sdh2903

Especially in the west of Scotland. Think they get paid a bonus on how many tonnes of salt they get rid of!

I think the biggest issue is lack of use. Its barely done 4k in the past 3 years. It's been stored outside with all the cr*p, salt and muck in the wheel arches. When I took the cover off in the front to get to the strut tops it was full of spider webs. The corrosion is all light and surface only and has cleaned up fine. Another couple of years of sat neglected it may have been too far gone.

Before reassembling any further the front wheel arch areas needed some attention. Area around the strut tops had some surface corrosion.

also the braces that were removed for the subframe drop were a bit crusty.

cleaned up ok with the wire brush in the die grinder.

Also the rad shroud brackets cleaned up

And also both front wings aft of the wheels had paint erosion so got the same treatment.

All these bits, plus the front arb brackets and rear ARB were then treated with Bilt hamber hydrate 80 to hopefully stop any further spread. I had initially thought the rear ARB was scrap but it looked a lot worse than it was so thats a few quid back into the pot.

Plan is then to acid etch prime and stonechip the strut tops and the front wing edges, the rest will get a few coats of satin black.

Has anyone looked at hydrodipping these?

yesterdays haul of scrap metal removed from the front end!

I did make one small c*ck-up on the last drop link, I cut the ball end off but my blade had cut into the hex part which meant the impact gun just chewed up the hex. Will need to weld a nut back on to get this one out, at least the fronts are easier to remove as an assembly.

1 hour ago, gillbe said:

Have this same rear suspension refresh to tackle on my 2010 987.2.  Question - did you have to detach the half shaft to have enough wiggle room to get the rear shock absorber out?  

No the half shaft remained in place. I did however remove the coffin arm first which gave more room to get the shock out.  

8 hours ago, invisible said:

What made you decide for the Koni Active shocks over OEM or any other option? What springs have you chosen? Asking because I have another 987.2 on 104,000m and looking to replace them. Ta. 

Ref the shocks Just going off the reviews on here and a mate with a 986 rates them. Wasn't much choice really, OEM are £££ so it was down to the konis or bilstein b4.

Springs are h&r sport springs.

5 hours ago, Mattman42 said:

I'm still staggered as to how bad it is underneath for a 55k mile car - just goes to show what can be hidden underneath

 Yep, just goes to show low miles isnt everything. Someone buying this car without doing any digging would be getting some hefty bills.

So nice today to be assembling some new parts rather than old crusty ones!

So apart from a few new pipe clips, which ive just collected, and the ARB to clean up and paint thats the back end complete.

I will then move to the front, although still another 10 days or so for the spyder front coffin arms to arrive so wont be able to complete, but ive plenty of other tasks to keep me occupied.

23 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Seized drop link - All part of the Boxster DIY mechanic initiation.  If they don't go first attempt, always get the cutting gear out.  They don't just magically free off as they are partly chemically welded in place, or at least trapped by expanded corrosion from the iron/aluminium dissimilar metal situation.  Same applies to the two eccentric bolts on the rear end, coffin arm and toe link inboard ends although you have got one off OK.  If they don't go, get the nut off and waggle them around so you can get a recip saw or cutting disc in there to cut the bolt.  It is firmly seized into the bush and any impacts from your impact wrench are being absorbed by the rubber bush.

You must have had a crystal ball! moved to the O/s rear today and not only was the drop link seized but also the inner coffin arm bolt too, just my luck i had no steel cutting blades for the reciprocating saw, after lots of swearing and backing it off and on finally managed to get it out. Was also met with a broken spring too as half a coil had broken off 🙄

Ive been messing with cars for longer than ive been able to drive them and can honestly say the suspension strip out has been the worst i've ever done, Porsche seriously lacking in the metalurgy department in the noughties.

Gave the wheel arches a good soaking in BH surfex and gave them a scrub up in preparation for building back up

And now onto the nice stuff, building up the new bits ready to go on tomorrow.

19 hours ago, Philc said:

Have you driven it yet? Mine only showed it had an airlock on the first drive, was happy idling to temp when stationary, just something to be wary of, but as you’ve got 22 litres back in, it should be good 👍 

No not yet, ill take it for a spin with the bleed valve open and double check the levels once I get it back down on its wheels. 👍

Had a couple of hours yesterday and was hoping to get one corner of the suspension fully stripped, but a very stuck drop link slowed me up. Eventually cut the ball end off with the angry grinder and used the impact gun on the hex to break it free, very slightly depressing to think ive got another 3 to go 🙄

Looks like a couple of dry ish days coming up so hope to progress a bit more.

24 minutes ago, Dubdubz said:

good to hear on the filling up - where has your car been though it does seem to have not faired well against the elements...

Think it's a combination of being used in Scotland and the fact its not been used much in the past few years. Been used hard and put away salty! It's bad for a 55k car. 

so have managed to finish off the brake pipe replacements, thought the rear one over the gearbox would be a pig but was actually ok, i think it would be pretty impossible to replace with a factory steel line with engine and box in place.

Thankfully all the mega crusty caliper pipes came out without any problems

And then given an initial fill and bleed with the eazi-bleed, will give them another bleed off the pedal aswell.

