Chris D
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Posts posted by Chris D
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Cleaned and re-tightened drive shaft bolts. All loose 😳. Torqued to 60 ft lb and marked up.
Fitted oem headers.
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Yeh, still has oem pse fitted.
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Thanks. I've seen them, Design 911 sell them too.
Whilst they'll fool the O2 sensors and in turn cure the CEL issue, I think I'd rather pay a few hundred quid extra to have it mapped out if I'm honest. I'm not clued up enough to understand how the O2 sensors work exacatly in terms of engine management but I would expect to see some performance benefits of a map due to the decat headers too.
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So, my 2005 987.1 S has just passed it's MOT with decat SS headers fitted.
I was told it would occasionally throw up a CEL which it did, about 5 mins before the MOT. I carry an OBD2 reader in the glove box so that was quickly reset.
I'm after having it mapped. Primarily to prevent the CEL coming up again but to get the best from the SS decat too. What are my options with regards to reputable mappers. Where are they?
I'm East Midlands but happy to travel a few hours.
What should I expect and how much am I likely to pay?
Thanks
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Rears are brand new.
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Not tried yet to be honest. Was warming it up for an MOT Thu morning and noticed it. Heard it when turning right. Tried snaking left to right to replicate it and only does it when snaking right. Nothing picked up on MOT.
Only thing that has changed recently is the front bumper off but couldnt see anything out of place. Sounds like plastic scraping or rubbing.
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My 987 has 19" lobsters. Factory fit with PASM etc. Correct tyre sizes.
Never had it before but when I turn sharp right, i.e. snaking there's a rubbing noise from the NS of the car. Sounds like tyre on plastic or similar. Only does it when going to the right. i.e compression to the LHS of the car.
Whipped the NSR wheels off and couldnt see any marks on either the tyres or the plastic trim in the arches. Got me puzzled.
I have had the the front bumper off recently, to fit a new horn. I'm pretty confident that I put it all back together correctly, inc the arch trims.
Any ideas.
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Not today but yesterday I took it out for a run in the peaks. Was busy as you can imagine with the nice weather but a good run all the same. Roof down all the way!
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To help people searching for the same answer.
Passed its Mot today. Nothing dodgy and no backhanders required.
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Mot today. Passed with only one advisory. Slight play in steering. Track rod arms.
Has SS decat headers too. Happy with that!
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Mot booked for thu this week. Attempted to swap stainless headers for the oem with cats. 1 of 4 02 sensors siezed in the port. Unless I can get a new 02 sensor by weds its going in for its mot as it is so fingers crossed.
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So, just to close this out and help future searches.
I put the PCM 2.1 back in termporarily (took about 20 mins as expected). With ign on and the head unit on main, press set. Go into individual memory. Settings as per manual image above. I turned the lights off in the end.
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For the sake of swapping the head units back over (20 mins) I'll do that.
In the meantime, I'm happy with the DRLs being on. Was just a bit concerned it was broken.
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LE13.
I had psm 2.1 (still have it in a box) and the manual for it shows how to turn DRL on and off.
Seems to be a function that my car is equipped with. Do the rears operate as well as the fronts when DRL is activated?
I may have to temporarily swap the head units over to configure worst case. DRL isnt a bad thing. Not being able to switch it off so easily now is a bit of a pain.
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I have Xenons and Sports Chrono (did have PCM, now has aftermarket head unit) if it makes any difference.
When the ign is on / engine running the headlights and tail lights are always on. Light switch set to off makes no difference whatsoever.
Something at fault or is this normal?
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I had CL RC5+ on my Renaultsport Megane 250 Cup. They're brilliant for track. Not so good for normal daily use though. No backing plate so they would clunk as they moved fwd and back in the caliper when you reverse each time. Also, one set fell apart in the winter. They get wet then freeze and the bonding failed.
OK in the summer but in the winter I used to change them out for oem pads between track use. 10-15 mins per side on the megane.
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Nope. Tbf, as above my bmw LEDs were brighter
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I assume the xenons are like for like?
You've got me worried on the LEDs now. The car came with them fitted already, with a recent MOT too. They're bright enough but no more brighter than the LEDs on a BMW M140i I had.
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I have factory fitted xenons (601) fitted to one of my 987 Boxsters. The other has std lamps which the previous owner upgraded to LED (see pic). These lights are significantly brighter and clearer than the xenons. The lenses on both cars have been polished recently.
What options do I have to improved the xenon bulbs, if any?Thanks
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6 hours ago, Menoporsche said:
987.1 or .2?
think those are quite popular.
987.1
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Fitted stainless manifold bolts to my silver one. Also, replaced the caliper bolts to the OS rear. I did the NS the other weekend when I had to helicoil it follwing a shoes, pads and disc change. Thought about fitting the Zunsport grills but cba so it'll wait for another day.
On the black one. Removed the smoked repeaters it came with, replaced with OEM. It came with the former fitted, not my cup of tea. Have these for sale if anyone is interested. Fitted some felt pads to the base where the wind deflector thing goes to stop it rattling. Removed the P O R S C H E letters from the boot lid as a bit of the E had broken. Not standard, previous owner took the Boxster S badge off and fitted this instead. Again, I prefer the OEM look. Replacement Boxster S badge coming in the post from Etsy, next month hopefully.
Hoovered them both.
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Had similar on my last service. It gave me a to do list. They also did a RAG next to each item which helped me prioritise for the MOT.
Vibrations on over-run
in 987
Posted · Edited by Chris D
987.1 3.2 S
So, this has just started happening. 2nd / 3rd gear, on over-run I'm experiencing what feels like engine vibration. I think I can feel it in the pedals but it's defintely stronger through the firewall between the seats if you put your hand on it. Goes away as soon as I dip the clutch. No issues with gear changes.
Clutch and flywheel recently replaced. IMS too. All within past 6 months / 200 miles. Along with a major service and new rear discs / pads / handbrake shoes.
Lately, I have:
- Re-tightened the driveshaft bolts as I noticed one side was loose after a bolt came out the other sde. Cleaned, new bolts, torqued (60 ft lb) and marked up. They're all good.
- Removed the stainless race headers and fitted OEM headers with Cats.
Didn't have any vibrations before these the above.
Car is standard, no modifications.
Don't know if related but I'm noticing small puddles of oil on the garage floor (plastic) now and again, passenger side but I think it's coming off the plastic undertray. Clean oil, looks like engine oil. Oil gauge is reading full, every time. I know my power steering hoses could do with replacing but no issues with PAS.
Before I take it back to the Indy for a look, any thoughts. Engine / transmission mount(s) maybe??