TGI_J

I've bought from this seller a front brake pad & disc kit for my 987.1 (All Brembo). Everything was all good.

I was able to re-use the dampers as they were in good condition on my car. Would probably do the same again when/if I need to replace again

14 minutes ago, BBB said:

Does the latch make a noise when you operate the frunk switch under the drivers door? If not, I wonder if you’ve blown a fuse?

If the latch makes a noise, but the frunk doesn’t open, perhaps leave it in the shade in case the hot sunlight has caused it to jam.

Seemed to have resolved it now!

Left it for an hour, came back and whilst trying to unlock it, also pushed down on the bonnet to see if it would help, and it popped open.

Took the time to reroute the manual release somewhere more accessible if it happens again. The actuator seems to get "weak" after a few times of pressing the unlock button, so I feel like this might not be the last time I get this problem

Just returned home from some quick shopping, had put my stuff in the front trunk, drove home 10mins, and now the frunk won't open!

Won't open with Keys, the footwell switch (trunk opens fine) and doesn't work when you try and jump it either. 

Any ideas? I'm aware there is a manual hood release? However that would involve taking wheels off, and erm, my locking wheel nut is in the frunk 🙃

I've locked it for now in the hopes that letting it rest for a bit will make it open again. 

rip ice cream

Thought I spotted something familiar today at Caffeine and Machine! Looks fantastic in the flesh. 

I had a sprint booster in my R53 Mini. It was a right hoot but the effect wears off pretty quickly. It just makes the pedal shorter, so you can get the same effect by stamping on the pedal faster 😆

20 hours ago, timbobalobox said:

Appreciate it might not be everyone's taste, but I think it looks really good and even better in the flesh.  The guys painting it have done a really good job - the finish is like glass!  In the different lights it looks soooo different too. Looking forward to getting the accessories/trim back on 😎

I didn't actually go for exactly any of the colours I posted - I ended up basing it on one of them and adding some more gold to give it a better 'fleck', which should also be complimented by the gold badges.

If I had decided to change the colour of the trim to a lighter colour I probably would have gone for one of the more bold colours (red/blue), however as I was keeping it black it always had to be a consideration.

 

Gorgeous colour! Can't wait to see it all come together now. 

On 11/5/2022 at 4:04 PM, Paul P said:

A PIWIS can tell you what caused the previous (I think ) 10 activations. 
 

one thing to try. Double press the lock button on quick succession. That locks the car, arms the alarm but disables the interior and tilt sensors - that may help narrow the problem and possibly give you a bit of peace and quiet.  

Will give the double press a go for now. The alarm doesn't go off that often, but it's always at an inconvenient time!

Suppose I'd have to get my hands one a PIWIS scanner, easier (and probably cheaper) than guessing until it's fixed

58 minutes ago, Takahashi said:

any change being left in the car? My old C70 volvo went nuts if you left change in the dash well for it. reflecting sensors or summat they reckoned!

 

I don't think I've seen cash for some time! I do have a phone charging cable & sunglasses/pouch though. Will remove them to see if it makes a change

48 minutes ago, BBB said:

@TGI_J, you said you checked the “battery voltage”, were you checking the main battery for starting the car? I’ve read reports of alarm issues when the alarm siren’s internal battery is faulty and wondered if you have checked that?

The main battery yes, took it to a shop and it read fine. Can't recall the voltage it was though. I didn't know that the Alarm had it's own battery. How would I go about getting that checked? Or can that be read with a code reader too?

33 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Single honk means car thinks something is open, door lock, frunk/bonnet, glovebox, armrest storage.

A decent code reader will tell you what or manual method of working it through, I'll guess it's a door sensor/lock.

If you're sure the battery is good maybe something on the internal motion sensor is triggering the alarm ?

Again suggest get it on a decent code reader to see what , if anything, is logged.

Do the key remotes arm/disarm the car ok and do the door locks work from that ? 

My glovebox & armrest are pretty dodgy in terms of shutting, I've got a reader at home so will check on the weekend regarding that. 

