Chris D

Bought a new ball joint splitter for the job. Couldn't get it on if I needed to though. I used the fork and a lump hammer in the end. As above, it wasn't getting re-fitted. 

It's all a faff but it's not hard so as long as you can afford to take your time you'll save a fortune in labour. 

Ah, thanks for correcting me. I've not torqued mine yet. Still needs alignment. I knew it was 1xx something. I was confident on the 160. They're done already.

I've just done this on my 2005 987.1 S.

Rears only atm. Took my time, over a few weekends / evenings in my home garage.

I replaced the coffin arms, tuning forks, tie rods and drop links. I also changed the ARB bushes. Spyder performance.

I fitted new bolts. I got the bolt kit from Spyder too although the tuning fork bolts can be re-used or get them from an OPC (£9 each for the chassis bolt).

Tuning fork M14 bolts - 160 Nm. Everything else was either 110 or FT.

Tuning fork bolts came off no issue. I re-used the nut and bolt on the coffin arm connection. Re-use the essentric washers on the coffin arm/tie rods too. You'll see what I mean. Put some copper grease, or ideally ali paste on the bolt shafts for the arms and drop links.

Coffin arm & tie rod bolts had to be cut off using a recip saw. I used 6 bosch blades in total. 225mm long.

Drop link - I learnt the hard way. It's easier (trust me) to drop the damper and undo the drive shaft hub nut and work it on the floor. You cut off the knuckle side of the drop link with a metal cutting disc (grinder) and use the 18mm hex that remains with a decent impact wrench & socket. Plenty of plus gas - soak overnight. OS took 3 hours with heat, plus gas & a lump hammer. NS took 3 mins using the former method.

With the strut off it's easier to cut the arms / bolts with the recip saw. Better access. I cut the arms in half before attacking the bolts.

As above - take your time.

Have had it since 2018. Broke it. Fixed it. Cost me a fortune. Prob owes me more than it's worth but needs for nothing now.

Bought a 981 CGTS 18 months ago so this doesn't get used as much. Have kept the 987 mostly due to the bit above ^^.

Will probably move it on this summer. 

My 987 Boxster S ins renewal was £6 cheaper than last year's premium. £190.

Just had the renewal through on our 21 plate kia sportage. Up to £1,200, from £420 last year.

No change to personal info/drivers on either car. 2 weeks between each renewal. 

M18 Fuel FMTIW2F12-0X 18v 1/2" Mid-Torque Impact Wrench 

I changed the near side drop link tonight. Along with the NS control arms.

Top tip - If you're replacing them with the control arms etc, take the strut off first (3 nuts and the drive shaft nut). Takes 10 mins or so but with it laying on the floor you'll get a cleaner cut with an angle grinder on the link side to get to the hex nut bit. Loads of plus gas the night before. 18 mm impact socket and an milwauke impact wrench. Came loose within about 5 seconds of 'dugga duggas'. Out 20 seconds later.

OS took me 2-3 hrs with heat and a lump hammer. That was after I eventually removed the strut. I'd cut the link off before hand but managed to take half of the hex nut with it so couldn't get an impact socket on it properly. Lesson learnt!

Also, clean it all up and put the new drop link in whilst it's still on the floor. Easier. Ask me how I know. Don't forget some copper slip.

Moreover, with the strut off you've loads more room to get in with the recip saw for the coffin arm and tie rod bolts too. 

Scratch the cheaper bolt option. They get the parts from porsche. So they are the proper bolts. Just their catalogue is obviously out of date. 

At least they let me know. I cancelled the order with B&C and I'm getting them from porsche direct. 

Popped to my local OPC this morning.

Those M14 bolts are £9 each!

Bell and Colvil. Same bolts. £3.60 + VAT each.

Also, enquired about a handful of replacement undertray screws / nylon nuts. 10 of each. These, plus the bolts came in at £38!

Ordered the botls and screws from B&C. £20 + del. I'll get the M6 nylon nuts from ebay or similar.

Excellent, thank you 👍

Yeh, next question was gonna be about the torque settings. I found 160nm for the body fixing. I think it's the same on the coffin arm fixing. Everything is FT for now. Alignment needs doing. 

I've got the other side to do yet so I'll go back to this and refit the original bolt. Also, on the fork I've not replaced yet I found the spyder supplied bolt isnt thick enough either. Quite loose in fact. I double checked and it's listed as the tuning fork bolt. 

I'll pop to my opc in the week and get two new bolts. They're showing as £3-4 each +vat on Bell and Colvill so likely similar or less from porsche. I'll get 10% knocked off too. The head on the original is slightly rounded now so for a tenner it's a no brainer 

Yeh, that's the one. I still have the old one so I'll refit it

Thanks. 

