Kay Pee
-
Posts
45 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by Kay Pee
-
-
I had misfire issues that appeared on my 1998 2.5 at around 100k with persistent misfire codes like P0300, 0301, 0302, 0303.
In my case it turned out to be a faulty variocam solenoid, the actuator was okay. I was able to remove the cam cover, remove cams and tensioner (variocam) with the engine in-situ. Little bit tight, but easy enough as my car was on a lift.
Without disassembly, check the resistance of the 2 variocams at the 2 pin connector (unplugged from loom). The open circuit (not plugged in) resistance of the variocam solenoids should be around 13 ohms. My bank 1 was a dead short, bank2 fine.
Other things to check are the chain tensioner (plastic) pads which are known to disintegrate. Mine looked well worn, so I replaced with new ones from design911 for around 20 quid. These pads are chain guides which are attached to the variocam actuator and move up and down to achieve the desired inlet cam timing variation.
-
engine life
in 986
My 1998 108k 2.5 purrs and drives like it has half that mileage. Been through quite a few owners lacking TLC, but also a few that did. Find someone good/cheap to work on it - and a friendly local breaker 🙂
-
3 minutes ago, edc said:
If needs must! I've managed to keep mine and have a just gone 2 yr old and nearly 1 yr old.
The boxster is our daily, you see
-
2 minutes ago, edc said:
If needs must! I've managed to keep mine and have a just gone 2 yr old and nearly 1 yr old.
Well done! I guess you don't also have a queue of cars awaiting MoT and TLC behind the Boxster 🙊
-
On 4/2/2022 at 10:00 AM, Triops said:
Shan’t do that it’s pretty quick even with this issue. I paid 5k it came with new tyres and a hardtop roof. Red leather interior, decent service history. Classic silver look. It’s still a great sports car. It was a little uneven on tickover when hot but I reckoned it was the maf which had been cleaned a few times before, also the coil packs were split. I had it checked by a Porsche independent before I bought. Nothing critical was identified.
It's sooooooo worth fixing 😄
-
Just dumping the info here before I forget it and in case it's of use to fellow BoXa'ers 🙂
My 2.5 variocams seemed to operate below 1500rpm which meant that only idle and starting off was affected. Stalled quite frequently on the reverse into our driveway 🙈
I ended up also replacing the o2 sensor on bank 1 as the heater circuit failed on it too. This is the primary o2 sensor before the cat.
-
In addition, I noticed that bank 2 was a lot harder to access than bank 1, and may required dropping the engine or removing other stuff to be able to remove the cam cover and variocam.
My engine is an early 2.5 with 3 chains and the most basic variocam type (on/off), which may vary slightly to yours @Triops
-
I recently changed my (2.5) bank 1 variocam with the engine in-situ, albeit on a car lift. My problem sounded similar, and I had P1341, P0300 and other misfire codes.
I had cleaned out the TB, checked for air leaks around the inlet manifold and checked plugs and coils but to no avail. A specialist checked the cam timing using Durametric and confirmed a cam timing deviation of about 13 degrees on bank 1. The signs weren't good.
After taking the bank1 cam cover and both cams out using the 101projects guide, I discovered it was just the solenoid (electrical actuator part of the variocam) that had gone, that was verified (before disassembly) by checking the resistance of the terminals on the 2 pin plug tail of the solenoid. Bank 2 was correct at 13 ohms.
-
Getting it ready for sale as impending baby looms closer 😞
-
The 101projects article on Camshaft Upgrade / Chain Tensioner Replacement was most useful to me during this work
-
1
-
-
Yes, I checked the timing using the slots on the end of the intake cam when re-assembling.
I did everything with the engine in situ, although I did have the car raised off the ground on a lift.
-
1
-
-
I got the car fixed last year by replacing both the Variocam solenoid (not actuator) and also the output transistor in the DME (engine ECU) which had also burnt out.
My variocam solenoid was a dead short (should be 13 ohms) at the 2 pin connector which was a giveaway. I was a bit confused as to why replacing it didn't fix the issue, but upon checking the DME output to the variocam bank 1 vs bank 2 I was able to see differences which lead me to the DME itself. The output transistor for bank 1 was shorted which was quite easily (and cheaply) replaced using the soldering iron and some patience.
I haven't seen any other cases where the wire has burnt off, so this issue does seem quite particular to my car. I just wanted to update the forum in case anyone else has similar issues.
-
Replaced both o2 sensors on a mission to fix a long standing bank 1 misfire issue.
