Steve Laming
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Posts posted by Steve Laming
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2 hours ago, TROOPER88 said:
17K or pick up a second hand engine for £1500.
When they do yours Steve, ask them for the IMSB back and give us your opinion.
Good luck with the work
You know better than me. Can you get a 996 engine for £1500 ? If you can, do you put it straight in the car or strip it and check the cam chain, cam tensioners, IMS, bores etc. Whats the hours for dropping and installing the two motors?
I know what your saying, but you do your own work, so in effect can factor out the labour aspect (if it's your car).
Yes, I will ask them for the old IMS bearing and have a fiddle with it !
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Mine's booked for early May to have the clutch & IMS bearing changed.
I have thought long and hard about this (whether to just change the clutch) and decided that as it's apart, might as well get it done. My car has done about 93k miles and the clutch is VERY heavy. You get used to it, but when jumping back in the Cayman, my foot nearly goes through the floor, as muscle memory from the 986 kicks in ! LOL.
Mine is a 2001 model and the engine number would suggest the early dual row bearing is installed.
Speaking to an Indy yesterday, they said they had an early 996 (dual row bearing) in for repair. The bearing had gone taking a couple of cylinders with it. £17k estimate to repair !
I've had mine four years now and only average 2500 to 4500 per year. Last year (between MOT's) 693 miles ! Covid 19 put paid to getting it out of the garage.
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986 MOT this morning. Straight pass and no advisories.
Did the 987c front discs and pads on Saturday (well a mate did, on his lift). Only one of the old brake pads had the anti rattle plate on the back! Why refit just the one? Unless they were unaware they were actually there in the first place. The (old) pads didnt have much wear, so had recently been replaced and the anti rattle plate was not stuck to the back of the pad (like it should be) so assume last time was just a straight pad swop.
Plus, most of the wheel bolts were starting to fall apart. Back on the phone to Design911. They arrive tomorrow.
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I got my 986 specifically for trackdays.
I have done approx 4 to 6 trackdays each year since I got it (4 years ago). This includes 2 trips to Spa.
Only issues I have had was at Goodwood and Castle Combe. Both times the engine coughed through a left hander. I put this down to a low level of fuel in the petrol tank, as the car had performed fine all day until below the 1/4 mark on the fuel gauge.
Did a trackday at Snetterton in the 987 Cayman last December and although wet and slippery, the car performed without fault, except the brakes !
I have heard that racers tend to fit a better suited sump and if I turned my car into a track only toy, then I may consider this.
Touch wood, fingers crossed both cars seem fine.
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On my 986, I bought some wire mesh from B&Q (I think). Galvanised, so wont rust.
I cut it to size, bent it (slightly ) in half and inserted it between the grills. Then with long nose pliers, pulled it back into position.
Then secured with lockwire.
Not the neatest job in the world, but stops stuff getting to the rads (I don't have AC).
On the 987 Cayman I was going to do the same except the fog lamps get in the way !
So used the Zunsport items.
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On 3/19/2021 at 8:23 PM, Stuart21UK said:
a while ago someone wise on her said about 2nd hand Cayenne gen 1's...
buy the Turbo instead of the S (or GTS) as comparably the mpg was 18, 19 or 20 (or thereabouts)
so for the mildly worse 18 mpg you'd have more fun for very little mpg difference (and 2nd hand they tank in price too so can be almost as cheap to buy)
if I could live with low teens mpg in 2 cars I'd have a Macan GTS instead of the diesel Cayenne
My 2004 Cayenne S does 16mpg average. On a run, maybe 20 ish. Don't know really as I have not reset the computer for a longer trip.
Dean at Eporsch had a Cayenne Turbo (1st Gen) I think his wife used it mainly for school runs, shopping etc. He said his average was 12mpg !
He now has a Cayenne diesel.
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56 minutes ago, Dazzevans said:
Is it necessary to turn the ignition to position one? 101 projects doesn’t mention this, nor does the Pelican website or the manual.
I'm sure I've seen it on this forum !
I've just had a quick Google. A French Youtube clip says, "If the car is locked when the battery goes flat, then use the key to open the door and place key in ignition and turn to position 1, if not the alarm MAY sound"
My car was unlocked when the battery went flat, so I probably didnt need to do this, as he also says that "Key in the ignition may throw up some fault codes" ! ?
Anyway, all sorted now.