I replaced all the rear control arms on my 987.1 boxster today (one side so far). 

The tuning fork fixing at the ball joint end. It took me a while to get it off at first. Was mostly touch as it's proper awkward to get to. Got it off in the end with a 21 mm socket / ratchet on top and a spanner on the bolt. 

Is the top nut captive? Feels it. 

I replaced everything with oem equivalent from spyder performance. Got new bolts (3 pairs). I assumed one of the longer pair is for the tuning fork but it's just a little too small in diameter for the captive nut. For now I've put the bolt up and through but tightened the nut down on top of the captive nut. It's long enough and tight but Im not convinced this is right. 

Should I have simply re-used the old bolt or is what I've done OK?

Rear coffin arms, tie rods, tuning forks and drop links. 

Did one side today. Drop link was a complete sod. 

Other side tomorrow. 

Had to replace one. Like for like. Bumper off job, as you gathered.

I think I may have solved my sticky window switches today, thanks to someone recommending WD40 (search found it). They were a little intermittent. I was watching youtube vids on removing the door cards etc to get to them. Seemed a right pita.

Literally sprayed some WD40 behind each of the switches and now they work much better.

Changed the exhaust tail pipe clamps. Old ones were shagged and came off pretty easy. One was already split the other I simply cut off with a grinder. Replacement clamps less than £20 on fleabay.

Also, changed the ARB bushes whilst I was under it. I had a spare set in the garage. The car needs a full suspension refresh. Starting with the cheap bits first.....

Do mine about twice a year. 

Fabsil Gold.

Brushed on. Usually a chinese takeaway dish full for the whole roof. Make sure you clean & dry the roof first, obviously.

On 4/29/2023 at 9:32 PM, Chris D said:

Cut, polish and ceramic spray. 

Bumper off. Replaced the leaking headlamp washer jets. Replaced home lights with LEDs. Bumper back on. Tested. Bloody hose has come off. Guess what. Bumper coming back off. Meh! 

Bumper back off today. 30 mins job now. It's the one million screws that takes the time lol. 

So. School day today. On the hose connections there's a little clip. Pushing it fully home releases the hose. It doesn't secure it. Doh!! Suffice to say, they're secure now. Back on and tested before fitting the millions screws again. All good. 

Whilst it was up on stands I cleaned up the rust on the lower arches too. 

Final job of the day. Fabsil gold coating on the roof. 

Cut, polish and ceramic spray. 

Bumper off. Replaced the leaking headlamp washer jets. Replaced home lights with LEDs. Bumper back on. Tested. Bloody hose has come off. Guess what. Bumper coming back off. Meh! 

The new unit from Porsche comes with 2x new DAB amplifiers. To replace the FM amplifiers in the A pillars.

I've seen this in an installation video and someone else on another forum has mentioned it when they installed it themselves. I just don't have sight of the part numbers. I'm thinking if I could source the DAB amplifiers seperately then I could replace my FM amplifiers and use the existing antenna cable.

Chris

Could anyone that has this (to fit themselves) be kind enough to post some details / part nrs / photos of the DAB amplifiers. I'm aware there are two; one per A pillar and it's a direct replacement for the FM amplifier.

I've an aftermarket Pioneer DAB/Carplay/Android unit in mine but I've the awful windscreen antenna. Curious to know if i can replace the OEM FM for DAB amplifiers.

Thanks

Chris

11 hours ago, daz05 said:

What you think is manual mode is not actually manual mode, manual mode is only active when the shift lever is pushed to the left (rhd car).

Auto is engaged when not, the driver can override with the paddles but because the lever is in the auto position it will take over again unless there is driver intervention.

In manual mode you can hit the limiter.

Sorry, I meant stick pushed over into manual too.

In manual (stick pushed over) it will still change gear itself. But your foot has to be planted to the floor. I can only assume (I've also read somewhere) there's a micro switch on the throttle; kick down or whatever. Once this is engaged (foot flat to floor) it'll change at redline. Reach red line without foot planted and it'll bounce off the limiter. In my experience anyway.

I'm still trying to work out PDK manual. More so in Sport Plus.

In manual - it will change automatically at the redline if your foot is flat to the floor on the throttle. More so in 2nd onwards. 1st I tend to change before as I've not quite sussed it yet.

I've watched videos of 981 PDKs on the nurburgring and with it in manual i don't see the driver shifting themselves. Up/Down. Paddles or stick.

On 3/9/2023 at 7:21 PM, steve7 said:

Thanks for all the feedback, I joined and paid via the website/paypal on the 1st however just sent them a chase email as I haven't received anything re my membership.

Thanks for the insight

Steve

Which region did you sign up to. I can have a dig into the magazine and provide you with a POC if need be. Unless they're listed on the website.