The key works fine, and unlocks/disarms etc. 

Last few months, the alarm on my 987.1 activates seemingly randomly. No matter time of day, always a few hours (sometimes minutes) after being locked.

Ever since I bought the car, it would 'honk' once when I lock it, which If I'm correct, means there is a problem, but alarm is still active. Didn't really bother me much until now, with the alarm going off at 2am in the morning. It would also sometimes double 'honk' or even not at all, it just seems random.

I've read that it could be low battery voltage. I did check this months ago when it first started happening, but the voltage was fine. What's the next thing to check/replace?

5 hours ago, Lewis987 said:

I'd like a smaller diameter steering wheel, 200 cell cats and my phone to bluetooth to the stereo.

 

Making it much faster, louder and more focussed makes no sense in a 15yr old daily driver

Second the smaller steering wheel, feel like I'm holding a boat's steering wheel sometimes (with the agility of a jet behind it) 

27 minutes ago, Richard Hamilton said:

Here is a pretty dreadful scan of the 1998 price list:  <LINK>

Is there anything like this for the 987/997 generation? I can only ever find the Cayman price list 

45 minutes ago, SpeedyGee said:

Thanks @Quinten

So front and back ones are exactly the same?

I think the the front and rear are different. The ones already on my car (The long ones I am holding) are what came with mine and were holding in brake pads suited for the rear of the car. So I imagine the rears are different since I had to order the one via ECP to get my new pads to fit. 

5 minutes ago, Paul P said:

I see different part numbers for front and rear on a 987S for the fasteners.

99635295901 Front ( and I assume rear for non S)

95535296000 Read ( S )

Front kits about £52 , Rear kit £47 inc vat before discount.

Are the pins longer on the S ?

 

 

 

It also seems to vary per car, so as the first part number seems to only be suitable for NonS 987. I originally ordered "95535296000/1" via Design911 but they didn't have stock, so went via ECP instead. 

1 hour ago, SpeedyGee said:

Good to hear you got the new pads fitted.

Where did you get the fitting kit from?

Just eurocar parts actually. I think it was a Pagid Kit for roughly £18 with the current discount 

Attempt number 2 at changing pads & discs today after finding out that someone previously had changed over the front fitting kit to support rear(?) pads & sensors. Discovering that last weekend definitely threw me off as my new pads wouldn't fit 🤣 Top that off with the ebay seller sending me the wrong sensors I just left the pads for today.

New fitting kit ordered and correct sensors arrived and voila! Finally new pads

Got my Cruise stick coded in at Deutsch Tech. Now all working and perfect. Not a bad total price from the US Breaker + Coding 

2 hours ago, huytonman said:

I did this on my 986, first bought a set of stalks on Ebay from a US breaker - decent price. Then picked up a part-assembled loom which in total came to about £160 with the stalks. Took the dash apart and fitted the stalks...the indicator stalk switch was however duff and after trying to fix it had to scrap the whole lot and re-start which after some checking result in me going new this time around from Euro car parts who sent me  unit in an OEM sealed box and plastic bag but which was the wrong stalk set (mislabelled at the factory); so back that went to eventually be replaced - lesson I learned was that the stalks do fail so going 2nd hand can be false economy and wasnt that much cheaper than new. The 2nd time of doing the job was more succesful but I did need to get the coding done by a local member so it wasnt only hardware on the 986. Definitely worthwhile as this also added the computer function so outside temp and range (hard to beleive these were options but it was a Porsche).

Keith

Thanks for the insight! There's a garage we use frequently at work who are able to code it all, so shouldn't be an issue.

1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

I suggest if you can get a full set, unbolt the required stalk(s) from that and bolt onto your own, as then you have better faith in the indicator stalk, which is usually the first part to go.

Solid advice. I did plan to just take the stalk and wire from the cluster and bolt it onto my own, probably easier too

30 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Nothing wrong with using a breaker, quite a few bits on mine have come from Steve Strange, 9apart and Status Porsche.