Also replaced the first of the 2 front coffin arms as the bottom ball joint was knackered. OMG they are hard buggers to get out! I actually managed to pop out both the ball joint and the tapered steel insert (part of the hub) when 'tapping' it out.
Glad it's done now, steering wander gone 🙂
-
1
-
-
23 hours ago, edc said:
Yours must be a 2.5 then with cable throttle and seperate ICV?
Yep.
Didn't work, idle still a bit lumpy and stalls sometimes at low revs - off to hunt for vacuum leaks! 🤣
-
Removed the MAF when investigating a poor idle. Didn't look too dirty, so decided to check the pipework, hmmm, not too bad.
Little bit of oil in the hose from TB-AOS, not too bad...
Sure I'll make the effort and take the Throttle Body off to have a look - YUCK! Idle control valve ports all caked in black gunge, TB fairly mucky. All 102k miles of muck are present!
Will hopefully get it cleaned and re-assembled tonight to see if the idle is fixed 😊
-
17 hours ago, Shippers01 said:
Thanks for the info. Do you know where i could get paint and roughly how much it would cost? Also where do you get the caliper stickers.
I got the decals on ebay - the 100mm ones are just about small enough to fit on the smaller 2.5's calipers, but look well. Bit fiddly to fit, but they give you 6 in a pack so you can practice 🙂
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164475242107?var=464079203637
I used standard red hammerite metal paint in a tin from a local motor factors, painted on with a small-ish paint brush and with the disc covered and pads removed. I didn't want to completely remove the calipers so figured paint-on might be easier, and red overspray would be a bit obvious 😮 . I would probably look for a higher temperature compatible paint as suggested wisely below, remember my solution is untested as yet. Paint-on won't leave you with perfectly smooth finish either, but depends how fussy you are about the job.
The clear lacquer I used (fairly standard spray-on stuff) really didn't like the hammerite paint at all and caused it to shrivel up. The lacquer does make the fairly boring hammerite paint pop though, but nice light coats recommended (or perhaps slightly more research than I did 😄 )
18 hours ago, ½cwt said:Folks, I have to say I'm not sure how heat resistant ordinary Hammerite is for a caliper paint. You need to be using their High Heat paint that is 600°C resistant and a high temp compatible lacquer.
One of the caliper refurbishers sells a paint kit of their paint 2 part paint if you want to get the most appropriate paint for the job.
Good call
-
1
-
-
I also changed the ignition switch - good to rule this one out when diagnosing electrical issues and they're cheap enough. You can change it yourself with a little hoking around under the dash.
-
Does the alarm arm (and LED flash) and disarm (doors + boot/frunk unlock) okay? Interior lights and windows are controlled by the alarm unit. I had similar symptoms when my alarm hadn't unlocked properly.
-
Thanks guys.
It looked mint until the clear lacquer I sprayed on top made the hammerite contract and left creases in the paint 🙈
Had to completely re-paint one of the calipers, the others aren't too bad thankfully. I'm not very glad the stickers are sold in packs of 6 🤣🤣
-
Finally getting round to painting the calipers.
Budget job with Hammerite, stickers and lacquer, but I'm pleased with the end result.
-
1
-
-
If you have a half decent local motor factors I would give them a call. I got Borg & Beck front discs and pads for the 2.5 for under a hundred quid.
-
Out for a drive today in the fresh snow, so much fun!
Sadly to a friend's garage to get advice on how to drop the motor to fix the cam timing. Can't wait to get her running right for the better weather.
-
14 minutes ago, ½cwt said:
Time to find you local independent Porsche expert I suspect. From what's been said on here I believe you ahve two that come recommended over in NI.
A thought could it be saying it has slipped if the variable timing is working on one side but not the other due to the solenoid failure so giving a timing discrepancy. Trying to finder a cheaper bright side for you!
I really hope you're right!
I guess the first step is to check the timing marks to make sure it's only the variocam. I had a specialist look at it and he thought the timing had slipped.
Doing the work myself, so planning to tool up before dropping the engine and box out. Still, it's our daily driver and will be off the road for a while... 😔
-
I guess that would explain the erratic, poor idle I've noticed since we got it in October.
Sadly durametric shows bank 1 timing has also slipped 😒
Miss firing on bank 1.2.3
in 986
Posted
@Steve Laming@Geoffcollyer I noticed after clearing the CEL (specialist did this for me using Durametric) it stayed off for a certain mileage/duration before coming back on despite the misfire (variocam bank1 issue) persisting. I don't think this is related to the fuel here.