INSTRUCTIONS FOR STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL AND RECONFIGURATION OF STEERING WHEEL BUTTONS

[graham964]

 

Hi All

If anybody is frustrated by the multifunction push and pull wheel switches and your car is not under warranty the following will enable you to pull the left switch to change down and pull the right switch to change up (the push function is disabled). It works very well and the only reason it is not on my car is it would in all likelyhood void the warranty.

If you don't fancy doing it yourself I have a black multi function wheel which I converted which I will sell for £390 plus postage.

Good luck it's not too difficult if you take your time. 

 

I cannot accept any responsibility if you carry out this process based on these instructions, it is entirely at your own risk. (Sorry to have to state this but we live in strange times)

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL AND RECONFIGURATION OF STEERING WHEEL BUTTONS

These instructions are based on the post by Steve D’Santie on 6speedonline

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/351821-reprograming-multifunction-pdk-buttons-shift-like-paddles.html

1.   Disconnect the battery earth cable.

2.   Remove the airbag, insert a screwdriver with the blade parallel to the axis of the car and push upwards. The airbag should release. If it doesn’t as was the case with my spare wheel and airbag, push the airbag in at the same time as pushing upwards with the screwdriver which enables the spring to move upwards and the airbag will release.

3.   Disconnect the airbag connectors and earth lead (Prize up the orange tabs carefully to release). Then disconnect the orange multiplug to the clock spring.

4.   Put the wheel in the straight ahead position.

5.   With a Torx 55 undo the securing bolt.

6.   Mark the position of the wheel relative to the splines with a permanent marker.

7.   Remove the steering wheel.

8.   Steering wheel removal and strip down is very nicely covered via the YouTube video link below. I would highly recommend you wrap the wheel in tape to prevent bruising scratching of the leather.

 

After this disassembly you will be able to see the three sockets for modification after removing the cowel.

 

9.   Print off the un modified and modified schematics (below).

 

 

 

 

 

 

10.                   Pin identification

Check you have got the orientation of the plug correct relative to the ground wire with a multimeter and probes as shown below. Do this for the two right hand connectors (R1 & R2) and left hand connector. You do not want to get the connector in the wrong orientation relative to the schematic! Mark the ground point from the unmodified schematic with a marker pen.

 

 

11.                   Instructions from Stevie D’Santie for wiring changes https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/351821-reprograming-multifunction-pdk-buttons-shift-like-paddles.html

 

1.    As per modification diagram , remove the #3 wire from connector R2 by first removing the connector from the board (squeezing the release tab first). Then, place a straight pin, the kind you get with a new shirt, in the little hole and under the rectangular latch that holds the wire terminal in the connector. This is best done by first pushing the terminal further into the connector before relieving the latch and pulling the wire out.(I found this the trickiest part of the whole job!) This effectively prevents the down-shift signal from the right/rear button.

2. Remove the #2 wire from same connector R2 (sends up-shift signal from the right up-shift button) and insert it into the vacant #3 spot that you just removed in the previous step. This disables the right/front button while sending up-shift from the right/rear down-shift button to the PDK controller.

3. Remove the #6 wire from the connector R1 and connect it to the end of the wire you removed from R2 #3 in step 1. Use a piece of shrink tubing to keep them connected by shrinking it with with a solder iron. This way the modification may be undone (I also folded a small copy of the modification diagram and stuck it under the harness for future reference). This step re-routs the down-shift signal from the left/rear button directly to the PDK controller.

4. Remove the #8 wire from connector R1 and insulate the terminal with a shrink tube. This disables the left/front button from sending up-shifts. (I am not sure if this is really necessary looking at the modified diagram but taking the wheel apart is quite tricky so I did it in any case)

During the installation of the airbag, there was another catch that I missed that Robertsmania found, causing the horn to always beep when turning on the ignition... There are two small plastic latches illustrated in his step 31 that must be depressing with a screw driver before the fascia can become properly seated

(I think this refers to the next section)

 

 

 

12.                   Re-assemble the wheel

When I re-assembled I thought it would be easy and it is providing you ensure that the steel spring is located on the back of the centre section first as shown in the picture below. If you don't do this properly when you come to mount the airbag back in, it will not locate properly and you will have to take it all apart again!

 

 

 

The wheel can now be re assembled as per the strip down instructions.

 

 

 

13.                   Torque up the centre screw initially to 30Nm then 90 deg according to the manual. Put a bit of Loctite on as well. 

 

 

14.                   Refit the airbag

Make sure you have made the wheel electrical connection to the clockspring!

Connect up the airbag connectors and earth lead and carefully push the airbag (Porsche logo the correct way up) in, until you here a click.

If you didn’t do section 12 properly the outcome here will be disappointing as the airbag will not move backwards and forwards properly when trying to activate the horn. If this is the case you will have to strip it down again and assemble as detailed in section 12.

 

 

15.                   Re connect the battery

 

16.                   PSM warning light and window reset

When the battery is reconnected the PSM light on the dashboard may stay on which means the steering angle sensor will need re-initialising.

 

Solution courtesy of Richard Hamilton

You do occasionally get the PSM failure message after disconnecting the battery or 'clock spring' which also houses the steering angle sensor.  It will disappear if you re-initialse the sensor, and doesn't need a PIWIS:

4560 Steering angle sensor
The steering angle sensor must be re-initialised when the battery is disconnected and connected.
Turn wheels to straight-ahead position.
Switch ignition off and then on again twice.
Start engine.
From the straight-ahead position, turn steering wheel approx. 20° to the right, past the straight-ahead position.
Drive the vehicle straight ahead for at least one second at a speed above 4 km/h (2.5 mph).
The steering angle sensor segment is recognised again in this process.
Once the sensor has been successfully initialised, the fault code that is stored in the fault memory is documented using the fault deletion counter.
The fault memory erases itself automatically.
The PSM indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out

 

You may also have to reset the windows which you do by simply lowering them as far as they will go and then raising them as far as they will go via the window lift button. When the window is at the top of its travel release the button then immediately lift the button again and the window will be set.

 

17.                   THE JOB IS FINISHED

I would suggest this is how it should have left the factory! 

 

[daz05]

That's a heck of a lot of effort for something that still needs replaced anyway. Paddles are the way forward.

[graham964]

I am inclined to agree but it is a fraction of the cost if you have the time and it actually works very well.

[spook]

10 minutes ago, graham964 said:

I am inclined to agree but it is a fraction of the cost if you have the time and it actually works very well.

I considered this mod but eventually dismissed it in favour of a replacement 718 steering wheel. The price difference was worth it to replace the ugly OEM MF wheel.

[Andy Mac]

Thanks @graham964 MF wheel on my 981 drove me mad with these buttons - I found it way too easy to pull the right paddle toward me up for an up change to get a down... 😲 - I’d definitely tackle the above if I got another without the paddle wheel.

[graham964]

I did the same thing Andy and put the post together as a hopefully comprehensive guide for anybody who doesn't want to spend £1k to £1.8k on a new (better) steering wheel if the objective is to simply achieve pull left for down shift and pull right for up shift. 

I incidentally I found a good used SD wheel and 4 stalk unit and freely admit it looks great, isn't an ergonomic disaster and doesn't mess up the warranty, however even using the most advanced man maths it was a lot of money for a small benefit over a modded MF wheel which only costs time and would have been my solution if I didn't have a warranty.