Its now also been refilled with coolant, I did it the old fashioned way, ar*e up nose down and massaging all the rubber hoses, disconnecting the bleed hoses in the front wheel arches helped during initial fill. Have done a few heat cycles now and the amount needed to top up each time has gotten smller and smaller. I reckon ive got 22 ish litres back in so its not far off and the temps etc are behaving normally. 

Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations for one? Or if anyone is willing to lend me one in exchange for beer tokens?

32 minutes ago, Dubdubz said:

Great work - I've not checked mine as yet - do you have any more details of the long studs in the end? as in pitch etc?
And any more pics - did you undo any of the suspension arms/balljoint stuff?

Given me confidence its possible on the drive!

Have you bought a vacuum coolant filler - sure I read this is needed for these - but perhaps someone who knows more can comment?

Theres a decent guide here.

Pipe renewal

For the threaded rod. The very front bolt (#9 in the pic up the page) is m12 x1.5 so I made up 2 rods for those. All the other bolts are m14 x 1.5 which I didn't have. So I removed the long bolt from the tuning fork #7 and fitted it at the back. Then just gently lowered it down on the jack. 

No suspension components removed just the 2 steering rack bolts as per the guide.

On the coolant refill side, I don't have a vacuum filler. I've read conflicting information. Some says that the gen 2 doesn't have the bleeder on the header tank. Some say it does. As you say hopefully someone on here can comment?

Overall not a terrible job to do on the drive but would be so much nicer to do on a 2 post lift.

Made use of the time spent by the pool on holiday and kept the postman busy!

Also noticed I dodged a bullet on the brake pipes, came home to a puddle under the scabby sections.

So cracked on today and got the coolant pipes done. The crossovers were well rotten, the 2 o/s pipes had been replaced at some point but guess they knew the crossovers were rotten as they'd assembled with blue hylomar.

Also ran in a new crossover brake pipe whilst the subframe was dropped.

If the weather holds tomorrow will hopefully get a chunk of the rest of the brake lines done. 

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Works out at about £570 inc VAT.  Check difference with OPC pricing, might not be much once 10% discount is taken off.

Theyve added the 2 plastic pipes in now I see. They are running a 10% offer at Spyder just now so works out at about 520. Porsche Glasgow will do the same kit for 540 (that's with discount). So will go for the oem full kit and if I can salvage the plastic pipes I'll return them.

Am away on hol this week but have spent plenty by the pool!

So far I've ordered all the coffin arms. Tuning forks and  rear track rods. New front top mounts, all mounting hardware, front track rod ends. 

Think I'm settled on konis for the shocks although Spyder are about to list bilsteins I think.

Still undecided on changing springs.

Have all the kit to make up some new brake lines apart from the m12 bits on the long pipes. 

Will be busy when I get back!

Which ones do you use to lower? @bally4563 

7 is listed as m14x1.5 and 9/10 as m12x1.5

5 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Yes it’s the way I do it, makes it so much easier installing/lining up wise, working away so can’t comment on the pitch but from memory I think they were 10mm x1.5 mm ?

thanks, I think from the parts catalogue the big long ones are 12 or 14mm fine thread? Sounds like a good way of controlled lowering, thanks for the tip.

Regards the coolant pipes, has anyone used the spyder ones? or is it best to stick to oem with them?

https://www.spyderperformance.co.uk/shop/cooling/pipes-hoses/pipes-hoses-pipes-hoses/porsche-997-987-gen1-2-front-coolant-hose-pipe-set-2/

3 minutes ago, nelmo said:

Remove the [img] tags....I had the same problem :-)

Also a new owner who has a kit (GBS Zero) - although my building days are behind me (too lazy)....

Thank you, sadly I no longer have the westy as it was written off. So time to move to something more sensible 🙂

Woo-hoo it works!

failing at imgur pics!

Have tried to upload some extra pics but seems i have hit my limit! guess I need to host them elsewhere?

Any how, the window reg was done, probably one of the easiest regs ive ever changed to be honest, very straightforward.

My current list of items that need attention and some questions for you knowledgeable folk.

-Brake pipes, crusty as under the side panel. All caliper pipes are needing done. will make new ones up from Kunifer.

-coolant pipes are needing done, quick question here, do you usually need to replace the plastic tubes or can these get damaged on removal of the rusty bits? Everything from the front end of the long pipes is looking a bit worse for wear. Also is oem the best way with these or are the spyder performance ones ok?

-rear ARB is rotten

-One of the front coffin arms has play and a couple of the dampers feel a bit weak so i think im going to bite the bullet and do a full refresh. Any suggestions on arms? was looking at  the spyder full kit. Probably go for b4 dampers.

-possibly lower it a touch whilst I've got the suspension apart, although reviews seem mixed on lowering? any particular spring kits to go for/avoid?

-have a kenwood double din to go in to get dab and Android auto sorted.

Morning all, first time porsche owner, have just picked up a 987.2 3.4 that needs a little love. Ive come from building westfields and other kits so a bit of a project appealed.

Car is a 2009 with 55k on the clock, last mot had a few advisories for coolant leak and brake pipes so knew it needed work. Just before viewing the seller messaged me to say the N/s window reg had failed aswell to add to the list. Car was otherwise as described and has a decent service history so a price was agreed and collected the next day. I'm no buff on these but i think its a fairly basic spec, but had the 2 essentials for me, manual and bum warmers.