Yeah nothing wrong with breakers at all, ordered a fair amount of stuff via some already 

26 minutes ago, kevin450 said:

Yes that’s like the  one I bought  the whole assembly not seen the link to photo but from the photos you should see a small harness from the CC switch.
the lower cowl is is easy to cut just take a template from the other side of the cowl to cut out I used a dremmel tool

 

Thanks for confirming! I think I've spotted a cowl on ebay for a pretty cheap price, just need to compare it to mine as I can't see the part number on it, otherwise I'll just dremel it too. 

16 minutes ago, red rocket said:

That looks exactly like the one i got.  I just removed the cruise stalk and fixed it to my existing set up with a single screw (which obviates removing the whole wheel to use both screws). I think it should have a short wire and connector to join it to the existing set up so only question is whether you get that with the assembly you buy. If not i bet you'd get it cheaply from OPC.

Yeah the wire and connector doesn't seem to be hard to come by! Just ordered that stalk cluster from a US Breaker, now to wait patiently.

As for all the garages etc I rang up, not a single one could get me a kit, suppliers too. All either in many months time, or just not at all, so a breaker was really the only way to get one! I'll just use a garage to get it coded in! 

Appreciate all the help! 

13 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

@TGI_J If the 986 is anything to go by you can get all the bits (connector mouldings and pins, you provide the wire) to make up the cruise loom section from an OPC unless it is available as a complete plug in loom section.

Yeah probably, they didn't have the kit in stock, nor could even give me a date for it, but seen plenty of breakers that have that loom section 

Started looking into breakers as no garage or supplier is able to get one "new"

Am I right in saying that buying a full assembly like this will give me the switch (that I can remove) and the wiring harness I need? I think this is what @kevin450 meant

Then would just need the lower cowl etc

10 hours ago, ½cwt said:

If you are using it as a sports tourer/convertible as well as a sports car cruise is for when you just want to munch miles.  250 miles of British motorway or 350 French auto route without cruise to make it convenient is a pain with all the speed traps.  If you have it you don't have to use it, if you haven't got it but want it it is a PITA.

Pretty much, I use it as a daily too so motorway miles will be much nicer with cruise, specially with long legs

46 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

@TGI_J try Dove House at Rushden.

Also a good shout, will give them a ring.

11 minutes ago, kevin450 said:

Try dc auotomotive in the USA a Porsche breaker all the parts stalk cable lower cowl $155 plus postage, I’ve just done this got mine via ebay USA via another seller  fond dc automotive  after purchase but I did get 4 stalks and assembly. Easy to install I cut my cowl out just need to fit one screw.

programing CC took longer than the install charged an hour at Indy so overall £300ish plus I have a another 3 stalks and centre as spares or to sell on.

USA to buy parts I think is down to Richard Hamilton recommending 

 

 

Definitely going to have a shop around some US breakers, see if I can get a complete kit made up and shipped. 

Found CavendishPorscha – Independent Porsche Specialists who claim to be able to Supply+Fit for £410 plus VAT, which is a good improvement too. 

7 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Good tip from @Richard Hamilton in the thread 

 

 

That is definitely some solid advice, will make sure to check there more often. 

7 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Northway?

Easy job, I’ve heard. 

Can give them a ring. It is a pretty simple job, hardest part is sourcing the stalks if you wish to do it yourself.

Hey all,

Looking to get Cruise retrofitted to my 987.1 before I take it on holiday later this year, and was wondering if anyone knows any garages in or around Northamptonshire that can offer good competitive pricing for it? I got quoted £600 (incl VAT) from Towcester Porsche so looking for anything cheaper than that and local. I don't mind traveling a little bit, or heck, even if someone is selling the kit I can fit it myself and get it coded. Just can't find anywhere in stock that has it 

Took the Easter weekend as an Opportunity to borrow the 3D Scanner from work. I plan to make a Render model from it! Should be a fun project