Tritonkev Posted June 13, 2019 Report Share Posted June 13, 2019 Not coming up had an advisory last year slight corrosion So think I may replace with copper Any advice appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefunkygibbon Posted June 13, 2019 Report Share Posted June 13, 2019 CuNiFer/Kunifer. I've got to do all my pipes at some point soon and shall be doing it with this. Apparently it is better as it doesnt corrode like steel/copper does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonogt6 Posted June 13, 2019 Report Share Posted June 13, 2019 Yep I agree with Mr Gibbon. Definitely cupro-nickel aka cunifer. Very easy to work with and much more resistant to metal fatigue than copper. It's roughly the same price as copper in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonybandit Posted June 13, 2019 Report Share Posted June 13, 2019 Just done all my brake pipe two weeks ago and all done in copper. Deffo easy to work with and will last me out. Be careful with the plastic clips as they will be very brittle now. A couple of mine broke. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefunkygibbon Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 being told by garage that it will need an engine drop so will be fair number of hours to do. is this right? I thought I read somewhere that you can do it with Cunifer without dropping. garage wants to quote me "genuine brake pipes not copper roll looks cheap and devalues motor". thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonogt6 Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 12 minutes ago, thefunkygibbon said: being told by garage that it will need an engine drop so will be fair number of hours to do. is this right? I thought I read somewhere that you can do it with Cunifer without dropping. garage wants to quote me "genuine brake pipes not copper roll looks cheap and devalues motor". thoughts? Well bearing in mind that the pipe is so inaccessible and out of sight that they think it needs an engine drop I'm surprised that they're concerned about its aesthetics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanky Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 44 minutes ago, thefunkygibbon said: being told by garage that it will need an engine drop so will be fair number of hours to do. is this right? I thought I read somewhere that you can do it with Cunifer without dropping. garage wants to quote me "genuine brake pipes not copper roll looks cheap and devalues motor". thoughts? There is only one brake pipe that goes over the gearbox, that would probably be easier with the gearbox out. But others have done it with it still in place, I have also seen a post where someone has replaced this pipe with a custom braided brake line. As for devaluing the car, what sort of brake pipes do you think they use when they restore old Porsches, which are probably 10 x the value of Boxster. I cant see it devaluing the car, but could look cheap if they are poorly made. I have replaced my front to rear brake pipes, with Cunifer. But I did use genuine pipes for the flexible hose to the calliper. Here is a short video of my brake pipes after they were replaced by me, this was the first time I have ever made and fitted brake pipes. Think they look quite professional myself. https://youtu.be/yVxLq2B7cfA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 4 hours ago, thefunkygibbon said: being told by garage that it will need an engine drop so will be fair number of hours to do. is this right? I thought I read somewhere that you can do it with Cunifer without dropping. garage wants to quote me "genuine brake pipes not copper roll looks cheap and devalues motor". thoughts? If you use OE steel pipes this will be true, but on a 1999 Boxster nobody is going to worry about copper brake lines, probably see them as a plus since they've obviously been replaced. It's straightforward to do in copper with the engine/gearbox in situ, you just remove the top engine cover and feed in the pipe from the top and all the way out through the wheelarch and then reverse and feed it back into the other wheelarch. You can then bend in situ to attach to clips etc. Just need to remember where the old line went as it's not obvious once you've removed the old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefunkygibbon Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 thank you guys, much appreciated and clarifies what I suspected from what I thought I read previously. 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonybandit Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 On 6/19/2019 at 4:58 PM, thefunkygibbon said: thank you guys, much appreciated and clarifies what I suspected from what I thought I read previously. 😁 They are not hard to do just more fiddly than anything. As for dropping the engine, that's deffo not needed. As for removing the gearbox, the pipe is over the back of the engine and the gearbox out wouldn't really make it much easier. Crazy idea. Cash hunting in think. I've done all mine. Didn't find it hard at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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