quite like to go back to stock ICE. Myn car came with the minidisc head unit from the factory, sadly now long gone.

Sorry to hijack the thread, does anyone know if a MY2000 will accept the Continental unit without issues, i/.e. is it plug and play?

My car's amp had also been removed when 'upgraded'.

Thanks

18 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Have the runners and joints been lubricated recently?  Use aerosol lithium grease like on door and boot hinges.

Thanks, Yep, I dabbed in some grease a few weeks back, the red stuff that's OK on plastics/rubber, should be OK shouldn't it? I thought this best due to the plastic parts it comes into contact with. I have some spray grease somewhere.