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Used charger on 24 Volts by mistake for Bonett release


Markeg

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Hi - I hope everyone is well 

Have not used my 2007 - 987 for a couple of weeks and had the flat battery.

So I read up and bought a charger with a jump start boost

Like a complete fool I connected to the fuse board  and door pillar and switched on - The sound of frying ensued..

I switched off and realised the charger was set to 24 Volts output...!!

Nothing works now I tried key in ignition to see if there were any signs of life and that was  stuck in there too, but have since used the key release tool.

Have I damaged the system - or is there a fuse somewhere that might have blown - the main ones seem ok in the panel 

(the charger fuse is ok and it seems to be working) 

Would appreciate some help if anyone has any thoughts on this - Also Don't do the same stupid thing as me - check the output voltage.

Stay safe everyone

Cheers Mark in UK

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Probably wise to check all the fuses as hopefully they’ve gone before anything else has been fried. 
I once stuck a 12v battery in a 6v beetle.  Luckily I only blew the brake lights and indicators.  
 

hope you get sorted.  

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5 hours ago, Markeg said:

The sound of frying ensued..

Hopefully it was fuses popping, so I would go through them all on the fuse board in the footwell, as has been suggested.  There is a current distributor in the passenger footwell (on a LHD car) which has 80A fuses, but I have never accessed one, so no experience.  Also, not sure which side it is on a RHD car.  The instructions I have aren't that clear, but you must disconnect the battery before attempting to access it, and it looks like you have to cut a seal to get the fuse cover off.  If you want the instructions, drop me a PM with your email address.

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I'll have to check the circuit diagram but IIRC, on the 986, when you connect power to the emergency connector in the fusebox, it isolates whole chunks of the cars electrics and just powers up the essential bits to make the frunk catch work (and the alarm / remote I think) .

If the 987 wiring is similar I suspect that you may have fried the alarm ECU but you may have got away with the rest of the system.

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On the 986, applying power to the emergency connector energises a relay that disconnects the normal supply from the current distributer (and ultimately the battery) and instead uses the power that you have connected.  It seems that only the alarm ECU is connected to the emergency supply so, if the 987 is the same, you may have cooked that only. 

If you're really lucky I suppose it could have burnt out the relay and that's the only bit you need to replace. Can you hear a relay clicking when you connect power (12 volts!)  to the emergency point?

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10 minutes ago, topradio said:

On the 986, applying power to the emergency connector energises a relay that disconnects the normal supply from the current distributer (and ultimately the battery) and instead uses the power that you have connected.  It seems that only the alarm ECU is connected to the emergency supply so, if the 987 is the same, you may have cooked that only. 

If you're really lucky I suppose it could have burnt out the relay and that's the only bit you need to replace. Can you hear a relay clicking when you connect power (12 volts!)  to the emergency point?

Many thank to all for the feedback - I am fortunate to not need the car for shopping etc at the moment as I am not going out much. 

Have contacted my local garage and we can think about how to repair  - there's no rush - but will be grateful for any further info about want to do next

Stay Safe - Cheers Mark 

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16 minutes ago, topradio said:

On the 986, applying power to the emergency connector energises a relay that disconnects the normal supply from the current distributer (and ultimately the battery) and instead uses the power that you have connected.  It seems that only the alarm ECU is connected to the emergency supply so, if the 987 is the same, you may have cooked that only. 

If you're really lucky I suppose it could have burnt out the relay and that's the only bit you need to replace. Can you hear a relay clicking when you connect power (12 volts!)  to the emergency point?

Yes there is a click every time - if I connect and disconnect the black 12v  on the door post..

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18 minutes ago, topradio said:

Ok, so the relay is energising.  Have you now recharged the battery and connected it.  What happens when you do?

No -  I still cant open the bonnet /hood - everything is non functional now 

I have read about removing wheel arch interior covers to access to release cable - but have not tried that yet ..

(Wheel nut locking key is in the boot and cant get into that either) - ( which make this tricky apparently without removing the wheel)

So cant get near the battery to recharge - its only a year old so should be good if I can just open the bonnet.

