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Brake light switch


Natplant

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Has anyone else had issues with brake light switch? Went for MOT today, tester said no brake lights, I’ve fitted another switch car passed ok, but that was my third switch in 2 years, am I doing something wrong? It appears heavy braking causes the piston to stick in, a little wiggle and it pops out again 

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I've had some problems with mine, one of them seemed to die on me, the other one was interesting - twice the brake lights have been constantly on, once during the MOT - got it home, and fixed it and second time this happened a few weeks ago, I just played around with it in the garage and its working OK now. 

 

Got the part from ECP if that means anything lol.

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14 hours ago, Natplant said:

Has anyone else had issues with brake light switch? Went for MOT today, tester said no brake lights, I’ve fitted another switch car passed ok, but that was my third switch in 2 years, am I doing something wrong? It appears heavy braking causes the piston to stick in, a little wiggle and it pops out again 

I've had 4 in the last 9 years. I've tried expensive ones, I've tried cheap ones. They're all the same...rubbish!!!

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10 hours ago, Natplant said:

I can’t see how it could be adjustable, it fits in bayonet style, push in and twist, I can’t be that heavy footed 😂

I removed mine recently, it looked as though you can adjust the plunger by pressing down, or pulling it and you will feel it clicking. 

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3 minutes ago, Jim b said:

I removed mine recently, it looked as though you can adjust the plunger by pressing down, or pulling it and you will feel it clicking. 

I wonder if it has to be set a required length before fitting, the teeth have gone on the last one I had, as it pushed in with no force at all. If it was set too long when I fitted it, 

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1 hour ago, TROOPER88 said:

Chaps

The problem you are all having is not the brake light switch but the brake master cylinder linkage being poorly adjusted.

Is it just a matter of adjusting near the battery in the frunk? 

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9 hours ago, Natplant said:

Is it just a matter of adjusting near the battery in the frunk? 

It is not that easy tbh to get it 'just right' and is not a 5 minute job.

You will need to remove the master cylinder from the servo to enable you to spin the complete servo on the threaded adjuster.

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4 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

Yes, for sure.

The very early 986’s had lots of problems with the boosters, they would literally fill with water 😄

Mines a 98 2.5, will have been changed at some point, will fit new switch for now, then when a renew all the brake pipes over winter I can disconnect the master cylinder etc and adjust, is there a measurement as to where it needs adjusting or is it Visual

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