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Battery Update.
Fitted the new one. Despite turning the key to position 1, when I removed the negative terminal from the battery, the alarm sounded. Bloody hell, thats loud !
In went the new one, half expecting the alarm to go off again (it didnt), frunk light came on, so all good.
Tested the old battery with a volt meter, 5 volts, but would take a charge from both the CTek chargers I have, so I will check tomorrow to see if the battery held it's 12.5v overnight.
Whilst the bonnet was up. I fitted my posh new struts to stop the bonnet hitting my head in the slightest of breezes.
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Went to start it today, flat battery ☹️. It's been in the garage for about three months and I think I've only started it once this year ! It's been hooked up to a CTek charger. Always checked the charge status on the unit when I go into the garage, and it showed nothing untoward.
Same this time, except the window didnt drop and the frunk didnt pop. Then noticed no dash lights.
Turned off the CTek and re-set with deep conditioning mode whilst I popped upstairs to check the history. New battery (Bosch) purchased in 2012, so I suppose it's done very well.
Anyway, popped down to local motor factors (Unity in Byfleet) and picked up another Bosch for £117 with a 5 year warranty.
Just need to try and push the bugger out the garage to access the bonnet pin thing in the passenger footwell now.
That can wait for another sunny day.
P.S. The car has always been on a CTek everytime I put it in the garage since I've owned it (4 years).
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Yesterday I bought a big brother for the Boxster in the shape of a Cayenne 4.5 S. Wish me luck. Fuel consumption is epic !
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Quick oil change and general check over at eporsch, ready for Spa trackday in November.
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2 hours ago, r1flyguy said:
Come join our run to the Nürburgring on the 16th to 18th
Hi @r1flyguy sorry, I'm not a fan of that circuit. Going to Spa in November, though.
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Car booked in for a re-map. Interestingly, Dean at eporch said that it had already had a map in it !!
His guys were confident that there was still a performance gain to be had, and if I was not happy with the outcome, they would re-install my old map and refund the cost.
Couldnt really drive it much today, as I had to go to work after they had done the map. But, the car does feel a bit livelier off the bottom of the throttle opening, so guessing the torque increase comes in much lower down the rev range.
Time will tell, but positive at the moment. A forthcoming track day at Thruxton will give me some answers.
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10 minutes ago, Glosrich said:
Depends if he's a cash buyer or looking for finance.
They will do a better deal if he takes their finance, but its more expensive than the cheapest personal loans.
Pre-reg or low mileage demo might be a good way to go:
I havnt looked at the spec or options, but these start at a shade under £47k when ordered new.
Porsche Brooklands have a few "Demo" cars up for grabs, all well spec'd but, still way over "starting list price". So, still paying for all the options when second hand.
Only real benefit is getting one much quicker than ordering fresh front the factory.
My Brother was looking at a 300 mile one, an S on a 19 plate. Going on to the Porsche configurator and speccing it up as the one for sale, can out nearly the same money (within a few hundred pounds.
Sure most OPC's will do a deal on the sticker price though.
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Just collected from Dean at eporsch.
12k Service.
Rear Anti Roll Bar Bushes x2
Rear Tuning Forks x2
Front Drop Link
Drives much quieter now.
Needs the front attending to in the near future.
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Celebrated my one year ownership of the 986, by leaving it tucked up in the garage and going to work !
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Booked in to ePorsch in a couple of weeks for new front discs & pads. Plus an upgrade on brake fluid to help with the track days !
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MOT today, no problems. However, the to do list has got a bit longer as one of the rear tyres is wearing its inside edge.
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Booked car into GT-One for a 12k service and general check over.
Clutch and IMS
in 986
Posted
Yes, I agree the £17k rebuild bill is quite high. I think Hartech do it for upwards of £2.5k. BUT this would be on a perfectly working engine, so any broken/worn components would then have to be replaced, as you said, escalating the cost.
I don't know what the specialists' customer has gone for. He might have elected for a new block from Porsche plus all the stuff needed to rebuild. I would assume the cost to include VAT as well.
Most of the stuff I have read suggests a 996 will be in the region of £8k to £12k to repair/rebuild, so add a bit of VAT on top and your not too far away from £17k.
When you then consider the car is worth (before it went bang) £15k ? It's a massive headache to have.
Just to clarify, this was just a phone conversion with this specialist, my car is being done by another Porsche specialist.