cj225 Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Just a quick one here, very easy to do. Tools Required 10mm socket or spanner How To: Easiest thing, first of all, is to move both seats forward and out of the way. Then, remove the carpet covering the firewall - this is easily done if you loosen the storage compartment (where fitted). There may be clips holding the top of your carpet on, as seen by the yellow arrow (photo borrowed from Pelican). Once removed, you'll see the service panel. There are some 11 10mm fixings on here - 2 nuts by the gear cable routing, and 9 or so bolts around the circumference. Once these are removed (and kept safely to one side), you'll be able to lift the panel off... You'll now be able to see the Auxiliary Belt. Check the whole length for signs of wear, especially cracking or splits in the ribs. Whilst mine isn't in terrible condition, it looks perished with age, so I'll be changing this soon. I'll update this as and when. It's also a good idea to look for general leaks in this area. Again, borrowed from Pelican... 1 = Power Steering Pump 2 = Alternator 3 = Upper Idler Pulley 4 = Water Pump 5 = Air Conditioning Compressor (not installed) 6 = Crankshaft 7 = Tensioner Pulley 8 = Lower Idler Pulley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toeside Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Excellent work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M12MTR Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 If this belt is worn / perished / incorrectly tensioned what are the symptoms? (Would it give a low pitched squeal type sound?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj225 Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 17 minutes ago, M12MTR said: If this belt is worn / perished / incorrectly tensioned what are the symptoms? (Would it give a low pitched squeal type sound?). As the drive is frictional, you tend to glean a lot from noises. If the belt is too tight, you may hear a harsher sound (think of a goose call) than if the belt is too loose, which would be a higher pitched squeal (like you'd make with trainers on a gym floor!). An excessively tightened new belt would sound a lot like a deep hum, but all of this can be quite difficult to hear over the sound of the flat six operating normally, due to drivetrain noise and general reverberation through a small/cramped engine bay. Best way to tell is to inspect the belt. You may see cracks like mine (from perishing, due to age/deterioration of the rubber) or glazing (where the surface would seem 'shiney' rather than a matte rubber look). As many of the components on a 986 are somewhat analogue, you can normally feel belt tension/slip through the steering. If you steer left to right, you might feel a skipping (or varying resistance) through the wheel, but again you could run the engine with the cover off and you'd see this. It can all be a red herring though, as a failing water pump, alternator, PAS pump etc. can all have more drag, so the belt can start slipping (in perfect health, and correct tension) over a pulley if that pulley's bearing etc. is failing. Again, visual inspection both of the belt, and also looking for leaks (as suggested in the guide) is key, but you'd probably notice anything untoward by looking at the pulleys with the engine running (carefully, with appropriate eye protection blah blah etc.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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