Used charger on 24 Volts by mistake for Bonett release

[DaveEFI]

Really not sure why you can't simply connected the charger direct to the battery? It's easy enough to get at.

[K.I.T.T.]

3 minutes ago, DaveEFI said:

Really not sure why you can't simply connected the charger direct to the battery? It's easy enough to get at.

Disconnect your battery to simulate a flat, close frunk, then report back  

[Def1]

Bad luck just getting the car then having this happen ,it’s too late now but there’s an emergency cable you could have pulled to open the bonnet ,i think it sits behind the headlight so you have to remove the inner wing liner which is a faff having said that this method is probably more suited if you shut the keys in the bonnet especially on a locked car , good luck I hope you get it all sorted 👍

[Markeg]

Sunday pm update

Ok have now got the bonnet open - the CTEK charger arrived and I left it in repair mode through the cigarette lighter socket overnight.
However in the morning the orange flashing light reported that the battery could not be repaired and that came up a few times as I tried again.

So under the left wing I went - removing the 4 screws - and prising back the lower inner wing inside cover - which promptly snapped at the top.
In for a penny in for a pound so I broke away more of this cover - (Wheel in place and no car jack available, steering lock immovable)
I have a few scratches bumps and bruises to show for this - but am ok.

I then saw the elusive cable emergency release (its not easy to find) and got my hand in there to pull out a bit - (there are you tube videos for this) - it pulls out a bit then stops.

I finally got a self grip on the end of the cable and with a great deal of pulling, the bonnet  / "frunk" popped open - hurray.
The emergency cable is hidden away under the wing - behind the inner wheel arch and it does not have a loop or easy way to pull it. (there are some photos if you search)

It took a lot of strength with the self-grip attached to achieve this (especially with the wheel still in place - locking wheel nut locked in bonnet)

With the bonnet open I attached a trickle charger - and the alarm went off - Very loud.
Put key in ignition, pressed remote - swore a lot and then disconnected the battery. Alarm still going - for around 5 minutes - stopping and starting.

Its quiet now - the battery is disconnected and charging - will think about re-connecting tomorrow - been an adventure so far (read pain in the rear!) - hoping for a quite morning and a car that starts, but who knows what tomorrow will bring.

Stay safe everyone - don't let you batteries run down!

Keep your locking wheel nut inside the car.

Don't push 24 Volts into a 12 Volt system 

Cheers

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sa utah]

You definitely need to get a new battery.  If the CTEK won’t bring it back to life it’s goosed.  You’re wasting your time charging it up.  It may look charged but will be totally depleted the first time you use it.   Had a similar situation on our Smart roadster.  

[Markeg]

13 minutes ago, sa utah said:

You definitely need to get a new battery.  If the CTEK won’t bring it back to life it’s goosed.  You’re wasting your time charging it up.  It may look charged but will be totally depleted the first time you use it.   Had a similar situation on our Smart roadster.  

Not so worried about the battery - having not used the car for a month was not surprised it went flat.

My big mistake was to put 24 volts into the system using the documented (fuse board connection, open bonnet recovery) rather that  12V  -
I may have fried the ECU or other relays... and other systems

 

Will see tomorrow if this is the case - it does look like its taking a charge now and is only a year old..

 

Cheers

Mark 

 

 

[sa utah]

If the CTEK can’t detect any voltage at all it won’t start the recovery cycle.  You can trick it buy using a 9v battery to kick start the process though.  But what you’ll find is the battery will charge up, look like its good to go and measures 12v but when you put it in the car it won’t have any current delivery.   I had this with a 10 month old Bosch S4 battery which had been left on the car and was so run down that it just wouldn’t come back to life.   I’d bought it from ECP and still had the receipt (thanks to email click and collect etc) so they just swapped it.   The CTEK chargers were bought just after that and zero problems now.  I have one car that never gets used and I put a battery isolator on that so I can just flip the switch should I need to move it.   
 

hope you get it started btw and your 24v inrush was stopped by the totally flat battery.  

[Markeg]

So I connected the CTEK and it was able to get the battery back to 100%

However when I try to re-connect - red first then black - the Frunk light came on - then the alarm.

I tried removing fuse Row B - F3 - which is stated as for the Alarm Siren - then disconnected the battery again and the Alarm continued on and off for a few minutes.

It's very loud, but this time I had my in ear headphones in which deadened the noise. (poor neighbours)

Whilst the battery was connected - I did have a key in the ignition, at position 1 
and I tried the Key fob buttons several times with the spare key but could not stop it.

So my question is how do I disable the Alarm before connecting the battery up again?

Perhaps removing the fuse Row B - F3 before connecting the battery, or is there a wire I could disconnect on the siren itself.

In normal times I would have sent this to my Garage, but was hoping to get past the current issues myself

I can get a new battery here easily enough - but there might well be bigger problems caused by the 24V surge

 

Cheers

Mark 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[The Caped Crusader]

@MarkegI always disconnect the battery with key in the ignition position - all lights showing on dash. Try it. Mine is a 987.

[Glosrich]

Have you reset the frunk emergency cable,i.e. pushed it back, and cycled the frunk lock a few times with either the keyfob or the button on the drivers door sill.

Alarm might be going off because it thinks the frunk has been broken into to?

 

 

[Markeg]

Think I may have the solution there is a 5 pin relay top right in the fuse box that is part 99965701490

Shows 404 when looking in the box - I pulled it out and the is a slight smell of burning - have ordered a new one £13 

Its called "emergency operation lid" on the parts sheet for my car - design99 - Parts supplier.

I think it has something to do with the ignition too, probably wont be here till next week though

So fingers crossed - it might solve the problem - as key fobs, key in ignition etc were not stopping the alarm. and nothing is working .

My 24 volts input - (see original post)  hopefully only grilled that relay and nothing else - but we will see.

If I had known then, what I know now, might have been back in business by just replacing that relay - but time will tell

Have a great weekend all - Stay safe

 

 

 

[T911UK]

I fear you may be waiting a while for that part to come from D9. I would go to Rose Passion and get one, only a tenner but shipping as much but at least you will see it next week.