Cheers

Mark 

 

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4 minutes ago, topradio said:

It does sound like you're going to have to get in to the frunk by a mechanical method.  If you can prise down the liner you should be able to get your arm in and fish around for the emergency release cable.

Ok thanks - from research I think that's on the passenger / left side of the car in the uk - there a you tube on how to get in.

Will try tomorrow and if it works get the battery charged - but do you think the 24V will have caused some other damage? 

Cheers 

and thanks 

Mark 

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Difficult to say.  A lot of circuits will have their own regulators to reduce the battery supply to a lower working voltage, sometimes these can be robust enough to handle the over voltage. Also it can depend on how much current your charger can supply as to whether the regulators can take it for a while.

You said that you heard frying, exactly what did it sound like, where did it come from and could you smell burning? 

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1 hour ago, sa utah said:

You could try something like a CTEK charger via the 12v socket in the arm rest with the correct adapter cable.   That’s a good way of charging and then popping the Frunk.   There’s no 24v option either ...... 

Definitely worth a try, good call. 

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If they ever bring back the electric chair, the OP has my vote to run it. Perhaps double the voltage will make those miscreants think twice before committing their dastardly crimes.😀

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10 hours ago, Scubaregs said:

If they ever bring back the electric chair, the OP has my vote to run it. Perhaps double the voltage will make those miscreants think twice before committing their dastardly crimes.😀

I'm with you on this but unfortunately it is current that kills you not voltage. 

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Very unlikely the charger could get close to 24 volts if the battery was still connected, and not toast. The very low internal resistance of the battery would try and take far more amps than the charger could supply - unless some massive industrial unit.

Charge the battery properly by connecting the charger direct to it. Review the situation after it's charged.

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I presume like the 986 the 987 will have main supply fuses/relays the whole point of which is to protect the major systems from power spikes over the ampage it should be using.

24 volts on a booster could deliver cold cranking amps well in excess of your cars sytem on jump packs not sure the type you are using but do the unmanly thing a find and read the instructions as that at least will give an idea of the potential damage.

Get a wiring diagram if you can and have a look at the starting circuit as this should give you some idea of relvant master fuse/relay involved.

 

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38 minutes ago, DaveEFI said:

Very unlikely the charger could get close to 24 volts if the battery was still connected, and not toast. The very low internal resistance of the battery would try and take far more amps than the charger could supply - unless some massive industrial unit.

Charge the battery properly by connecting the charger direct to it. Review the situation after it's charged.

The battery is disconnected from the emergency contact by a relay.

As @sa utah has suggested above, connecting a charger to a permanent 12 volt line could revive it.

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22 minutes ago, topradio said:

The battery is disconnected from the emergency contact by a relay.

As @sa utah has suggested above, connecting a charger to a permanent 12 volt line could revive it.

Thanks to all - I am going to try and get a CTEK and see if it helps 

I also have AA home start so if not, will give them a call too. just trying to avoid calling them out as there is no urgency to use the car.

Happy Easter and thanks 

Mark 

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If the cigarette lighter is normally live without the ignition being on, you could wire your existing charger to there and try to revive the battery.  There's nothing special about a CTEK apart from it being a conditioner and can be used to permanently maintain the battery. 

BTW, where's East Molersey or is it a typo

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2 hours ago, topradio said:

If the cigarette lighter is normally live without the ignition being on, you could wire your existing charger to there and try to revive the battery.  There's nothing special about a CTEK apart from it being a conditioner and can be used to permanently maintain the battery. 

BTW, where's East Molersey or is it a typo

East Molesey Possibly? Which is near to Hampton Court, Surrey

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14 hours ago, Malcolm E Box said:

East Molesey Possibly? Which is near to Hampton Court, Surrey

Yes that's right East Molesey - I have ordered a CTEK and cigarette adapter, there's no rush as I am not using the car - and don't want to risk getting the polarity wrong etc 

Cheers

Mark 

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Glad my son is of for 3 days, (AA Patrolman) could be in your area......

Sounds like a nightmare!

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